What's new
What's new

Reccomend a shop coat, please.

  • Thread starter Guest
  • Start date
  • Replies 38
  • Views 5,556
G

Guest

Guest
I use a manual mill with an indexing head to put the hex on a series of custom bolts that repeats a couple times a year. It creates needle like swarf that turns me into a human porcupine with my choice of hoodie or jacket. I would like a knee length type lab coat they would not stick in and won't be way too hot in summer. Is there such a thing? Looking on McMaster I didn't see any that say "Repels metal shavings with a breathable fabric."

If I had a quiet compressor I would probably just use a couple air blow nozzles to direct the chips away from me, but I have a twin head Ingersoll-Rand that sounds like a big block Chevy with a rod knock you can hear 1/4 mile away. I want to listen to that thing as little as possible.
 
Have a long chat with the boss about putting some HEAT into the shop....:D

They make arm protective sleeving, comes in a roll.
 
Have a long chat with the boss about putting some HEAT into the shop....:D

They make arm protective sleeving, comes in a roll.

They stick on more than the sleeves. I am running a 3/8" end mill at 4,000 RPM, those chips shoot up to 4 feet away in all directions. I actually have some of those sleeves.
 
I use an old school leather apron in my shop. Knee length, not too hot in summer, swarf doesn't seem to want to stick to it. I use the belly vice a lot and it helps protect anything under it in winter.
 
4,000RPM on a manual mill with no coolant or enclosures? Santa Maria!

The mills actually last a long time, the parts are 4140 annealed, hexes are 3/4" to 1-1/8" and I am doing about .060 doc. Side milling both directions. They take about 45 seconds each including loading and unloading. The widths of the hexes run 3/8" to 1/2".
 
I buy Red Kap uniforms, including shop coats, through Automotiveworkwear.com

Swarf brushes right off the standard shop coat, but 100% cotton will be cooler in the summer.
 
I use an old school leather apron in my shop. Knee length, not too hot in summer, swarf doesn't seem to want to stick to it. I use the belly vice a lot and it helps protect anything under it in winter.

I have two bad shoulders and certain movements are either impossible or painful. I don't think I could reach back and to grab the apron strings to tie them.
 
Maybe use a shop vac to vacuum them away?

I thought of that, but the best configuration of my set-up and how the chips fly in all directions I think I would need a shop vac with the world's largest diameter hose.
 
I have a friend that is a butcher and he gave me a stack of old butcher coats. They are white so they get dirty pretty easy but that's what they are there for
 
I buy Red Kap uniforms, including shop coats, through Automotiveworkwear.com

Swarf brushes right off the standard shop coat, but 100% cotton will be cooler in the summer.

Thanks, I will check those out.
 
I hate shop coats but if I have to, those white paper suits are light and cheap to throw away. They hold up to chips better than you would think.

I hate shop coats also. The throw away thing is an idea. I probably spend two dozen or so working days a year getting sprayed with chips so it would not be too expensive.
 
It creates needle like swarf that turns me into a human porcupine with my choice of hoodie or jacket.

Use a shield. In my keep clean moments I pick up a rubber dust pan and hold it at a safe distance.
I use clear Mylar sheets held by magnets behind my lathes.
The chips from a manual mill will fly in different direction depending on direction. I switch positions when I want to stay clean.

Only use a coat when I'm painting in a booth. Never cared for shop coats with pockets.
 
I wore those Tyvek suits when I was fiberglassing my boat. Those things don't breathe, and they get hot as hell.

I use the blue shop coats from McMaster, but they can be hot in the summertime too. I haven't found any clothing that is good at repelling chips that doesn't also trap body heat...
 
Use a shield. In my keep clean moments I pick up a rubber dust pan and hold it at a safe distance.

Any shield will interfere with running them as fast as I can. I cannot use the power feed stops at the feed rate I am running. I do about 700 bolt heads every 3 months. If it was a couple dozen here and there I wouldn't mind going a lot slower.
 
I wore those Tyvek suits when I was fiberglassing my boat. Those things don't breathe, and they get hot as hell.

I use the blue shop coats from McMaster, but they can be hot in the summertime too. I haven't found any clothing that is good at repelling chips that doesn't also trap body heat...

If you don't mind, which ones. McMaster has a lot of choices.
 
Any shield will interfere with running them as fast as I can. I cannot use the power feed stops at the feed rate I am running. I do about 700 bolt heads every 3 months. If it was a couple dozen here and there I wouldn't mind going a lot slower.

Put up a cardboard barrier that is standing straight up with 2x4's. You can move it when the cutter changes direction. All the junk hits the board and not you.
 








 
Back
Top