Rubber handle dip suggestions

Bondo · Nov 23, 2020

I am making these aluminum hooks for a company and I used the plastidip yellow rubber handle coating. We got very mixed results and I am asking for help in getting a better adhering product.

The problems are mostly bare spots and horrible sagging area. We built a small dunk tank to dip these into. Small, just 6x9x3" deep. We tried acetone, sanding for better grip, temperature, accelerated drying times, nothing seems to make them all consistent.

I will be needing 200 dips so I would like a product that is one and done if possible.

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Gordon Heaton · Nov 23, 2020

You might experiment with 'liquid electrical tape'. It comes in black, red and yellow. My boss handed me a can of it the other day when I was trying to insulate some wiring deep in a lift column. It sticks well, dries fast. Don't know how it would work for grips but I suspect it might be fine.

aarongough · Nov 23, 2020

Acetone is not really that great for degreasing parts, it tends to evaporate and leave behind any oil that it contained. I would recommend trying a decent quality water based degreaser, preferably in a large tub/bucket so any residual oil is well diluted.

Sandblasting the parts will give you the best possible 'key' for any coating, but I don't have direct experience with handle dips...

rons · Nov 23, 2020

Bondo said:
I am making these aluminum hooks for a company and I used the plastidip yellow rubber handle coating. We got very mixed results and I am asking for help in getting a better adhering product.

Tried that stuff a few decades ago. Still the same lousy junk, kind of works but doesn't look good. There must be something good out there.

In the process of diy candle making you dip a wick into hot wax and extract it. Let cool a little. Dip again. Leave candle in wax too long and previous builds melt away.
Would you plastic dip parts look better if the dip material was thinned and it took 3 dips rather than one dip?

Whatever Channellock is doing with their plastic dip handles, must be something right. They look good with that blue color.

eKretz · Nov 23, 2020

I don't know about anyone else, but acetone works awesome for final degreasing of parts in my experience. I always use paper towel so that any residual dissolved grease or oil gets absorbed into the paper towel. Bulk degreasing is not really it's forte, but for the final step it works better than most other stuff readily available these days.

rons · Nov 23, 2020

Lacquer thinner is my choice.

tdmidget · Nov 23, 2020

Acetone is a polar solvent like alcohol. It does not do a good job of dissolving hydrocarbons. The lacquer thinner would be better. Brake parts cleaner better. Even boiling lye solution would be better. Acetone is not that good for most purposes though it has magical properties like transmission fluid.

dgfoster · Nov 24, 2020

For a cleaning agent that leaves no residue, Iso Propyl alcohol is commonly recommended. Virtually all petroleum-based solvents contain small amounts of heavier petroleum components and are left behind on the surface. Not so with alcohols with isopropyl being cheap and widely available.

Dan Gelbard discusses this in this video on surface energy and paint prep. He discusses several methods of increasing surface energy which improved adhesion of paints and glues etc.

Here is a very informative video he made on the subject: Building Prototypes Dan Gelbart part 6 of 18 Coatings - YouTube

This entire series contains many useful nuggets of information on prototyping

Denis

jrmach · Nov 24, 2020

Plastic Dip once you figure it out may look good for a year or 2,then it goes to shit.It melts upon itself and becomes a gooey mess.

DDoug · Nov 24, 2020

IIRC there is a vinyl coating process using powder, electrostatic applied to a heated part
(or fluidized bed).

If so, that would explain how Channelock get's an even build.

Duck-Duck-go get's the prize:
Contact Us | Innovative Coatings, Inc. | Protective Coatings

steve-l · Nov 24, 2020

eKretz said:
I don't know about anyone else, but acetone works awesome for final degreasing of parts in my experience. I always use paper towel so that any residual dissolved grease or oil gets absorbed into the paper towel. Bulk degreasing is not really it's forte, but for the final step it works better than most other stuff readily available these days.

Using a paper towel is a really bad idea if you want clean metal. This is because of the lanolin used to make the paper towels soft. On the other hand, I always wipe my recently washed knives with a paper towel to inhibit corrosion for the same reason.

eKretz · Nov 24, 2020

steve-l said:
Using a paper towel is a really bad idea if you want clean metal. This is because of the lanolin used to make the paper towels soft. On the other hand, I always wipe my recently washed knives with a paper towel to inhibit corrosion for the same reason.

My final paper towels for prep work are actually Kimwipes. They don't contain anything but paper and are lint-free.

Peter from Holland · Nov 24, 2020

Bondo said:
I am making these aluminum hooks for a company and I used the plastidip yellow rubber handle coating.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Why not search for a...........Rubber handle

Or PVC or PU

Peter

MilGunsmith · Nov 24, 2020

We are trying a product called XL-8 Plastic Coat to mark our range tools as they keep getting "borrowed" by the different ranges. Trying to keep one set in each range, hoping different colors will remind them of where the tools belong. We will see how it holds up.

dian · Nov 24, 2020

for small parts like knobs i use "goop" thined with toluol. works well. i have a dip type product, but the coating is hard.

surplusjohn · Nov 24, 2020

What you want us plastisol coating. It is a vintl powder suspended in water. You preheat the part. Dip it in for x seconds then bake it for a few minuets to fuse the vinyl. Simple and easy process. Plastisol is availble on amazon. You can slush mold parts by making a hollow mold and fill it with plastsol then dump and bake. That is how dolls are made. Caplugs are made on male mandrels, etc.

EPAIII · Nov 24, 2020

Wow! And I have been using isopropyl alcohol all along. I had several bottles of it when the Covid thing broke out and it has lasted for both shop use and personal use. Now I see alcohol coming back to the shelves.

When I clean things with alcohol, I usually use paper towels with the alcohol on them. AND I clean more than once, each time using a fresh towel.

If only we could get Lysol spray.

dgfoster said:
For a cleaning agent that leaves no residue, Iso Propyl alcohol is commonly recommended. Virtually all petroleum-based solvents contain small amounts of heavier petroleum components and are left behind on the surface. Not so with alcohols with isopropyl being cheap and widely available.

Dan Gelbard discusses this in this video on surface energy and paint prep. He discusses several methods of increasing surface energy which improved adhesion of paints and glues etc.

Here is a very informative video he made on the subject: Building Prototypes Dan Gelbart part 6 of 18 Coatings - YouTube

This entire series contains many useful nuggets of information on prototyping

Denis

EPAIII · Nov 24, 2020

Really? Perhaps in a shop environment, but I dipped some hinges to use them as handles on the back side of a bi-fold door a couple years ago and they are still like new.

However, I have seen bad results with the common, hardware store plastic dip and would not recommend it for a customer's parts unless it is specifically specified by the customer or their drawings.

jrmach said:
Plastic Dip once you figure it out may look good for a year or 2,then it goes to shit.It melts upon itself and becomes a gooey mess.

Rubber handle dip suggestions

Hot Rolled

Titanium

Stainless

Diamond

Diamond; Mod Squad

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Titanium

Diamond

Titanium

Diamond; Mod Squad

Diamond

Stainless

Titanium

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

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