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removable anchors

cleaner72

Plastic
Joined
Apr 26, 2018
I am wanting to install a tirechanger for my motorcycle tires in my garage, but I would like to be able to remove it when not in use and not have bolts sticking up from the concrete as well...is this possible? if so what kind of anchors would I be looking for?
 
I am wanting to install a tirechanger for my motorcycle tires in my garage, but I would like to be able to remove it when not in use and not have bolts sticking up from the concrete as well...is this possible? if so what kind of anchors would I be looking for?

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cleaner72 --

The classic internally-threaded concrete anchor fitting a hole drilled in cured concrete is the "Drop-in" anchor, and almost every big-box store, hardware store, or lumber yard stocks them. There are two basic varieties of Drop-in anchors, one with a top-surface flange that ends up very nearly flush with the concrete surface, and another without the flange. The flangeless Drop-in can be set deeper into the concrete, which increases pull-out strength if the anchor is properly set (which means the expansion wedge is fully driven into the body of the anchor) and the surface of the hole is cleaned thoroughly after drilling. On the other hand, the flanged Drop-in typically butts against the bottom surface of whatever is being bolted-down, and thus has nowhere to slip to if it's not fully expanded, or set into a dirty hole.

Here's a link to one maker's catalog page: Wej-It | Drop-In/Mini Drop-In Anchors

There are a couple other designs of internally-threaded concrete anchors, but I've not used them enough to comment.

John
 
Visit a commercial hardware supply. .

There are what looks like lag bolts to drop in anchors and everything between.

Maybe make a fixture plate that other things use

Drop ins are safest as no trip hazards and of the drop ins the ones that use a punch to set the wedge are likely best option but bolt length limited and need yo blow dirt out


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Or if using ''ordinary'' anchors, drill the hole deep enough, right through the slab even, so when you're done you can punch them down and out of sight.
 
Or if using ''ordinary'' anchors, drill the hole deep enough, right through the slab even, so when you're done you can punch them down and out of sight.
That allows moisture in...Do not do this.

Just fill in with concrete or leave in place when no longer needed.

Common in communications to leave anchors in place when abandoned and can be filled in later if needed.

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I set machine screw threaded drop in anchors below the surface of the floor, and turned big flathead stainless screws the diameter of the hole in the concrete that can be adjusted flat with the floor.
 
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John thank you.....that was the information I needed. I have very little experience in this, and did not want to damage my garage floor. To the other replies, yes I googled, but thought asking those with more experience in concrete anchors might be able to give me a little more insight. Again thank you for the responses.
 
I have used old style lag shields, going back 40 years ago. I found they pretty much always loosen up. Nowadays, I use Hilti epoxy for most of my concrete anchoring. I just wore out my second milwaukee rotohammer, probably drilled 20,000 holes with it before it died. I have set a LOT of anchors. Epoxy is the bomb. Drill the hole, in your case, rent a hilti gun from the rental yard, epoxy in threaded inserts.
In my fab building, I actually inset 1' x 1' x 3/4" plate on an 8' grid, flush in the concrete, each plate has 4 tapped holes that take 1" threads. this is much better than epoxying in an anchor, but a bit hard to do on an existing slab.
 
Ries- what holds the plate into the concrete? Anything other than it just being inset 3/4”?


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Ries- what holds the plate into the concrete? Anything other than it just being inset 3/4”?


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its welded to a grid of 1 1/4" rebar I put in before they poured the slab. which also means that, when welding on bigger projects, a ground wire connected to any given plate is electrically connected to all the other plates- makes it handy for welding, the whole building becomes a welding jig.
 
Drop in anchor set about 1/2" below flush. Remove all-thread or bolt when done. You can fill hole with concrete when you move so it does not show.
Bill D.
 








 
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