Recommendations for LED light bulbs for shop lighting

I have just finished replacing all of the old incandescent-style light bulbs in my home shop, for the second time. (Several years ago, when there were price subsidies for the compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFL), it was cheap for me to change from the old incandescent lamps.) Now, I have installed the new LED light bulbs, which are even more energy efficient and longer lasting than the CFLs.

Even though most commercial shops use other larger light fixtures than a home shop, you still might have individual lamps for task lighting on each machine. The new LED light bulbs are great for those, because (unlike incandescent lamps) they are insensitive to vibrations and shock.

Anyway, I tried a bunch of different brands of LED light bulbs, and I have found two favorites, which I prefer over other brands.

The first is CREE brand, 60W replacement, dimmable, in soft white color, which is available in a 6-pack from Home Depot. Here is a currently working link: Cree 60W Equivalent Soft White (2700K) A19 Dimmable LED Light Bulb (6-Pack)-BA19-08027OMF-12DE26-2U100 at The Home Depot

The second is the FEIT, 40W replacement (using 7.5W), which is available in a 3-pack, from Amazon.com: Amazon.com: Feit 7.5 Watt A19 Dimmable LED Light Bulbs 3-Pack (equiv to 40 watts): Health & Personal Care

I like the "dimmable" LED lights because their circuits do not delay turning on the light. Also, I personally prefer working under lighting that is the color of "warm" white or "soft" white bulbs.

If anybody else has different recommendations, please share.

I've been picking up the "20 LED sewing machine lamps" as a small machine task light (Amazon and ebay, seem to be the same product sold thru different outlets, 10LED is also available). Nice magnet base and seem reasonably tough so far. I have them on a horizontal bandsaw, radial drill, and Bridgeport so far, with more likely in the future.

Not sure if or when LED lights which match the performance of something like a T5HO tubular bulb at a price I can get without a 2nd mortgage but I will be interested in those at that time.

oeo has LED metal halide replacement bulbs. I have some of their big lights flourescent MH replacements. They work good but are not as bright as a MH bulb.

OEO ?EZ LED? | oeo.com

I recently noticed that Home Depot now sells 75-Watt and 100-Watt equivalent LED bulbs, and I have ordered some.

I think that the prices are reasonable, considering that each bulb is expected to last more than 20 years. Maybe the prices will continue to drop, but here is what they are now:

Equivalent light bulb wattage Actual LED wattage current price, comments
40W (500 lumens) 7.5W $6.58 each, sold in 3-pack from Amazon.com, made by FEIT (warm white, dimmable)
60W (800 lumens) 9.5W $9.47 each, sold in 6-pack from Home Depot, made by Cree (soft white, dimmable)
75W (1100 lumens) 13.5W $14.97 each, sold in 6-pack from Home Depot, made by Cree (soft white, dimmable)
100W (1600 lumens) 18W $18.97 each, sold in 5-pack from Home Depot, made by Cree (soft white, dimmable)

For me, these are especially easy and convenient because I already have many lamp fixtures at home and on my machines, which use the traditional screw-in (Edison style A19) bulbs.

Home Depot has periodic sales at which they are selling the 60 watt equivalents for about 5 bucks a pop, which is pretty good. Sometimes Cree, sometimes, Philips, sometimes both. Usually only the 60's, at least so far.

The one problem I've had is that although they are dimmable, some of the newer dimmers flicker when they're turned full-on. Oddly, they don't flicker when dimmed, and not all dimmers do it, including older dimmers that supposedly aren't compatible. Keep the receipts for dimmers.

Watch out for the Feit stuff. The CFLs from Feit were borderline unsafe, IMO.... they would fail by shooting fire and molten particles out. Several melted holes in the glass tube, or shot burning material out of the case after it partly meltrd and distorted.
I'm surprised they got UL.... but it may be chinese UL.... I'm pretty sure the chinese UL is nothing like US UL in terms of the testing.

An LED is not a CFL, so they may be different, but if a company cheaps out in one case, they are likely to do it again. The Cree product should be OK.

matt_isserstedt said:

I've been picking up the "20 LED sewing machine lamps" as a small machine task light (Amazon and ebay, seem to be the same product sold thru different outlets, 10LED is also available). Nice magnet base and seem reasonably tough so far. I have them on a horizontal bandsaw, radial drill, and Bridgeport so far, with more likely in the future.

Not sure if or when LED lights which match the performance of something like a T5HO tubular bulb at a price I can get without a 2nd mortgage but I will be interested in those at that time.

Click to expand...

You might find that they are already as efficient.

The T5HO fluorescent tube from GE gives 4800 lumens for 47 watts, for 102 lumens per watt.

The CREE 60 watt equivalent LED bulb gives 800 lumens for 9.5 watts, for 84 lumens per watt.

But here's the catch. Lumens is a measure of all light generated by a source. The tube generally is in a holder where as much as 40% of the light is blocked by the fixture. Reflectors do a decent job of redirecting some of that light, but you still lose a sizable percentage. A polished steel reflector helps but will still lose a sizable portion of the light. A white reflector will lose a lot of light.

What I'm pointing out is that that this specific LED light is likely to be equal in usable light per watt due to the losses of the fluorescent fixture.

Dan

dbsuthe said:

The T5HO fluorescent tube from GE gives 4800 lumens for 47 watts, for 102 lumens per watt.

The CREE 60 watt equivalent LED bulb gives 800 lumens for 9.5 watts, for 84 lumens per watt.

Click to expand...

Dan, your point is well-taken. I think the ability to "bulk light" isn't quite there with the LEDs. For example I can get a 4 bulb T5HO fixture for about $115 on Amazon last I checked, free ship and bulbs included. Suppose I had 50% loss in the fluorescents for 2400 actual lumens, and I'd need 3 LEDs per tube to keep up with that, so 12 LEDs total. Just a lot more wiring, cost of boxes, screw-in fixtures, rather than 1 connection and go. Realizing I could go up to the 100W equivalent, but still ~6 bulbs to setup and wire.

That said I've seen LED street lights, so bigger bulbs are potentially out there.

I like those new Cree LEDS that look like regular​ incandescent bulbs, I've bought a few at Home Depot to test out and they work great, I prefer the daylight type myself. What I really like is they are produced in the USA!!!! Where are the Feit bulbs made?

I believe standard four foot flourscent bulbs are still the best light for the money. The LED tubes cost 3 or 4 times as much to buy for less light. They do not last nearly as long as advertised. I think everyone has had a led fail. So they do not last 10 years. You are money ahead just to keep changing out the tubes.
Ki8nda like the people who trade in a Hummer for a Prius and think they are saving energy. In fact they use more energy to make the new car then extra the old one will use in it's remaining lifetime. Not sur e how that applies to the energy use to haul around tons of batteries in all electric car.
I suppose it is like solar cells they have been saying, for the last forty years or more, wait a few years until the efficiency is better.
Bill D.

PS: Put the money you save by not building a LED or solar system in a mutual fund, and the proceeds will more then pay the energy bills.

Bill D said:

I believe standard four foot flourscent bulbs are still the best light for the money. The LED tubes cost 3 or 4 times as much to buy for less light. They do not last nearly as long as advertised. I think everyone has had a led fail. So they do not last 10 years. You are money ahead just to keep changing out the tubes.
Ki8nda like the people who trade in a Hummer for a Prius and think they are saving energy. In fact they use more energy to make the new car then extra the old one will use in it's remaining lifetime. Not sur e how that applies to the energy use to haul around tons of batteries in all electric car.
I suppose it is like solar cells they have been saying, for the last forty years or more, wait a few years until the efficiency is better.
Bill D.

PS: Put the money you save by not building a LED or solar system in a mutual fund, and the proceeds will more then pay the energy bills.

Click to expand...

The new Cree bulbs carry a 10 year warranty. I've outfitted my whole house with them and they are outstanding. That said I didn't pay full retail.

Here is a pic of where many of my LED bulbs have gone.

If I had been given a chance to test out the bulbs in advance, I think would have bought Cree exclusively.

-Jon

Bill D said:

I believe standard four foot florescent bulbs are still the best light for the money. The LED tubes cost 3 or 4 times as much to buy for less light. They do not last nearly as long as advertised. I think everyone has had a led fail. So they do not last 10 years. You are money ahead just to keep changing out the tubes.
Ki8nda like the people who trade in a Hummer for a Prius and think they are saving energy. In fact they use more energy to make the new car then extra the old one will use in it's remaining lifetime. Not sur e how that applies to the energy use to haul around tons of batteries in all electric car.
I suppose it is like solar cells they have been saying, for the last forty years or more, wait a few years until the efficiency is better.
Bill D.

PS: Put the money you save by not building a LED or solar system in a mutual fund, and the proceeds will more then pay the energy bills.

Click to expand...

That's a real interesting take on things. It makes several assumptions, many of which I find lacking...

First is that the "standard" fluorescent tubes cost less than I pay for them (upward of $4 each) or that the CREE LED bulbs cost more than I'm paying for them (less than $10 each). Then there is the cost of the ballast in a fluorescent fixture VS a simple A19 socket or 4 bulb light bar. It cost less to install LED A19 bulbs in my kitchen than it would have cost to install new fluorescent fixtures and tubes.

Second is that the LED lights are failing often. That's not been the case for the people I've talked to, nor has it been my experience. Cheap fluorescent fixtures, on the other hand last a year or two. So do cheap fluorescent tubes.

Third, I really like the idea that I can pay for my energy by putting the cost of a $10 LED in a mutual fund. Can I have the name of your broker? He's MUCH smarter than mine.

Lastly, and a bit off topic, is the whole argument about saving energy by continuing to drive a Hummer VS getting a Prius. The math on it only works if you assume that you were never, ever, ever going to sell the Hummer. Once you admit that you were eventually going to replace it, then the energy cost of building it becomes irrelevant. The ongoing cost of driving it, on the other hand, is always relevant. I used about 2893 gallons in the last 12 years ( 136K miles ). A hummer would have used 13,600 gallons according to Car and Driver. BTW... I'm still on original battery, brakes, engine, etc.

The florescent light is OK, but I have never had quiet, care free, long life service from them. Therefore the quest for a better alternative continues.

what about this?

Round 24W 8LED Work Light Spot Beam Lamp for Car Driving Jeep Offroad Truck

No idea if Lowes still has 'em, but I replaced all the reflector bulbs in my basement ceiling fixtures with Utilitech Pro 800 lumen LEDs. 60W equiv. Part #0352216. Dimmable. 3000K. At the time I paid $11.98 for 'em. They're not reflector style bulbs, but do an excellent job anyway. Out of the 7 I bought, 1 failed quickly and was replaced for free. They've been doing fine for the better part of a year. I spend a lot of time down there and going from 450 watts, to 78 watts total has to be good for something.

thermite said:

The right sort of place to look, but not in my plan at 27 bucks.

Instead - I'm looking at the core arrays. The ones meant for lower voltages yet, even. As in, handheld lights, onboard-battery expected.
Eg: -similar to the blue bar of soap shaped ones that HF sells for what? 3 bucks on sale, 4 bucks otherwise? 24 LEDS in the flatside array.

Then ...series and parallel onto a 12 VDC 'bus' instead of local batteries or solid-state PSU.

Fixtures? Well.. that's the reason I'm not chasing 120 V units.

The LEDS are rugged. If there is no complex solid-state power supply and no voltage anywhere above Class 2, the 'fixture' doesn't need to provide ANY protection for things not even present, and not a whole lot more than 'nothing' for what IS there.

Click to expand...

May I recommend that you do a bit more research before you start to build anything? The average white LED is more durable than a light bub or tube, but it is still subject to damage from over-volatge, heat and impact. Many white LEDs have a "lens" over the solid state component, and that lens can be knocked off.

The power supply needs to be well regulated in order to avoid over driving the LED. A simple battery that floats from 11.5 to 14 volts will not provide consistent light output and may even burn out the LEDs early.

While it's possible to do the serial + parallel 12 volt design, the LEDs need to be closely matched and checked as they age. One LED that is more efficient than the others can cause it to over drive and burn out in a fairly short time. LEDs are known to get more efficient as they burn in. A batch of cheap LEDs will not necessarily be matched in any way.

I've read that heat from incandescent lighting is much less cost effective than gas or heat pump. Worth looking into.

In short, LEDs thrive on a good power supply in a properly designed fixture. The often work for many hours on a makeshift installation. Some even go months before they break down. Well designed fixtures should last for many, many years.

Good luck on the project.

Dan

About 6 months back I built a prototype LED 2'x2' troffer for my shop based on a Cree app note and some Cree 10W emitters. My local seven-eleven upgraded to LED's using 2x2 troffers, I was blown away by the intensity and quality of the light, and decided to try and duplicate what they had done. Best I can tell with my ebay lux meter my prototype has the same light output. The big issues is dissipating the heat, led's don't like heat. The heat is what limits their life as the lux drops off with age. Keep them cool and the lux will not drop off as much. The second problem is the power supply. LED's need to be driven with a constant current source not a voltage like a normal light bulb. In my case the emitters are driven at 370 to 400 mA each and require around 37 volts depending on the junction temp. To get any kind of acceptable efficiency you need to drive them with a constant current switching mode power supply from the mains. While the emitters were not all that expensive, the 2' x2' x .093 aluminum mounting plate (ie heat sink) and the power supply are blowing the cost through the roof.

Almost all 6 of my dual 8' T12 fixtures are dead so I need to do something. Upgrading to T8 is the most cost effective solution at about 10% of what LED's would run. The efficiency is about the same about 95 to 110 lm/W. Really the only advantage to the LED's is the low operating temperature capability and instant full light output. LED's do have the cool status factor.



I believe the seven-eleven units are 3850 to 4700 lumens depending on which power supply you order and run around $235 to $300 each. Figured I need 10 to 12 of them so the cost is quite high.

One really has to watch for the snake oil with LED light output claims.

Craig

Thermite said:

The firing range is live.

Click to expand...

All good ideas.. I'd drop the current limiting resistor and use a proper current source, much more efficient.. less heat. You can get them with pwm dimming as well.

100 watt led modules give out around 9000 lumens, ( about 3x times what a 3' fluro gives. ) That's around 90 lumens/watt

Ray

Thermite, I like your approach.

I am off-grid, solar cells, batteries, inverter for 120VAC. In sunny weather I can run small lathe or DP at shop on the solar system, otherwise (and for the many years before I built it), I have engine/gensets.

Lighting in house is all LED, and all 12VDC, because the inverter is not 100% efficient (lighting in shop is all incandescent, because if genset is running I do not have to save power).

My favorite LED bulbs are MR-16 type that I find on DHgate or T-Mart, and use in thrift-store hi-intensity lights made for MR-16 halogen bulbs. Bypass the 120VACto 12VAC transformer, alter the plug to my 12VDC standard, and turn it on. I have also made ceiling downlight fixtures out of tin cans, with a hole for the MR-16 chassis-punched in bottom, and a 50cent rocker switch on the side, or thumb-wheel switch in cord.

When I first started this, I tried buying loose high-output LED's, like 10000mcd units from Jameco, series-parallelling them in homemade wooden "circuitboards" with copper foil glued to them, to take the 12VDC, and I found what an earlier poster warned, that their characteristics vary enough that some will (I guess) overheat and fail. I have not found "proper" LED drivers (power supplies) for small numbers of LED's at attractive prices .

That 12V worklight linked to earlier looks very nice, but still a bit pricey. For n the hoiuse I prefer around 2700-3000K color temp...in shop it would not matter.

The physical size of the resistor depends on how much power it's dissipating. If the voltage is close to the value needed by the LED then the power it dissipates is small. If there is a large disparity the resistor may need to be much bigger.

Your typical modern 5mm white LED needs a voltage around 3.6 volts in order to run at the designed current of 20 milliamp. Exceeding the voltage by 1/2 volt may cause the LED to use 4 times the power and have a lifetime of months. Specifications at 5mm LED - Frosted White 70 Degree Viewing Angle.

Here's where it gets tricky. LEDs use no power until the voltage reaches a threshold, then dramatically more power as the voltage incrementally increases. If you use 24 LEDs in parallel and a constant current supply then the supply will be set to 3.6 volts at .48 amps. If a couple of LEDs are significantly more efficient (lower forward voltage, AKA lower Vf) you end up with them being over driven and they will burn out early. Now you have 22 LEDs and the power supply is still trying to make them use .48 amps so it ups the voltage. The LEDs are only rated to handle a MAX of 4 volts. Pretty soon you lose a lot of them.

I'm not saying that it's difficult to manage, nor that it's that expensive. It just needs to be designed. CraigS is doing it right, but he might want to look at other heat sinking possibilities. A flat 2x2 plate is not the best way to dissipate heat. Surface area near the LED is your friend. Under-driving them also helps in several ways. The lumens drop a little when you run at or below the "designed current" but the life is extended, the tint of the light is more consistent and the heat is reduced.

Dan