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Removing broken HSS tap with Alum/Anodizing question

ripperj

Stainless
Joined
Dec 8, 2015
I broke a 1/4-20 spiral tap in a 6061 piece that I have several hours into. I was going to try Alum and hot water, I have heard this will work without harming the part.
The Alum residue supposedly comes right off, but I wonder if it will affect the color Anodizing later?
Thanks


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I'm in the same situation as ripperj, I bought one of those little seasoning cans of Alum and I'll be trying this out tonight. So ripperj, I'll let you know how it goes within a couple days. Don't know how long it will take to dissolve.
 
I could be wrong (and probably am) but I've a funny feeling that if a chemical will eat steel, (aka the tap) it will eat Alu for brekker
 
I believe its Potassium Sulfate and won’t effect the Aluminum

Generic Default- the research I did says you need to saturate the solution (dump in Alum until it won’t desolve) and use heat (just below boiling)


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Nitric acid is supposed to work, too. I tried it once on a stainless bolt broken off in aluminum. Didn't hurt either one. Then I read that nitric acid doesn't attack stainless.
 
just recently i experimented with potassium sulfate, i had pieces of different steels simmering in a saturated solution for hours. nothing much happened. any thoughts?
 
potassium sulfate is not alum, it is missing aluminum in it, potassium aluminum sulfate, ammonium aluminum sulfate etc. is the required chemical

alum probably oxidizes aluminum part, but can't break down the formed oxide further and there fore cannot continue to react with more pure aluminum (same defensive mechanic protects aluminum to an extent from most other offenders), iron oxides are not as inert, hence the alum being able to do its thing, that being said, if I had to do this on an aluminum part, I'd first do a test on a scrap piece, see how if any effect the heated up alum has on the aluminum, and I might also rig up some sort of container around the broken steel tool on the part, so as not to have to submerge the whole part into the alum solution, you can also apply the necessary heat for the reaction to the part this way, which, depending on the shape of the part might actually be easier than heating alum solution and dipping the part

high concentration nitric acid does work, but it is dangerous to handle and also has some effect on the aluminum, I've successfully dissolved some stainless M2 screws broken off in aluminum part and anodized the part after, some surface prep was needed after the acid prior to anodizing (the surface had some texture to it), AFAIR I used scotchbrite and non-ferrous polish, it anodized to an acceptable finish
 
sorry, potassium aluminum sulfate it was, thats what you get when you ask for alum, right? it sais "kalialaun" on the label, meaning potassium alum. so was it the right chemical and why didnt it work when everybody sais it does?
 
either not good enough degreasing, too little heat or operator patience, or any combination of these :)
 
well, after alum failed, i made a flat with a cabide endmill and drilled through the tap with a carbide drill exactly the size of the hole. i got the threads out with a pic. i consider myself very lucky, thought, as i managed to put the hole exactly on center.
 
Not if you do it right...

those couple times I tried, the carbide would start to cut, but when some steel piece becomes loose in the hole and then lodged into surrounding soft aluminum, and the next carbide flute that comes in contact with that just shatters, I see it might work in some applications, when the tap or drill core is large enough that you can drill through it (like Dian did), but if it is something like a M2 scew of M3 tap, I just don't believe carbide tool has any survival chance there, the only solution there I see is chemical dissolving or edm
 








 
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