Rong Fu RF 712N Band Saw
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  1. #1
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    Default Rong Fu RF 712N Band Saw

    So I was given an in poor condition 7x12 band saw (seems like it's the same design used by everyone) with a flood coolant system. It appeared that it was misused during its lifespan. Looked like it was used to cut wood (or stuff OTHER than metal), as the coolant tank was one mass of a congealed blob of material.


    Well, fast forward a few months, and I have had the entire thing torn apart, cleaned, powdercoated, and reassembled. Got the 14 tpi bi metal blade installed last night (what a process that was) and did a (partial) full send through some stainless scrap I had laying around. Blade cut, just didn't go all the way through, so I still need to dial in the drop / feed (stopped prematurely, limit of the drop feed that I need to adjust).

    Here's the issue, the run capacitor on the pump (4uf 300WVAC chinese variant) blew tremendously, cracked the housing and leaked out all its schmoo (pic attached).

    So here are my questions; I rewired the main saw motor to run on 220v residential split phase. Would the pump see the 220v too? Or would it only get 1 leg of that (based on the electrical diagram in the owners manual here, https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0561_m.pdf)? Would this cause the run cap to blow? Anyone have a recommendation on a cap to get to replace this one (pic below)?

    Also, on the fence adjustment, I cannot for the life of me seem to get it adjusted to make 45* cuts. The only fastener location I can achieve to do so, the armature hits the top of the fence before a full cut. Anyone have experience with this particular model?

    Pics for reference









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    those pumps will do both 110/220V but will still need the start cap either way

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    Quote Originally Posted by BT Fabrication View Post
    those pumps will do both 110/220V but will still need the start cap either way
    Roger. I'll pick up another. I think I didn't wire it correctly.

    Will this work as a replacement?
    https://smile.amazon.com/Twidec-Capa.../dp/B07QS27P4D

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    On the (verboten discussed machine tool) bandsaw there are two other holes on the rear fence to do 45 degree cuts. I can see them on your picture above the two holes you are using.

    Unless of course you are using the correct holes and rong fu did you rong and screwed up the casting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flail View Post
    On the (verboten discussed machine tool) bandsaw there are two other holes on the rear fence to do 45 degree cuts. I can see them on your picture above the two holes you are using.

    Unless of course you are using the correct holes and rong fu did you rong and screwed up the casting.
    I've tried using them, but cannot get the fence to orient to 45°. Do you happen to have a picture of what setup you know will work to get to 45°?

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    37bcad6b-ba46-4a61-adae-1efe265eef96.jpg

    2c63dc14-3df7-4208-99fb-81cfd5ae24d1.jpg

    When you say it hits the armature, not sure what you mean.

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    Yea, that's how I have mine. I think my fence castings were just not properly milled to accommodate the 45 degree setup.







    I guess I'll need to send it to the mill to get things cleared.

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    Looks like your bolthole nearest the blade was milled closer to the front face of the fence than mine. Maybe plug it with a brazed in plug and remill the hole more rearward of the fence face.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flail View Post
    Looks like your bolthole nearest the blade was milled closer to the front face of the fence than mine. Maybe plug it with a brazed in plug and remill the hole more rearward of the fence face.
    What about just milling the mitered relief at the top of the fence deeper to clear the armature?

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    Quote Originally Posted by APynckel View Post
    What about just milling the mitered relief at the top of the fence deeper to clear the armature?
    It's a hack machine, simply use a $10 HF angle grinder to cut whatever clearance you need.

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    It's a hack machine, simply use a $10 HF angle grinder to cut whatever clearance you need.

    I mean yea, could do that, or take the time to keep it pretty. I just went through the entire thing and cleaned it up / refurbished it. No sense half assing now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by APynckel View Post
    I mean yea, could do that, or take the time to keep it pretty. I just went through the entire thing and cleaned it up / refurbished it. No sense half assing now.
    It wasn't pretty when it came off the boat....

    And your not steady/good with a 4 1/2" angle grinder ?

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    lol. No half-assing on a Rong Fu!



    I actually have the same exact saw. But mine is blue. Your issue on the 45 deg cut is you need to move the fence away from the head of the saw. This is done by repositioning it with the threaded holes on the saw bed...if there are none, drill and tap some. That will give you the clearance you need.

    No idea why you would rewire to 220v....120v is the best voltage for a saw that small. But you can always run the sump pump off a separate feed if it's causing you problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    lol. No half-assing on a Rong Fu!



    I actually have the same exact saw. But mine is blue. Your issue on the 45 deg cut is you need to move the fence away from the head of the saw. This is done by repositioning it with the threaded holes on the saw bed...if there are none, drill and tap some. That will give you the clearance you need.

    No idea why you would rewire to 220v....120v is the best voltage for a saw that small. But you can always run the sump pump off a separate feed if it's causing you problems.
    To be fair, it's not really a rong fu any longer since I've refurbished it and powdercoated everything, replaced bearings, etc. Trying to get as much life out of it as I can.

    I rewired because I have 220v available, and it will run the motors more efficiently, not require the start cap, and draw less amps per line load.

    Your thoughts on the threaded holes in the base is a good one. I don't like the 1/2-12 threaded fastener anyways. I'll look into what it would take to drill / tap a new 1/2-13 to run 45° cuts. I spose that will just take setting the fence to 45° away from the armature, back punch, drill, then tap.

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    Why would a change in voltage delete the need for a start cap?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    Why would a change in voltage delete the need for a start cap?
    Well doesn't delete it, but definitely reduces its usage rate. Less gap to fill in the sine waves from the 2 lines.

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    Quote Originally Posted by APynckel View Post
    Well doesn't delete it, but definitely reduces its usage rate. Less gap to fill in the sine waves from the 2 lines.
    The powdercoating fixes everything......

    More power for the heaviest cutting, more speed, and more accuracy....

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    The powdercoating fixes everything......

    More power for the heaviest cutting, more speed, and more accuracy....
    Well this saw was free to me, but was in terrible shape (was used to cut wood for some reason). So I cleaned it up and had it powdered to keep it protected.

    And yea, it's not a precision machine, nor a powerful one, but still, while I was in there, minus whale.

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    Well I got tired of waiting for a green light for some mill time, sooooo



    PRECISION ANGLE GRINDING!







    And we're up and running!






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    If you order Chicken Egg Foo Yung in a Chinese Restaurant and the waitress brings you Mushroom Egg Foo Yung, is that the Rong Foo?

    More seriously, if there is something on a Chinese bandsaw that won't permit cutting on a 45 degree angle, would you even hesitate to break out the grinder?


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