What's new
What's new

salt spray test suggestions

surplusjohn

Diamond
Joined
Apr 11, 2002
Location
Syracuse, NY USA
I have a product that I was involved in designing some years ago that was then made in CHina. it is an aluminum extrusion that was powder coated and is used in hotel bathrooms, so lots of warm humidity. Now they are having powder coating failure that looks like moisture is getting between the powder coating and working it off. Now the mfg broker is making noise about getting to the bottom of the problem etc etc. I know the problem, the powder coater did not prep the aluminum and use the proper powder, something any powder coater knows needs to be done. Anyways, client wants to perform salt spray testing and needs a suggested spec. Does anyone know the proper ASTM spec or other relevant test?

thanks
 
Salt Spray Testing

Surplus John,

I lifted this abbreviated method from the ASTM website

"ASTM B117 - 11 Standard Practice for Operating Salt Spray (Fog) Apparatus
Significance and Use This practice provides a controlled corrosive environment which has been utilized to produce relative corrosion resistance information for specimens of metals and coated metals exposed in a given test chamber. Prediction of performance in natural environments has seldom been correlated with salt spray results when used as stand alone data. Correlation and extrapolation of XXXXXX"

Of course the ASTM would provide the full article if you were a member or were willing to pay for the article. If I were still working, I'd run up to the company library and actually look up the article. Perhaps your local library could get you a copy.
 
Its been a while since I had anything to do with salt fog testing.
As I recall, the water is distilled or deionized, the solution is 5% NaCl salt, the cabinet is plastic and designed such that condensation will not drip on the test coupons. The temperature is 104F 95% RH. The test is run for 40 hours. The chamber is to be in a draft free area is minimize condensation. The test samples and control samples are hung in the center of the chamber. After the time has expired, the samples are removed, rinsed with water and the amount of corrosion is compared to the control sample.
That's as much as remember. If you need more, I can get hold of the lab and have them fax me the actual procedure.

Tom
 
This may be off the wall. I m not an engineer, but my Co., US Steel, sent me on a visit to GE in Louisville, Kentucky, 15 or more years ago.

THEY had a problem with the powder coat blowing blister off the surface. They determined that it was lack of "interstitial crevices", the metal was TOO smooth, no little crevices for gas build up to accumulate. Hence, a "little" "POW", you got a blister pop.

As I say, I am not an engineer, nor a metallurgist, but you MIGHT look into that. Steel will off gas Hydrogen, I don't know if Aluminum will off gas anything.

George
 
I know for sure that aluminum is NOT a good base for powder coat..... Especially if very smooth, as mentioned. Extrusions normally should be rough enough though.

Either they did use the wrong stuff, or they didn't clean, or they didn't rough up the surface in case that was needed.

I.m not a big fan of powder coat. My experience is that while it is a nice coating, if a bit thick and crude in many cases, it is also a 'zipper coating".... Fine so long as it is undamaged and whole.... but if you let it get breached, any corrosion will sprint across the surface under the coating and before you know it, the whole "sintered powder shell" will pop off in sheets like unzipping a coat.

Very good coaters have "less" trouble with this, but it remains an issue.
 
When I started doing in house passivation on stainless, I made my own salt spray testing chamber for under $100. I did not have the actual standards, but it certainly proved that the stainless was getting passivated.

2+ pounds NaCl (for 5% solution) feed grade salt from the farm store
2 stainless spray nozzels from the same store
various lenghts and sizes of hose also from there
cheap submersible bilge pump and plastic thru hull from marine supply
5 gal distilled water Walmart
1.5x1.5x2.5 plastic storage bin Walmart
clean new 5 gal bucket Walmart
aquarium heater 300 watt Walmart
12v battery and charger

When I got it running, I put in 2 identical samples: one passivated, one not.

After 2 hours, the unpassivated stainless showed some rusting; the passivated none.
After 2 days, the unpassivated showed a lot of rusting; the passivated sample still showed none.

At first, I checked my passivating often. Now, very seldom.

mm
 
We have a large salt fog chamber here in the lab that we run 24/7 to test zinc plated brake components. A many years ago I went up to north west OH to Auto Technologies Corp for certification/training. Aside from manufacturing the stands they also have a certified testing lab. There are a lot of various standards and it would be easy to get caught up in a lot of regs. If I was in your position (no equipment) I'd contact them to see what they'd charge to just run the test. IIRC the test for paint samples over metal required a scratch of a certain depth into the base metal through the paint, but like I said, there are a lot of different tests depending on what outcome you want to see. They should have no trouble steering you in the right direction.
 
Surely what ever test is required should have been obvious from the original powder coaters order, ie powder coat to xxx specification. If the order said just powder coat, they did and it looks good how are they going to be responsible? Hence why the need to test a sample?

So rather than play the blame game surely you need to be looking at the specifications actualy required for the coating to survive X long in that environment? Don't forget about the cleaning chemicals either. All be it only short term exposure, they can be darn nasty to pain - powder coatings, especially on something as reactive as aluminium.
 
Couldn't yuh jist toss it in the ditch in November and see what she looks like in March? :confused:


--------------

I am Ox and I approve this h'yah post!
 
For in house powder coating we sand blast everything and the paint is super stable. Our outside supplier washes everything twice and then applies an etch of some sort so you can send oily smooth parts and they still come out great. It's not even expensive.

Robin
 
thanks for the input. I passed along the spec number and the suggestion that they have to think through this whole issue. No one wants to spend more up front but 5 years later the issue suddenly has priority. I am trying to stay out of it.
 
The first thing I saw was China.... it is certain why there is a problem.

Aluminum sometimes needs a bit of extra care to coat properly, especially when smooth. It sounds like they parts were not properly cleaned.

I remember doing refrigerator parts years ago and I think it was like 1000 hours salt test. I may be wrong, it has been a while. But on the parts that did not pass, you could see speckles of rust starting to show through. Not sure how well it would work for aluminum.

Contrary to what was stated, when cleaned and applied correctly, powder coating is super durable and does not flake from a damaged spot. At least particularly on steel. Assume you knock a chip off, it should not flake from that spot over time if it was done right.

Where I was, we used an alkaline bath to cut any oil, through a rinse, into an iron phosphatizer, rinse, and though a drying oven. The iron phosphatizer would etch the surface of steel and leave it ideal to accept the coating. Curing the coating is also quite critical for durability. I had some strips of light guage steel that I abuse tested for the fun or it. Beat the piss out of one with a hammer and was only a few cracks where it was bulging through. i doubled one over and maybe one crack, no chips or flakes. Only when I squeezed the bend tight in a vise did a chip or 2 come off and a few more cracks. But around the chips and cracks, the coating was still adhering to the steel.

Perhaps the parts in your question were not well cleaned or possibly not dry. That will cause blistering, be it visible or not. Also, we had some issues with some sandblasted parts. It was claimed by someone that sandblasting would lay over high spots and trap air or dirt, causing blistering.

Any oil at all will cause it to not adhere properly, and likely leave pinholes where it baked out in the oven. Even oil from using bare hands. clean gloves should always be used when handling before coating.
 
No snow this winter (but we gots mud!) and this is an election yr.


-----------------

I am Ox and I approve this h'yah post!
 
Salt spray corrosion test*is a kind of test which mainly uses the artificial simulated salt fog environment created by the salt spray equipment*to evaluate the corrosion resistance of products or metal materials. <a href="https://www.testextextile.com/product/salt-spray-tester-tu380/">Salt*Spray*Tester</a>*is used to test the anti-erosion quality of the surface of all materials after the rust-proof of painting, coating, electroplating, anodising and rust-proof of greasing. Welcome to click at Salt Spray Test Chamber | Salt Spray Test Machine | Salt Spray Cabinet - TESTEX
 








 
Back
Top