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  1. #161
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    I still have some confusion about RPC’s amps.
    The 5 horse motor on the lathe is 14 amps.
    The 10 horse idler motor is 27 amps.
    Obviously, the idler motor will be able to power the lathe. To add other machines, I will be able to run another item with the leftover amps of 13A?
    Some people say you can run a whole shop.

  2. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    I still have some confusion about RPC’s amps.
    The 5 horse motor on the lathe is 14 amps.
    The 10 horse idler motor is 27 amps.
    Obviously, the idler motor will be able to power the lathe. To add other machines, I will be able to run another item with the leftover amps of 13A?
    Some people say you can run a whole shop.
    Those are both "FLA" (Full LOAD Amps) figures. Both the idler and the load motor draw a MULTIPLE of that at initial startup. Worst-case is up around 8 times. But only very, very briefly. Wire, fuses, and circuit-breakers are fine with that. Worst-case, you might now and then need a "TD" (Time Delay) breaker or "Slo-blow" fuse ever' now and then.

    One sizes the wire and breakers to those full-load figures. Code wants that. "Code" is - and for the sake of global safety - MUST BE "blind" to your promise to only-ever run at 15% load. Or whatever the lie of the hour might be.

    Your running loads can be checked with a clamp-ammeter. Some few (I have need of them - telco UPS power sizing) can also capture and store the PEAK draw at startup for later readout.

    NB: This is part of why I have my supply split four ways:

    - The Dee Cee goods, right off 1-P but via "drive isolation" transformers,

    - three separate 3-P sources, basically for three major machine-tools served by a 10 HP RPC, and TWO 10 HP Phase-perfect instead of one 20 HP or 30 HP "whichever".

    So yes, you can power the whole shop off one RPC. But smaller ones run closer to max load waste less that large ones with very low loads. Small one with a "supplementary idler" you can switch-in ONLY for heavy starting load of one or two of the largest machines, then take off the line once up and running is good, too.

    So - longer term - you may not want to do only the one.

    Starting load for more than one 5 HP motor at a time is not something PowerCo's like when one is on a shared residential-class "drop", even if you have the "nominal" Amperage at the service entrance for far more total running load than 5 HP.

  3. #163
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    Are you ordering another converter for your rpc? The converter box should have what it can do in its specs. Something like a 8 hp max single motor and 14 hp total motors.

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    No. Im sticking with the same 10hp converter for my idler. I just didnt know how many motors or amps it can handle at the same time. If my compressor kicked on while inwas on the lathe, wondered if id pop breakers.

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    Thank you.
    That answered my questions.
    Would it be smart to build a guard for the idling shaft? I saw some people cut the shafts off.

  6. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    No. Im sticking with the same 10hp converter for my idler. I just didnt know how many motors or amps it can handle at the same time. If my compressor kicked on while inwas on the lathe, wondered if id pop breakers.
    Worry about THAT if/as/when. It isn't really an RPC thing.

    Compressors are ALWAYS a PITA. My 1-P El Big-box Campbell-Hausfield never-ever messes at startup. But about one go out of five it will trip a breaker on SHUTOFF!

    I can FIX that with a five-dollah Crydom SSR outta my Hell Box, as they always-and-ever cut-OFF only at the "zero cross" of the sine wave.

    But it isn't worth the bother 'til I get the larger compressor the media-blast gear already needs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    No. Im sticking with the same 10hp converter for my idler. I just didnt know how many motors or amps it can handle at the same time. If my compressor kicked on while inwas on the lathe, wondered if id pop breakers.
    Your compressor should have a short delay from when the motor starts and the load of the pump load applied. If the motor doesn't get enough rpm's and your short on amperage the compressor motor will groan and may trip the motor reset before the breaker trips.
    I had a RPC that was borderline big enough to start a compressor and machine so I put a solenoid and a adjustable relay in the air line on the high pressure cylinder and vented the high pressure side to atmosphere for 10 seconds so the compressor could get full rpm's before the pump was applied.
    You also want a compressor with an automatic unloader so once the compressor motor is started the pump can cycle on and off but the motor runs continuous. Its a lot easier on the compressor motor. Dependent on air usage. In your case easier on the whole system.
    Also, the compressor motor running when unloaded will act as an added idler for the RPC. If it's a three phase compressor.

    I run a Ingersol Rand 30 series that way

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    Really? Any motors on the system act as idlers too? That explains why you can run a whole shop on fairly small idlers.
    I built a quincy 325 compressor verticle tank with the help of a youtube video. 5 hp. Starts slow like you said but powerful when running. The quincy pump has its original unloader but I use the unloader that came with the regulator. 80 gallons fills in 4 1/2 minutes. Makes about 18cfm. Im going to dig out its original 3 phase 5 hp motor now that im building the RPG

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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    Really? Any motors on the system act as idlers too? That explains why you can run a whole shop on fairly small idlers.
    Yes, now you're getting it. For some reason, my SPC does not kick out after my lathe starts. Rather than try to figure it out, I just turn on the mill (for which the SPC does kick out)and let it function as an idler. Once the mill is running, the SPC does not engage when I start the lathe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    now that im building the RPG
    Please. "RPC". Too many RPG's in the wild as it is!

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  12. #171
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    Whoops. I meant RPC

  13. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    now that im building the RPG
    Expect BATF to knock on your door.

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    Amperage spike phenomenon

    Do some research on the RPC forum and learn more. I have studied the subject some but the guys on the Rpc forum know their stuff. Check your amperage going into the rpc with any additional load.
    The members in the link are playing with some big motors there. Its all different when the motors are under load. An air compressor startup is a large amperage draw as you know. That's why the unloader feature with only one motor start, with the pump kicking in when needed saves wear and tear. Again depending on how much air you use.

  15. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    Thank you.
    That answered my questions.
    Would it be smart to build a guard for the idling shaft? I saw some people cut the shafts off.
    I would not cut off the shaft. You may want to use or sell the motor down the road. I have a much smaller pulley on mine than you took off yours and I have a white line painted on it so I can see if it is spinning or not. If you do want to guard it a short pipe works well, weld a stand to it that centers the shaft in it.

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    I will ask the great minds again.
    This Lathe needs a coorant system. Is there a budget friendly pump system i can get for the lathe?
    Also,
    I made some coolant for my band saw with oil water and dish soap. It separated and Caused surface oxidation.
    I grew up in my dads machine shop since toddler. His coolant was milk white and never separated. Any easy ways making coolant or is there some inexpensive stuff i can order that wont rust my lathe out too?

  18. #176
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    Unless you plan on doing production work, I would say skip the coolant, use a 50/50 mix of kerosene and lard, apply with an acid brush as needed.

  19. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterMicroscope View Post
    I will ask the great minds again.
    This Lathe needs a coorant system. Is there a budget friendly pump system i can get for the lathe?
    For a water-emulsion coolant the cheapest ones I use (power hacksaw, actually) that won't just die-young are mostly plastic and sold as "condensate" pumps AKA mini-mini "sump" pumps for the air-conditioning industry.

    "Proper" machine-tool coolant pumps in all metal OR a many-solvent-resistant plastic are only about $80 - $100 at the low-end, though.

    Also,
    I made some coolant for my band saw with oil water and dish soap. It separated and Caused surface oxidation.
    I grew up in my dads machine shop since toddler. His coolant was milk white and never separated. Any easy ways making coolant or is there some inexpensive stuff i can order that wont rust my lathe out too?
    Just read PM. Most years see a month to all-year long ongoing discussion as folks share their experiences, good, bad or indifferent and search for better or cheaper coolant and cutting oil solutions.

    A "DIY" emulsion might extend the tool life, but the biologicals it can grow might make YOUR life miserable - even shorter -and the corrosion can really mess up machine tools.

    Better to buy from the experts. Also consider "neat" mineral-based (AND NOT vegetable-based!) cutting oils. They are kinder to the machinery and have few / no biological degradation issues.

    All - plus droplet and mist systems with THEIR pro's and con's - are well covered "right here on PM".
    Last edited by thermite; 07-19-2018 at 03:30 PM.

  20. #178
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    This is one of many threads about coolant:
    alternatives to flood coolant
    This is a how to guide for building a minimum quantity lube (MQL) set up. It is from the above link on coolant. I will make at least one of these to replace an old koolmist.
    Dropbox - MQL sprayer.pdf

  21. #179
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    Stll waiting on the RPC panel to mate to the idler.
    In the meantime, i bouht a cold saw. Great deal too! Baileigh 2.5hp 230v with coolant. This thing better not take all day to make 16 cuts. Came with 2 gallons of coolant and 6 extra blades. 7f542b39-848d-4974-82e4-c61ae3a750d9.jpgee98981c-a60d-4128-874e-9d14aa181b9f.jpg


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