Rebuilder of Wohlhaupter boring heads.

partsproduction · Jun 12, 2014

I'll try again. In an old thread about Wohlhaupter boring and facing heads a guy named "Tony" was mentioned with a dead link. I've searched all over the internet for more information on who the guy is, or was. The original thread was from about 2007.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/wohlhaupter-shank-removal-145029/
When I click on it it goes to ebay, but not to a specific seller named Tony.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
parts

Pete F · Jun 12, 2014

What's wrong with it?

If you want to have a look yourself, this was recently posted on a local forum. It's for a UPA-4 and the smaller heads are different. But it may help. He did a great job documenting it anyway.
Woodwork Forums

partsproduction · Jun 13, 2014

Thanks Pete. It needs to be reground over most of the outside surfaces. Like most B&F heads this one hasn't seen much use, but it was put away in cosmoline that wore off in spots, the resulting rust has pitted it. If I was confident that I could get it back together I might try to grind it or send it out.
The woodworker forum is members only, so I joined the forum to see what you are pointing out, but will have to wait to be approved.

If the thread you pointed to gives me confidence to take mine apart Then I'll have the grinding shop I use a lot have a go at it. But it is amazing how many small parts there are in them! I wouldn't have it ground without being able to make positive sure that all grit is out.

Pete F · Jun 13, 2014

Surely that's just cosmetic though right? I wouldn't have that head ground if it's just cosmetic, the grit and crap would go in everywhere. Some of the parts are pretty weeny and very precise. If it were me I'd just deal with it and move on. It sure is a shame about rust and i feel for you, I've had some awesome tools "tattooed" be the rust devil. But sometimes the "fix" is worse than the problem and I've seem some idiotic solutions to precision surfaces just to get rid of some rust (not that I'm suggesting grinding it is idiotic BTW).

Yeah sorry about the link, I was afraid it may do that. Some other Aussies here may be able to post the pdf here, and credit the original author.

Edit: oh I just realised, if you PM me your email I may be able to send it to you. It's under 1 MB in size. I just need to shake my butt and do some work, but will get it to you as soon as I'm finished.

partsproduction · Jun 13, 2014

Thanks again Pete, I don't know if I have it because you sent it to me or if my membership came through, but yes, that woodworker site thread looks like a thorough overview of rebuilding the UPA4-6 heads. As for whether or not to do more for this head or not, it just bugs me to see a little rust on an otherwise nearly new head that someone thought they were protecting with cosmoline. And of course the rust pitting is too deep to card away with a fine wire wheel. I could never afford to buy one of these new, and it's not too far from it besides the pitting. I got it plus a Jacobs 18N ball bearing super chuck (With a very light haze of rustthat a fine wire wheel can fix) that also looks new, all of it for $350. My collection now has a Gamet, Mizoguchi, Narex and finally, a Wohlhaupter! (grin)
parts

Pete F · Jun 13, 2014

Pitting is painful, and I hear you as I'm Mr Anal himself, but my 2 cents worth? If you want something to hang on your shelf and show you mates when they come over, by all means have it ground, but don't ever consider using it again as I'd expect the likelihood of being able to keep all that grinding crap out of it would be just about zero. I had my UPA-3 apart yesterday and can testify first hand that the parts are many, weeny, and fit real well. Put it this way, if this were a nice watch and you found it in similar condition, would you also consider grinding it? It will make a fine wall ornament.

If, on the other hand, like me you enjoy USING the absolute best you can lay your hands on, then just wire brush the loose rust off, maybe try some steel wool, and put the pitting down to "shit happens" sometimes. We may not like it, but that's life! I've just began using my UPA-3 and it's really nice to use.

Anyway that my 2 cents for what it's worth. I have some beautiful Aciera parts, including part of the machine itself, that became heavily pitted in transport. I could have cried (in fact I may have), and it was all I could do to resist just "cleaning it up a bit". But they were precision ground surfaces and there's a time to know when to leave things alone. I got off what I could, but the pitting below the ground surface is there as a permanent reminder that sometimes shit just happens.

partsproduction · Jun 13, 2014

Thanks again for the rebuilding PDF, it has been printed and I hope to put it in a folder. The reason I wanted to know how to take it apart and back together is exactly that reason, I expect to assemble the slide with the gib and short "Grub screws" (as they say in Australia) to lock it together without any guts in it, then after grinding wash it thoroughly, dry the parts, grease/oil and assemble again. From the PDF it doesn't look that daunting. The ONLY reason for taking it apart is to wash away all grit afterwards.

I hadn't thought of showing it off, as I'm the only collector of B&F heads I know or even know of. My tools are all considered to be useful in my trade, you see, though a modest enterprise I did found the company almost 30 years ago.

Thanks again, you are one of the reasons I visit this forum, and it really is a rich forum. None of us knows even 1/10th of everything there is to know about the machine shop, and recognizing that opens the doors to discovery.
parts

Pete F · Jun 13, 2014

Nick Mueller here has ground at least one shank of a Wohlhaupter, hopefully he will chime in with some advice on what he things your chances of getting the thing working again having ground the body. Working on the shanks is easier as at least you can protect the body somewhat by taping and wrapping it up. But if you're grinding the body, you won't have that option. I didn't take mine completely apart, but I think even if you take it down as far as that shown in the pdf, there's still a lot of parts left inside. I may however be mistaken in that, if you can make it "gutless" that's another story.

Another thing to consider is if you grind the flat parts of the body to clean them up you will lose the laser engraved Manufacturer, model, serial number, and shank designation so it will just be a vanilla head. Hey that's a good band name!

Lumberjack · Jun 13, 2014

There is nothing much magical about taking it apart to the level where you can seal it for grinding. But I recommed you seal it cause no1 it will be awkward getting all grease out and with that also hard to wash it clean. You`ll see when you take it apart, it`s rather straightforward.
But I would rather say that, as with most old stuff, don`t mess it up by grinding it. Its part of the patina and if it doesn`t affect function just clean it up and polish of gently, esp if it`s not gonna be for mainly showoff but rather work. Don`t fix what`s working.
If it does affect function and you want it restored to function as new you send it in to Home
They don`t like selling spares but they will restore it for you. Unless you`re able to make parts and work needed to required level of work.

partsproduction · Jun 13, 2014

Lumberjack, I had considered sending it back, but the shipping costs killed the idea. I thought instead of engraving all the original stuff in the CNC mill or the FADAL. I really don't need the markings though and there are plenty of pristine B&S heads as examples for posterity.

I really should contact Wohlhaupter though and get an idea of the costs involved.

Pete F · Jun 14, 2014

Got a pic of the carnage BTW Parts? I'd be interested to see how bad the damage is.

gernoff · Jul 21, 2015

UPA4 Rebuild PDF

Hello everyone.

I would like to get a copy of the Wohlhaupter Rebuild PDF.

p.s. Shank Removal: I have a UPA5 s6, I understand the hex at the bottom of the shank is a differential screw setup. I assume it is a CCW rotation for removal? So far mine will not budge. Before I get more serious, I thought I'd verify direction etc. Next I'll apply a little heat.

Thanks for the help.

Erik Green

Pete F · Jul 21, 2015

Eric not all Wohlhaupters have removable shanks, but it sounds as if yours is. Yes both the shank thread and the shank's thread are conventional RH threads. However they are different pitches, so the locking screw will allow the head to be run in reverse without it unlocking.

gi_984 · Aug 8, 2019

Hi,
I too would like a pdf of the rebuild document. I just found this thread while searching for a manual for my new (to me) UPA4 boring head.
Mine came out of an old shop that had been shut down for some time. Roof leaked onto a rack of tooling. To include the Wohlhaupter head. Looks like it is mostly superficial. But it needs to be taken apart and cleaned regardless.

thanks!

gi_984 · Aug 22, 2019

Thanks to Glenn (aka partsproduction), I got a copy. Thanks!

partsproduction · Aug 23, 2019

Post #2, by Pete, also has a working URL, but you have to join the woodworking forum to get it. I'm not a woodworker, but some of the things some of those guys do is amazing even to a machinist.

bsg · Aug 23, 2019

gi_984 said:
Thanks to Glenn (aka partsproduction), I got a copy. Thanks!

partsproduction said:
Post #2, by Pete, also has a working URL, but you have to join the woodworking forum to get it. I'm not a woodworker, but some of the things some of those guys do is amazing even to a machinist.

Glenn, is it possible to get a copy of the rebuild instructions?
I took my UPA3 apart to machine the shank down, would like to know the proper way to put it back together! :willy_nilly:

Thanks......

Kevin

bsg · Feb 6, 2020

bsg said:
Glenn, is it possible to get a copy of the rebuild instructions?
I took my UPA3 apart to machine the shank down, would like to know the proper way to put it back together!

Thanks......

Kevin

I hate to keep bringing this back up, does anyone have a copy of the rebuild instructions for a UPA3?
I was able to make a holder to machine the shank down, now that's completed, I would like to put it back together?

Thanks for any help,

Kevin

jariou · Feb 6, 2020

Hi Kevin,

I was able to download the PDF of the rebuild of a UPA4 from the link in post #2 here. If you want it, let me know, I'll find a way to send it to you tonight.

As for instructions on the UPA3, I wouldn't mind either. I got one on eBay maybe 8 or 9 months ago but it is in rough shape and some external parts do not seem to work as they are supposed to. So I put that aside and figured I'll get to it eventually.

Not long after that, I saw a Kuroda for $100 less on eBay too. That's a Japanese "copy" of a Wohlhaupter UPA3. All was working ok but not as smooth as it could be. I took it all apart and cleaned everything. It's ready to be put back together and I'm pretty sure I remember where all the 70 or so pieces go!

Once I am done with the Kuroda, I will feel bold and brave and ready to dive in the Wohlhaupter!

Jacques

bsg · Feb 6, 2020

jariou said:
Hi Kevin,

I was able to download the PDF of the rebuild of a UPA4 from the link in post #2 here. If you want it, let me know, I'll find a way to send it to you tonight.

As for instructions on the UPA3, I wouldn't mind either. I got one on eBay maybe 8 or 9 months ago but it is in rough shape and some external parts do not seem to work as they are supposed to. So I put that aside and figured I'll get to it eventually.

Not long after that, I saw a Kuroda for $100 less on eBay too. That's a Japanese "copy" of a Wohlhaupter UPA3. All was working ok but not as smooth as it could be. I took it all apart and cleaned everything. It's ready to be put back together and I'm pretty sure I remember where all the 70 or so pieces go!

Once I am done with the Kuroda, I will feel bold and brave and ready to dive in the Wohlhaupter!

Jacques

Hello Jacques,

That would be great!
Do you still have my email address, I can send you a PM if you don't?

Thanks again!

Kevin

Rebuilder of Wohlhaupter boring heads.

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