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Service questions for FM axial air gap motor?

tobnpr

Hot Rolled
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Attempting to service an old FM pancake motor on a Tree milling machine.
Can't find a machine manual (MH4/2UV, not UVR) but did find one for the motor. Assuming I can figure out getting the motor off the machine- FM recommended painting the windings with a "good grade of insulating varnish" and flushing/re-greasing the rotor and stator bearings.

Cover off the motor looks to be in amazing shape for probably 50 years old.
Any info on how to clean, prep and "paint" the windings (are there more "modern" products for this?), as well as what type of grease to use to refill the bearings would be appreciated.
 
You might try a motor rewind shop for advice or service. I took an older Bridgeport motor to check and they thought the varnish was a little soft so they dipped and baked it for me.
 
The right way is to vacuum impregnate it, done in a vacuum chamber where you pump the air out and then let varnish in to cover it. When you let air back in, it forces the varnish into every tiny crack. Some systems put air pressure on it to speed up the process but I never found it necessary.
Then you let he excess drip off and bake at about 260 F. Some shops will tell you that their dipping is just as good, but it isn't. That mostly coats the outsides and large openings in the windings but doesn't get in the small spaces.

Painting the windings with red Glyptal is mostly cosmetic and does little for the insulating qualities.

Bill
 
If the motor is clean inside ,its probably had a rewind ,maybe not many op hours ago.....Ive scrapped lots of old motors ,and its surprising how many have had costly rewinds just before the machine was surplussed away.Some burnt black too.
 
Thanks.
Anyone have a clue as to what would be a close equivalent/modern substitution for the Fairbanks-Morse FMC08 grease they recommended for the bearings?
 
You don't say what shape the windings and insulation are in...do they look OK?

People love to 'clean and bake' windings...that's great if they are oily or greasy or especially dirty. But, if they look OK it's better not to do anything at all.
 
Wouldn't screw around cleaning and repacking old bearings.
Replace with new sealed bearings...factory lubed and good for the life of the bearing,

Cost is relatively low...
Cheers Ross
 
^^^
Look pretty good to me- but aside from obvious peeling, flaking, etc. I wouldn't have a clue what's "good shape" and what's not...

hj44nfzl.jpg


Another one.
Anyone have a clue if that's a lube location with that screw showing towards the bottom? Manual shows locations top and bottom- nothing on the side (?)

GxE63pml.jpg
 
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You don't say what shape the windings and insulation are in...do they look OK?

People love to 'clean and bake' windings...that's great if they are oily or greasy or especially dirty. But, if they look OK it's better not to do anything at all.

I did a great many armatures for locomotive fuel boost pumps. The customer would do a megger check and if it showed any conductance, I would bake it at a little higher than 212F, put it in a vacuum chamber overnight, then let in varnish in the morning. That almost always brought the megger reading to infinite resistance. Old varnish can become brittle and crack, making paths for moisture to get in. The baking and vacuum treatment removes all but a minute amount of water.

Bill
 








 
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