Removing and Reusing Tapered Bearing from Lathe Spindle (Clausing 5914 w/ Video) - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmersamm View Post
    What's the required run in time on those bearings. Wondering if it's the same as a new bearing, or simply not required for a used set of bearings.

    Preloading bearings is a constant source of argument. I generally don't really trust the recommended torque values for setting preload. Found them to be totally bogus when it comes to preloading differential bearings for example. A "slight drag" works best. Problem is, my slight drag might not be everybody's slight drag, and so it goes...
    Clausings Instructions for preload below. screen-shot-2018-12-05-10.16.11-am.jpg

  2. #42
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    man thats a lot of work to "save" a trashed bearing. looks obvious in post 9 pic 2.
    a 10X loupe is usually the minimum needed to inspect a precision bearing, but even in the low res unmagnified image it is clearly scored.

  3. #43
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    If you freeze the spindle ,the bearing will drop on........unfortunately a film of frost will form too,and the bearing will trap a film of water ...... ,the bearing will be rusted on good and tight..........so freezing spindles to fit bearings isnt a good idea............and I might add,I dont get concerned about antics obviously aimed at filling out a U tube video......

  4. #44
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    Just thought I'd give a little update on the progress on this machine.

    I've been running the machine for the last 6 months and have been very happy so far. I'm starting to believe that this machine was crashed and that's what caused the spindle to bend, not the way it was transported. The compound gib is damaged from where the compound was forced backward. The gib broke against the adjustment screw. The compound is also not flat. The t slot is literally bent upward and the toolpost doesn't sit flat. I can fit a .002" shim underneath the back edge. I'm going to surface grind or possibly scrape in the compound to get better bearing surface.

    The bed has been leveled and is level within .00025" across the length of the 36" bed. I'm getting .0001-.0002 taper across 8" consistently on the machine (unsupported 2 collar test, 2" aluminum bar, 10" stick out)

    I am experiencing some "stick slip" from the saddle wearing into the hardened ways. Someone was kind enough to come to my place this weekend, blue up the ways and test the saddle. We relieved the middle of the saddle and will scrape/flake it another time. I'm also going to be cutting in oil grooves after the scraping/flaking as well. I'm hoping that improves it.

    The reeves drive had to be rebuilt with new bushings and the coating repaired on the pulley. It works well but is too loud for my liking above 1300RPM. I'm in the process of converting all the drive belts to micro-v belts, retaining the clutch/brake and running an Inverter duty Marathon Black Max TENV motor with a Hitachi WJ200 drive+500W braking resistor. I think this combo will quiet the machine down dramatically, provide infinite adjustability and have plenty of HP/torque (upsizing to 3hp, although I have a 2hp I can use as well).

    screen-shot-2019-07-14-2.25.49-pm.jpg

    screen-shot-2019-07-13-10.24.47-pm.jpg

    screen-shot-2019-07-13-10.24.58-pm.jpg

    screen-shot-2019-07-14-2.13.45-pm.jpg

    screen-shot-2019-07-12-8.49.43-am.jpg

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  6. #45
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    First, I have had the worst luck trying to re-use bearings, I just gave up on that years ago, cant say a bad thing about new bearings.

    I am not trying to be a jerk, I will point out what you "appear" to be trying to do with that "particular lathe" could be a waste of time, already you discovered how crappy the Reeves drive in "that" machine is. For example its not as simple design as Hardinge. Unfortunately the design of the rest of the machine falls short compared to many other similar machines. Its not a bad machine, but a really light machine not known for great tolerances.
    There is a point to where a huge amount of time can be wasted on trying to modify a machine when perhaps just biting the bullet and get the right machine in the first place.
    The Clausing will never be this, absolutely everything you seem to be looking for, glass smooth running to 4000rpms, micrometer dials that feel like micrometers, and much more. Not forgetting Hardinge, and other quality machines.


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