What's new
What's new

Rotary Table Help....

bradp

Plastic
Joined
Jan 21, 2014
Location
Pennsylvania USA
Hey fellas, sooooo while trying to get my Delta Rockwell 11x36 restored, i went and bought myself a milling machine. I also ordered a rotary table with it, and of course i had to tear it completely down, clean it and greased the worm. It came pretty dirty. See the problem is to get the table off, on the back there are 4 socket head screws and 4 set screws that came out, and now i can not get the table to turn smooth after putting the screws back in. Either its to loose, or i barely turn the screws then its so tight i cant even move it. It turned smooth from factory so i know its something i am doing wrong. Is there some way to "tune" these screws so it will run smooth. Or is there a certain order or way to do this? I also get tight spots and loose spots when i run the handle. Any help would greatly be appreciated. My manual says nothing about how to put these screws back together properly, but it does say your suppose to completely disassemble it and clean it, lol. Figures right.
 
I know this seems like a stupid question, but any help from someone that taken one of these apart and reassembled would be greatly appreciated....
 
some photos of the parts in question, and some of the table in general...
I realize it might be hard , but not all tables are assembled or adjusted the same....Gotta know what ya got if you want help.
Cheers Ross
 
Don't know anything about that brand, but as it looks pretty low-budget, my first guess would be to back off the set screws and tighten the capscrews in the counterbored holes. Then adjust the setscrews to remove any slop.

You've had it apart... Are those setscrews bearing on a thrust washer? Another thing, does the worm disengage for freewheeling the faceplate? If so, there should be an adjustment for limiting maximum worm engagement; you need a slight bit of backlash there or the worm will bind.
 
I only removed the table, backlash is minimal but its there. Also there is no thrust washers under the set screws. Its low end, I didnt even know what brand it was when i bought it, it came from precision mathews. So, i though it was their "own" brand. If i knew it wasnt i wouldnt have gotten it. I havent called them yet, but i still may.
 
bradp --

Pay attention to eKretz's comment about worm engagement, as only trivial eccentricity of the worm surface around the worm-shaft axis is needed to create significant once-per-WORM-revolution cyclic tightening and loosening of table rotation. The "usual fix" is to slightly move the worm away from the wormwheel.

If that's not it, my guess is that the problem is to adjust axial clearance of the table bearing system. If so, the setscrews are used to push the retaining disc away from its fully-seated position to allow the table to rotate smoothly, and then the capscrews are used to clamp the disc.

Unless that table shows significant "cam action" -- causing the CENTER of the platen to rise and fall when rotated -- or the retainer disc and its not-quite-bearing surface of the table base have their own cam action going, the required clearance is trifling.

I'll suggest that you support the table assembly, resting on its rotating surface and with the retainer disc on top, and remove the capscrews. Back out the setscrews, and push the retainer disc against its seat firmly. Then bring the setscrews into contact, using GENTLE force on the hex-driver shank with your thumb and middle finger. Once all four setscrews are in place, install and lightly snug the capscrews. Turn the table assembly right-side-up, and try its rotation. If snug, tighten the setscrews; if loose, tighten the capscrews.

Unless you get really lucky, the adjustment will require iteration.

John
 
Last edited:
I remember we had an off brand rotary table where I used to work .
One of the guys took it apart and it had steel balls under some of the adjustment screws.
Could this one have been the same and the balls fell out during cleaning?
Just an idea.

Jack
 








 
Back
Top