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Restored 1964 Alzmetall AB4/ST

I had an Alzmetall once. It ran smooth and quiet. Mine was 2MT spindle and min speed 250 rpm, though. That pinched enough so that eventually I sold it.
 
metalmagpie said:
I had an Alzmetall once. It ran smooth and quiet. Mine was 2MT spindle and min speed 250 rpm, though. That pinched enough so that eventually I sold it.
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I had an Alzmetall, AB3ESV something. Pretty similar to the one Milacron sold at his auction last year. IIRC his sold for $10K ish. Mine was thrown away by b-in-law, when I was out of the country. Only drill press I have now is an Oerlikon UB2 radial .
 
Spud said:
That wasn't even the nicest thing of mine he threw away. He threw away my nicely restored Hardinge BB2V , seen in my avatar and on Lathes.co.uk site. I didn't restore it, I bought it from a P.M. member who had it professionally restored.

But the nicest thing he threw away was my short bed Monarch series 71, the final version of the Monarch 1000ee with its famous constant surface speed, and mine had modern electronic unlike the thyratrons of the 1000ee. Never seen another 71 short bed in all the years of looking at auctions. Mine was in very good condition too, and had a steady rest and taper turning attachment, along with a ton of tooling / workholding. The electrical cabinet was compact unlike the huge one seen on 1000ee. Either Monarch sold it with the compact electrical cabinet and modern electricals or G.M. / Delphi had it specced like that.

He also threw away lots of chucks (Bison, Sojgren, Buck, tons of Hardinge collets, faceplates), my Swiss made Optima grinder with several chucks, tons of collets , grinding wheels and tooling, my Zeiss scanmax portable CMM.
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WTF?! Was this divorce related or something? Somebody would have had to pull me off that guy.
 
That is tough. Your brother in law is an idiot... No offense. He should have at least asked you what to do with the stuff. That's not the kind of decision you make without asking.
 
Spud said:
Had no idea there was an issue with the home. Was never told in advance. My sis was the one handling the home rental issue, as I was in Ceylon with mom trying to get sis's house repaired. In the beginning he told me he was sending everything to storage, and said the same when I arrived back here.

Like I said I was shell shocked when he told me about 2 ish months ago that he thrown it all away. Until that point I thought it was in storage, which is what he told me a few times.

Anyways I never planned on suing or anything, cause causing a rift in the family would destroy mom .I am just mad , sad and dejected. And only talk about this when someone talks about a similar machine.
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You are way more understanding than I. You sure he didn't sell it and pocket the money. He was sneaky enough to lie about it. I would still be either kicking his ass or in jail.
Hodge
 
Looking forward to thread starter explaining how and what products he used to restore the drill. Restoring machines is something I would love to do. One of the reason I enrolled in and graduated from the autobody refinishing and repair program at local Vocational school is because the painting skills learned in automotive painting can be used for machinery repainting. Been thinking about going around local South East Wisconsin machine tool rebuilders and asking if they have jobs available. But will wait till I get the vaccine, because I look after mom who is 84 and has health issues.
 
thermite said:
We sure as f**k HOPE SO!

WTH is WRONG with your head that some other Pilgrim's right DECENT rebuild project is meant to detour to YOUR personal tragedy?

"Edit" exists.

"delete" exists.

UNDO your damage.

It is that SIMPLE.
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Well you replied in the thread to my comments too, so aren't you also part of the problem. And don't you go off on tangents in many threads.

I took jwearing's advice and deleted it.
 
I doubt that any of it bothers the O.P. in the slightest. It's more likely that he exquisitely feels spud's pain better than the rest of us, having just finished a restoration on a similar machine to the one lost. If I were the O.P. I wouldn't mind letting the poor guy vent a little. Empathy and all.

And yes, O.P. did a great job. Machine looks awesome.
 
The resto for this machine is about the same as for any other cast iron unit. You strip all paint off, which is a PITA; i usually use an air operated needle scaler with a wire brush on a grinder to get into tight areas. You then have the arduous process of filling in all of the imperfections in the cast iron. You can use body filler and for small pinholes auto putty. It's a dirty long process and to do it right you have to to back to bare metal. I like high build epoxy primer directly on the metal; usually takes a few coats with sanding in between to get smooth. I use automotive paint, usually in an RAL color if its a Euro machine.Abene VH3 Rt.jpg Attached is a 1958 Abene VH3 mill i restored about 6 years ago; it's a Swedish mill i bought from Milicron.Abene VH3 Ctr.jpg
 
gearco said:
Not familiar with PIV; what means?
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Werner Reimers was an entreprenaur who got his name on a clever positive traction mechanical stepless variable ratio drive invented by another. He found funding for and marketed to... among MANY others, Alzmetall. For their AB5/s, and "not only"

About us | PIV Extruder Drives

Part of "Dana" corp nowadays. Others have also produced the same basic systems.
New chain belts can still be had.

US source:

PIV Drives | AC Compacting Equipment – Authorized Service Center for PIV Drives & Chains | 732-249-6900

Not cheap.

Where a Reeves-style resilient belted varidrive can slip and squeal or howl, especially if oily or worn, (Powermatic, anyone?) a PIV drive RUNS IN oil, does not slip, sort of grumbles rather than whines, and largely just gets a tad thunderous to its grumble, even when BADLY worn.

Still no slip until it full-out BREAKS its metallic "chain belt" or the tip-ends of the crucial PINS that engage the radial slots in its paired cones.

But neither are Reeves belts in 5 HP or better sizes "cheap". I have but the one PIV, but several Reeves or Reeves work-alikes.

I'd be happy if it were the other way 'round! Sometimes, PIV can actually be cheaper!

"I could be wrong", but ... your Alzmetall uses a three-shaft variation on the two-shaft Reeves concept that has some advantages. The "active" variable cones are on one shaft, not two, and that shaft moves as a tensioner to balance the commanded movement as the ratio is dialed-in. Or so it would seem "advantageuos", as Alzmettal has pretty much "standardized" on that drive system, all DP sizes, too. "I think".
 
gearco said:
The resto for this machine is about the same as for any other cast iron unit. You strip all paint off, which is a PITA; i usually use an air operated needle scaler with a wire brush on a grinder to get into tight areas. You then have the arduous process of filling in all of the imperfections in the cast iron. You can use body filler and for small pinholes auto putty. It's a dirty long process and to do it right you have to to back to bare metal. I like high build epoxy primer directly on the metal; usually takes a few coats with sanding in between to get smooth. I use automotive paint, usually in an RAL color if its a Euro machine.View attachment 310991 Attached is a 1958 Abene VH3 mill i restored about 6 years ago; it's a Swedish mill i bought from Milicron.View attachment 310992
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That Abene also looks gorgeous.

Re. paint.

Do you seal the basecoat with a 2K clearcoat ?

What's the difference between 2k automotive paint and paint used for machine tools ?

I presume you applied with an HVLP gun ?
 
Spud said:
That Abene also looks gorgeous.

Re. paint.

Do you seal the basecoat with a 2K clearcoat ?

What's the difference between 2k automotive paint and paint used for machine tools ?

I presume you applied with an HVLP gun ?
Click to expand...

No clearcoat; i use automotive one step automotive acrylic enamel; most times several coats with the last one wet enough to give a good shine. The key to any good paint job is the surface preparation. I use a gravity fed paint gun from Home Depot. The high build primer is helpful in that once you have the major dings covered with putty or filler, it sands well and with 3 or 4 costs you can get a smooth surface. If you want really smooth you need to use guide coats over the primer using any kind of black spray can paint and a sanding block with 300-400 grit until all the high spots are gone. This last step is a good way to ensure a smooth surface. Hope this helps.
 
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