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  1. #41
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    Oct 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by nutz4tools View Post
    The basic history of the Roll-In saw, they were originally made in Parma MI. They were sold to the company in Cleveland, that sell and support the Roll-in now. The original Parma company then started to make the Parma Work-a-Matic saw, the later sold it to Dake. As far as I know, with the exception of the square off top wheel guard, all of the parts are interchangeable , including the Dake saw.
    Yup, and to make things more cornfusing..The original was made in "Parma Michigan"
    And now the Ohio version is made in a west Cleveland suburb know as....wait for it…."Parma, Ohio"

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Yup, and to make things more cornfusing..The original was made in "Parma Michigan"
    And now the Ohio version is made in a west Cleveland suburb know as....wait for it…."Parma, Ohio"
    That Parma thing threw me off until I looked closer at it. Never knew there was one in MI until I got my saw.

    I cannot guarantee its original, but my saw came with a 3 step pulley (4-3-2, fits a 4L belt) and im pretty sure the gearbox has the same pulley on it, just backwards. Ive seen some people say 4 step pulley, I guess this is one of the things they changed in the later models.

    Edit for clarity: My saw is an earlier model (3 step pulley, 9ft blade)
    Last edited by Smrtman5; 09-18-2019 at 07:10 PM.

  3. #43
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    Just finished installing the Enidine hydraulic cylinder. Is it supposed to have about 2in of compression before the rate control sets in or is mine low on fluid?

  4. #44
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    I finally got everything back together, but the saw is throwing the tires off. I used a straight(ish) piece of stock to check the alignment between the faces of the top and bottom wheels and it looks like the top wheel is forward by about 1 inch. Im assuming this is one of, if not the only cause for this tire issue. Any ideas on how to fix it?

  5. #45
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    Jun 2008
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    Use the tracking adjustment on the top wheel, so that the top of the wheel goes back closer to the saw frame. Before doing anything as far as blade guide adjustment, make sure they are away from the blade until proper tracking is achieved. I always spin the motor pulley by hand, to get the initial tracking close, then finish it by running the saw. Jim

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  7. #46
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    Thanks for your quick reply! I totally missed that adjusting screw. Indeed the blade did want to walk, but now the blade is tracking well, but the tire is walking out from under the blade. Only on the bottom wheel. Still an alignment issue?

    The top wheel has a slight lip that looks like it keeps the tire in place. the bottom wheel does not have this lip. Not sure if that is part of the design or a previous users modification. Im almost leaning towards applying a few drops of glue to hold this thing in place.

    Edit: The walking tire occurs even without the blade guides in place, although it does seem like adding the blade guides accelerates the walking. I adjusted the guides so the back of the blade doesnt hit, so the guide isnt pushing the blade forward, but it didnt make a difference.

  8. #47
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    The wheels both had a lip, but if tires are left to wear and get thin, the blade teeth likey cut the groove off over time. I would use a contact cement on the entire rim/tire, to see it can be retained. If not... you might need to have someone turn in a new groove on a lathe.
    A couple posts up you have asked about the cylinder play....there should be no play, and likely caused by air being in the system. I show a drawing way up on the config of my cylinder. It has a vented reservoir higher than the cylinder, which keeps it with ample fluid all of the time, and a place for air to escape.


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