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repairing old outboard lower unit...plain bearing as thrust bearing?

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pontoonvolts

Plastic
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Nov 27, 2020
Hi all. Bear with me, as I'm not an engineer or machinist by trade.

I'm repairing an old (circa 1970's) electric outboard lower unit, specifically replacing the miter gears. The interesting thing is that it contains no needle/ball bearings...it's all plain bearings or bushings. That includes what i'll call the thrust bearing; it is a block of bronze supporting the prop shaft at the front (distal to the prop) and it appears the face of the miter gear on the prop shaft transmits thrust directly to that bronze block (which is a loose press fit into the lower unit itself). Everything runs in a bath of 5W30 oil for lubrication.

Now my issue is that i'll need to shim the miter gear on the prop shaft so that it has the appropriate mounting distance from its mate coming down from the power head, and am at a quandary about what shim material to use. I'm thinking just a normal carbon steel shim would work, but was wondering if it makes more sense to use a softer material (brass? bronze?)to limit wear on the thrust block....

The newer versions of this actually incorporated a needle bearing on each side of the prop shaft miter gear (which makes a lot more sense) but retrofitting that would be beyond my capacities at the moment.

Thanks!
 
I would just use a steel shim washer. You don't want the washer to wear through. I assume the gear is steel and was riding against the bushing anyway, so the steel washer won't be any different. An old trolling motor won't put that much force there anyway.
 
Hi all. Bear with me, as I'm not an engineer or machinist by trade.

I'm repairing an old (circa 1970's) electric outboard lower unit, specifically replacing the miter gears. The interesting thing is that it contains no needle/ball bearings...it's all plain bearings or bushings. That includes what i'll call the thrust bearing; it is a block of bronze supporting the prop shaft at the front (distal to the prop) and it appears the face of the miter gear on the prop shaft transmits thrust directly to that bronze block (which is a loose press fit into the lower unit itself). Everything runs in a bath of 5W30 oil for lubrication.

Now my issue is that i'll need to shim the miter gear on the prop shaft so that it has the appropriate mounting distance from its mate coming down from the power head, and am at a quandary about what shim material to use. I'm thinking just a normal carbon steel shim would work, but was wondering if it makes more sense to use a softer material (brass? bronze?)to limit wear on the thrust block....

The newer versions of this actually incorporated a needle bearing on each side of the prop shaft miter gear (which makes a lot more sense) but retrofitting that would be beyond my capacities at the moment.

Thanks!

What machine tools do you have at your disposal and skills ?
 
What machine tools do you have at your disposal and skills ?

Unfortunately at the moment, no machine tools and very basic skills. If i had access to a lathe it would be fairly easy to modify the bronze thrust block and the plug on the other side to accommodate a pair of 'real' thrust bearings. Perhaps one day....
 
Can you put a spacer on the other side of the bronze block, in between the housing and block? That way you'd keep the same friction pairing as you have currently, just throwing a random washer in there isn't ideal (IMO).
 
This does not answer your question specifically but may help a little. I think if I was building that motor today, I would still prefer bushings and "plain" bearings. If a little water gets into that lower unit, I would much prefer the bushings to needle bearings. Bushings are much more forgiving then needle bearings.
 
This does not answer your question specifically but may help a little. I think if I was building that motor today, I would still prefer bushings and "plain" bearings. If a little water gets into that lower unit, I would much prefer the bushings to needle bearings. Bushings are much more forgiving then needle bearings.

Thanks, that's a great perspective! It's probably why this motor is still around today.
 
Here is the best suggestion I can give you. Take the lower end to a local machine shop and have them make a spacer washer behind the thrust block or perhaps a new thrust block of bronze of the correct dimension to properly fit the gear set. It will not be so expensive and you'll get the job done correctly.
 
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