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  1. #21
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    i ll get the size of the weight but im not taking it off to weigh it. as to the tire issues i have one that is in need of replacing have been kicking around the thought of having a spray in bed liner type compound sprayed into the tire spot and true/clean up the wheel after the curing

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    Just bought a nice Roll-In at an auction, but the roller bearings were shot. I figured $5-$10 for a bearing, right? No, Roll-In wants $45 each! So I remove the bearings and find out that they are Fafnir 201KTT bearings that are discontinued. I went to a local bearing house and they found a replacement Bl W201PP PRX Deep Groove Ball Bearing, $10 each! Installed them and they work great!

    Bl W21PP PRX Deep Groove Ball Bearing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

    Hope this helps someone!
    Last edited by lbau317; 12-15-2017 at 04:22 PM. Reason: Added info

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  4. #23
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    I was blessed to find a fairly nice Roll-in on CL early this past December. This thread has been very helpful! The saw is getting some general repairs ( bearings, tires, and my dampening cylinder needs to be replaced). May I ask a few questions?
    Did anyone weigh their weight? (Mine is missing)
    Bob and Dave: I am considering making/modifying my own cylinder....how did you add a check valve to your piston? Could you tell me where you found it?
    Dave: Your fence looks great! Would you share more about it?
    Thanks guys....Happy New Year!

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLenander View Post
    I was blessed to find a fairly nice Roll-in on CL early this past December. This thread has been very helpful! The saw is getting some general repairs ( bearings, tires, and my dampening cylinder needs to be replaced). May I ask a few questions?
    Did anyone weigh their weight? (Mine is missing)
    Bob and Dave: I am considering making/modifying my own cylinder....how did you add a check valve to your piston? Could you tell me where you found it?
    Dave: Your fence looks great! Would you share more about it?
    Thanks guys....Happy New Year!
    cut1.jpg air.jpg guard-stop.jpg

    I made my weight, by laminating 3 pieces of 5/8" x 6" x 8" steel together. It is plenty heavy, and likely could have gotten by with using 1/2" plate which would figure out as 20 lbs. I am thinking that someone had guessed at 15lbs, but I would go with 20 ....mine is around 25. Mine has the stock cylinder, but, but am planning on plumbing it to the top front for ease of use, by piping it up from the front fluid outlet, installing and valve to shut off and/or restrict the flow, and back down to the rear outlet. You will need to purge all of the air, or add a small reservoir higher than the other parts of the system. It was branded Trico, and have seen them for cheap on Ebay. The stroke length depends on where it is mounted, but mine was on the lower rear, and only needs about 6" travel. I used a front fence with one Heinrich PA jig fixture in the center of the cut, and the top of the clamp fixture hits the blade guard to stop forward travel.I also added some air nozzles, to blow away the chips before dropping down on the lower wheel.

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JLenander View Post
    I was blessed to find a fairly nice Roll-in on CL early this past December. This thread has been very helpful! The saw is getting some general repairs ( bearings, tires, and my dampening cylinder needs to be replaced). May I ask a few questions?
    Did anyone weigh their weight? (Mine is missing)
    Bob and Dave: I am considering making/modifying my own cylinder....how did you add a check valve to your piston? Could you tell me where you found it?
    Dave: Your fence looks great! Would you share more about it?
    Thanks guys....Happy New Year!
    Sounds like your in a similar boat as I, in the process of rebuilding my roll-in. Mine did not have any of the counterweight so I copied a friend of mines. Similar to what nutz said, I made mine 1 1/4 x 5.75 x 8". The hole is 2.25" down from the top and centered on the 8". I milled a t slot piece and welded it on. From what Ive been told some extra weight on these isn't a bad thing, they often end up with extra weight hanging on them.

    Mine didn't have the cylinder setup either. I purchased a phd 1 1/8 bore x 10" stroke cylinder to use. I thought id try an inline flow controlling check valve first, I haven't installed it yet but after putting fluid in it Im guessing I'll have to put a valve in the piston. Im planning to use a piece of spring steel with a screw holding it on for a check valve in the piston.

    Nutz, nice setup on the saw! How long is the rod on the heinrich clamp you used? I bought the standard one which is about 5 5/8 stroke (10" long rod) and planned to put three rows of holes. For work above 5 5/8 id have to move it back. However don't think its going to work, mounting it that close gets into the ribbing for the throat.

    I started a thread on my rebuild but need to do some updating on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kapster View Post
    Sounds like your in a similar boat as I, in the process of rebuilding my roll-in. Mine did not have any of the counterweight so I copied a friend of mines. Similar to what nutz said, I made mine 1 1/4 x 5.75 x 8". The hole is 2.25" down from the top and centered on the 8". I milled a t slot piece and welded it on. From what Ive been told some extra weight on these isn't a bad thing, they often end up with extra weight hanging on them.

    Mine didn't have the cylinder setup either. I purchased a phd 1 1/8 bore x 10" stroke cylinder to use. I thought id try an inline flow controlling check valve first, I haven't installed it yet but after putting fluid in it Im guessing I'll have to put a valve in the piston. Im planning to use a piece of spring steel with a screw holding it on for a check valve in the piston.

    Nutz, nice setup on the saw! How long is the rod on the heinrich clamp you used? I bought the standard one which is about 5 5/8 stroke (10" long rod) and planned to put three rows of holes. For work above 5 5/8 id have to move it back. However don't think its going to work, mounting it that close gets into the ribbing for the throat.

    I started a thread on my rebuild but need to do some updating on it.
    roll-cyl.jpg


    The rod on my Heinrich, is 15". You can order the entire unit with the length you need, from Travers. FWIW, I got the PA unit which is pump action.....the more pumps the tighter it grabs.
    You should not need a check valve on the cylinder. I made a sketch of my stock cylinder set-up. Keep in mind....the cylinder rod is pulled from the cylinder by the saw and weight mechanism, rather than pushing to activate movement. The purpose is to control the forward movement, and is done by how much fluid is let out by the needle valve. My valve is like an ice maker line shut-off. The purpose of the vented reservoir is to self bleed the system of air, and to have adequate fluid. That is about the best I can explain it. I would like to raise my valve to a more convenient height, and fairly sure that as long as I raise the reservoir a bit higher than the valve, it should be no problem.

  8. #27
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    Default Roll In Band Saw Help

    Quote Originally Posted by nutz4tools View Post
    roll-cyl.jpg


    The rod on my Heinrich, is 15". You can order the entire unit with the length you need, from Travers. FWIW, I got the PA unit which is pump action.....the more pumps the tighter it grabs.
    You should not need a check valve on the cylinder. I made a sketch of my stock cylinder set-up. Keep in mind....the cylinder rod is pulled from the cylinder by the saw and weight mechanism, rather than pushing to activate movement. The purpose is to control the forward movement, and is done by how much fluid is let out by the needle valve. My valve is like an ice maker line shut-off. The purpose of the vented reservoir is to self bleed the system of air, and to have adequate fluid. That is about the best I can explain it. I would like to raise my valve to a more convenient height, and fairly sure that as long as I raise the reservoir a bit higher than the valve, it should be no problem.
    Thanks for the info. I didn't realize travers sold the special length. So said yours is 15", did you shorten it an 1"? Looks like they go from 14" to 16". How do you like the PA over the standard one? The pump would be nice in a lot of instances.

    The check valve would just make it easier to return back to the rear. I think I'll try it with just the flow control check valve before messing with a check in the piston.

    That stop on the upper guide is genius! Definitely will have to incorporate this into my setup. Good thinking!

  9. #28
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    Just picked up a Roll In saw and resurrecting this old thread to keep everything together.

    Looking for some insight on tires. Currently the saw has no rubber on the wheels and I suspect it was run this way for a while. I am planning to bring it back to good running shape. Roll In currently offers tires for $39 each. Are the solid or do they have a joint in them? I can see the advantage for a solid tire not being lifted up from the blade, but if they have a joint, I can just as easily find some rubber and glue on a strip. Thoughts?


    And, to add to the log of information, I weighed and measured the weight; it is 15lbs and 8-1/4 x 6 x 1-1/8

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    The Roll In tires are solid, meaning they are a one piece round ring of rubber. Personally...I would use the correct tires, as most flat belt type wheels, and bandsaws, all have a bit of crown to them, which aids the blade or belt to track properly. I cannot positively remember for sure, but I do believe they had a slight crown when I installed my new ones ..... or reasons would to be sure of the correct thickness, as well as the correct durometer. I'm sure someone out there has done it your way, but for the reasons I list, I would buy them all over again. Jim

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  12. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kapster View Post
    Thanks for the info. I didn't realize travers sold the special length. So said yours is 15", did you shorten it an 1"? Looks like they go from 14" to 16". How do you like the PA over the standard one? The pump would be nice in a lot of instances.

    The check valve would just make it easier to return back to the rear. I think I'll try it with just the flow control check valve before messing with a check in the piston.

    That stop on the upper guide is genius! Definitely will have to incorporate this into my setup. Good thinking!
    Sorry for not being around here for awhile. My Heinrich rod was ordered as a 16" ...they may have included the ball. Definitely go with the PA model, as it allows for "pump action" to secure the work better.
    Looking closer at my drawing and comments, regarding the hydraulic ram, the vented reservoir would seem to provide and uncontrolled amount of oil on the back stroke, without the need of a one way check valve, which can be somewhat costly.
    I miss spoke a bit on my weight size .... I laminated 3 pieces of 3/4" x 6"x8" so the total thickness is 2-1/4". with the T-slot cut out, I would estimate it being right at 28lbs, based on weight listed for 3/4x6x8 steel. I have never found it to be too heavy.
    FWIW .... A long time Roll In user gave me the recommendation for the blade, and works great for most of what I do ....purchased from Travers ....Starrett Intense Pro .035"x 3/4" wide, 4-6 TPI varible .... number #26-031-326

  13. #31
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    This is a great place to get bandsaw tires from. they are also on e-bay.
    Urethane Band Saw Tires | Upgrade performance from OEM tires

  14. #32
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    I am in the process of reassembly and a bit confused on the...feed linkage...for lack of a better term. The large handle by ones right knee. It does not seem to lock in place, instead pushing it down further makes the linkage tip up and past "top dead center" and for the saw to start its infeed again. I could see this being prevented by a bolt added to the bearing guide rail to prevent this from moving too much past TDC, but it seems like a design oversight if thats the case. Figured I would double check. Maybe there is a part missing? This saw does not have a hydraulic cylinder feed to shut.

    I ended up getting some Blue Max urethane tires through eBay, about $40 for set of 2 and I have a 3/4" wide 4/6 TPI blade on order.

  15. #33
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    When looking in, from the right side, at the toggle lever link...there should be a spacer on the link bolt that will hit the bottom of the inclined rail.
    This limits the travel just over center.

    The spacer is approx. .625 dia. x .75 lg.

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  17. #34
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    From what I can tell, your description of how your linkage, is how it is supposed to be. To start it into a cut, you lift the lever, making it go past center, for it to travel towards the work. With no cylinder to restrict the forward saw speed, you will need to hold the lever, and allow slight pressure, or as much pressure it takes, to make the cut.

  18. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by nutz4tools View Post
    From what I can tell, your description of how your linkage, is how it is supposed to be. To start it into a cut, you lift the lever, making it go past center, for it to travel towards the work. With no cylinder to restrict the forward saw speed, you will need to hold the lever, and allow slight pressure, or as much pressure it takes, to make the cut.
    Yup, I warn visitors before lifting that handle to listen to my explanation.

    You have to toggle if off the parked position, and then start pushing back (fairly hard) to restrict the saw from speeding into the piece.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob E View Post
    When looking in, from the right side, at the toggle lever link...there should be a spacer on the link bolt that will hit the bottom of the inclined rail.
    This limits the travel just over center.

    The spacer is approx. .625 dia. x .75 lg.
    Thanks, this is the piece of info I was missing. (Missing the spacer too, but thats simple enough to make). Also explains why that bolt gets so close to the rail.

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    I do not see that mine has a spacer ....one of the scissors bars hits the bottom side of the sloped rail, locking it in the park position.

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    I dont particularly like the geometry of these levers. I drilled a hole and added a separate stop for the feed lever which positions it better IMO. On the other linkage where the weight goes, the nut from the shoulder screw hits the rail. Ill have to figure something out there too.

    What length blades do you guys use? I just ordered a new blade based on Roll In's website (10ft) but its way too long. Im looking at closer to a 9ft blade

    Edit: I just saw on Roll Ins website there is actually 2 length listed, since my saw is a bit older, I assume they changed this at some point.

  22. #39
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    I just picked up an older saw as well, I was told it was the original model, I guess they had more than one original model though as it's not the same as the original in the catalog. Maybe several original models? A 9 foot blade looks like what I'll need as well and there are quite a few 'custom' parts on the saw, ½ hp motor and a 2" drive pulley but the gearbox sounds good and the both wheels have the groove so that's positive. Because some of the parts look like non-stock, it would be great to find good drawings to get the machine back to original.
    Some have said how old their machines are, how did you find that out?

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    I have a PDF manual that appears to be your saw. Email me at [email protected] for a copy. It notes a blade length of 8'-10" to 9'-2", so basically a 9' blade. It does not show or list a model number, but I have reasons to believe it was the first size that Roll In made. It says all came with 3/4 hp motors, and were shown as 3 speed.
    (70 - 140- 280 FPM ) Higher or lower speeds could be attained by simple pulley substitution. It does not say how the 3 speeds are achieved,but in one photo I can see the motor with a 3 step pulley ....cannot see the gearbox pulley. The later (l0' Blade model) shows both the motor and gearbox using a 4 step pulley. (70-140-270-540 FPM) I run my saw at the second from slowest speed ... that would 4" pulley on the gearbox, and 3" pulley on the motor .... I have rarely changed it for my work.
    The basic history of the Roll-In saw, they were originally made in Parma MI. They were sold to the company in Cleveland, that sell and support the Roll-in now. The original Parma company then started to make the Parma Work-a-Matic saw, the later sold it to Dake. As far as I know, with the exception of the square off top wheel guard, all of the parts are interchangeable , including the Dake saw.
    As far as putting your saw back to original ....all of the parts and operation are the same as the 10' blade model.


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