Rust converter vs rust remover for lathe ways? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Seems like everyone's making a rust remover now. There is a product on Amazon called Rust911. One gallon makes something like 15 gallons of mix. Sounds great, doesn't work as well as ER.
    I did buy a 5-lb back of a commercial chelant chemical, which I intend to try this week.

    I'd try the CRC stuff. Good company, their stuff works.

    To the point about being careful not submerging the part completely, if you leave a bare metal part sticking out of the Evaporust solution for any length of time, it will etch a line at the waterline, almost like you cut it with a razor blade. Make sure everything in the solution is totally submerged.

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  3. #22
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    My experience with evapo rust and oil or grease, is that the oil/grease keeps evapo rust from working, no idea about softening old grease.

    Somebody needs to do a vid on rust removal with a razor blade, seriously you can be finished with the bulk of the job using a razor before you will be finished building a tank to put it in. Start with a non critical machined flat but rusty surface like top of compound, get a pack of new blades and a decent holder, NOT one of the retracting style. Set blade at about 70 degrees from horizontal, press down so edge flexes, and slowly start working forward, I find it works better dry. Almost everyone of my machines came to me rusty and this is how I clean rust on the parts too large for a spooge tank, save the evapo rust for all the small detailed parts.

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    I must be the only one that has actually done it, you cant talk the rust off!
    Seriously, the ones that do it use the Acetone/ATF mix, brass brush and hard work.
    Don’t believe me or donie. It’ll never work.

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  7. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dalmatiangirl61 View Post
    My experience with evapo rust and oil or grease, is that the oil/grease keeps evapo rust from working, no idea about softening old grease.

    Somebody needs to do a vid on rust removal with a razor blade, seriously you can be finished with the bulk of the job using a razor before you will be finished building a tank to put it in. Start with a non critical machined flat but rusty surface like top of compound, get a pack of new blades and a decent holder, NOT one of the retracting style. Set blade at about 70 degrees from horizontal, press down so edge flexes, and slowly start working forward, I find it works better dry. Almost everyone of my machines came to me rusty and this is how I clean rust on the parts too large for a spooge tank, save the evapo rust for all the small detailed parts.
    If I had a rusty machine lying around here I would make a video
    I do like to use the WD40 with the blade though.. I find it is less likely to dig in and leave scratches.

    Most of the rusty machines that wind up here have this done to them

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    Quote Originally Posted by Just a Sparky View Post
    Heh, 'camo pattern'. Nice. Well, maybe I'll keep searching for the right rust remover that does the job for me but at least it seems like I've got the general answer that I need: That rust converters are not really what I'm looking for to clean precision surfaces.

    Anyone had experience with CRC's rust remover? I've had good experiences with their products on the job so I figure their offering might be worth consideration. They even list engine components and machine parts as some of their intended applications.
    interestingly thats 50% phosphoric.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swatkins View Post
    If I had a rusty machine lying around here I would make a video
    I do like to use the WD40 with the blade though.. I find it is less likely to dig in and leave scratches.

    Most of the rusty machines that wind up here have this done to them
    I've tried doing it with WD, but for me I feel like razor blade has a tendency to want to slide over rust easier, whereas if dry it just shaves it off into a fine powder. As soon as I see the slightest scratch its time for a new blade. Only machine where I had to be really careful about razor digging into cast iron was an Italian machine, soft iron is my best guess.

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    That's kind of why I like the scrapers instead of a razor blade. They are not so hard, don't scratch much. They do require a touch-up 90° grind from time to time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dian View Post
    interestingly thats 50% phosphoric.
    Where did you come up with that statistic?

    http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/18421.pdf
    Last edited by Just a Sparky; 06-01-2020 at 07:28 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eKretz View Post
    That's kind of why I like the scrapers instead of a razor blade. They are not so hard, don't scratch much. They do require a touch-up 90° grind from time to time.
    You mean one meant to be used on wood to get a smooth surface?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob F. View Post
    You mean one meant to be used on wood to get a smooth surface?
    Nah, those are quite hard. I mean like a putty scraper or putty knife. Still reasonably hard (usually spring tempered) but a little softer than a razor blade.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Just a Sparky View Post
    Where did you come up with that statistic?

    http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/18421.pdf

    Did you look at uronium sulphate CAS? makes phosphoric look like water.

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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    Brass brush with PB Blaster,or Acetone and ATF mix took care of this small problem.

    The brass brush reacts with the mix, but it is still work,


    This photo I find interesting, the rust removed from the very front of the ways on the knee is unworn because the saddle doesn't travel that far, but it shows the original scraping. Rust does damage machine ways, how much may depend on the quality of the cast iron.
    what a nice job. id be curious to see the condition of the table surface before and after too.

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    The bright metal parts of the machine get brighter wiping the machine down with kerosene then oil, after the rust is removed with the acetone/atf fluid and brass brushes. The entire machine was de rusted using only 2 gallons of the mix.
    The higher the ambient temperature, the better the action, below 60f the rust removal slows down.


    At the beginning, spotting the mill from the hi way last November.



    Next up! Little 3hp radial drill press "Morris Morspeed", cute little thing! Sealed the deal yesterday, every thing still moves,Carlton tilt table, quality cast iron that will clean up nice!

    I do it because I can.

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    We here are aware that Acetone and transmission fluid won't mix. Save that shit for the home shoppers.

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    How about Coca-cola and some abrasive pads??

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    Quote Originally Posted by tdmidget View Post
    We here are aware that Acetone and transmission fluid won't mix. Save that shit for the home shoppers.

    Not sure why you would say that? It makes the best penetrating oil and I have a handy spray bottle of it in the shop.

  21. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdmidget View Post
    We here are aware that Acetone and transmission fluid won't mix. Save that shit for the home shoppers.
    Well, he tried to mix it with his little midget dick! Cant do that, causes contamination.

    Another looser that says you cant, but I do fucking show you can.

    And just who is "we", I think its all you.

    And this also from the I am clueless and helpless cabal " How about Coca-cola and some abrasive pads?? " ha ha how about that. And whats with all the likes you give each other?

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  23. #38
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    I have had pretty good success removing rust from ways by cutting pig mat (absorbent spill pads) into strips, soaking it in evaporust and laying it out on the ways. Pig mat is very absorbent and will stay saturated far longer than rags or paper towels.

    Donie, that b&s is beautiful. I have a #2 that was given to me by my father, it's never been outside but it did spend 10 years in poorly ventilated garage so moisture got to it anyway.

    What would you suggest as the mixing ratio of acetone to ATF?

    I use kero and ATF mixed 1:1 to remove cosmoline and it works great. Also been using STP oil treatment and ATF mixed 2:1 as a chain lube on dirt bikes my whole life.

    It's difficult to argue with results!

  24. #39
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    "It's difficult to argue with results! "
    Certainly, as can be seen, the mutts that "like" each other in "kinky ways", do it anyway.
    donie, always shows photos, always test things out before posting, keeps post short and to the point, only attacks the cabal of the worthless and helpless, that like each other to death, when I am attacked.
    And its far too easy to swat down these old, lazy, molded shit for brains, that would suggest pouring fucking soda pop on your machine!

    Alright! I will describe from actual experience!

    I use a jar that a brass brush will fit in, just pour in the stuff 1-1, and stir it with the brush "not with a little midget dick", and apply to the surface.
    I mentioned it works better the warmer the surface is, the mix appears to boil, it seems to react with the brass brush and remove the rust faster, but, the mix gases, you need ventilation, protective clothing, eye protection. It also takes "physical effort" to de rust something like a milling machine.

    And remember to "kill a commie for mommy".

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    Quote Originally Posted by Just a Sparky View Post
    Where did you come up with that statistic?

    http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/18421.pdf
    https://cdn.sos.sk/productdata/cf/a7...over-250ml.pdf

    apparently there are several of these with completely different composition without any trace of distinction. weird.


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