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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by billmac View Post
    I generally only get the Stiltons out at Christmas time.
    Haha, good spot!

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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    I thought ''leave that for someone else to pick up''

    Well done Bill
    Its why you quoted me innit! Sear it into the PM servers forever at my expense... I mean, thats my job

  4. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    Up the BRITS
    Two Yew Longbow archer's fingers to "the accursed race" yah mean?

    Not that Renualt ever needed a lot of assistance making vehicles that sold well and alleged decisions that failed to do.


  5. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Its why you quoted me innit! Sear it into the PM servers forever at my expense... I mean, thats my job
    What's it worth for me to edit it out?

  6. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by eKretz View Post
    Yeah but you're using filler, he didn't. Fusion weld is bad juju on even medium carbon steel with TIG. Especially with the concave fillet.

    309 is a good filler for dissimilar steels too.
    You mean “autogenous” weld not “fusion” weld I presume. Every weld is a fusion weld 309 is ok for low carbon to stainless, but as the carbon content gets above .3-.4, better to go with 310-312 I think or a nickel based filler.

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  8. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post
    You mean “autogenous” weld not “fusion” weld I presume. Every weld is a fusion weld 309 is ok for low carbon to stainless, but as the carbon content gets above .3-.4, better to go with 310-312 I think or a nickel based filler.
    Yep. 309 works fine for 4140 - we used to use it all the time in the shop where I did my apprenticeship. That's not to say 310 or higher might not work better. It is the ferrite content in the filler that helps block weld dilution and carbon migration - I posted another note to that effect on the other site also. Found that one in some reference at a filler manufacturer's site. They recommended 309.

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  10. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by eKretz View Post
    Yep. 309 works fine for 4140 - we used to use it all the time in the shop where I did my apprenticeship. That's not to say 310 or higher might not work better. It is the ferrite content in the filler that helps block weld dilution and carbon migration - I posted another note to that effect on the other site also. Found that one in some reference at a filler manufacturer's site. They recommended 309.
    Bronze or Nickel braze were still the go-to tail end of the 1950's when the torch was still more prevalent, small farm, garage, or fix-it shop. Cheap-arse AC arc and Stainless rod still "new" to a lot of the grey-hairs or we youngster "hot rodders". Only "Real Welders" had DC stick!



    But about using cheap-arse Horror-Fright black-oxide "impact" sockets for stuff to be cut-up?

    Their mystery metal does weld more easily than better alloys!


  11. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by eKretz View Post
    Yep. 309 works fine for 4140 - we used to use it all the time in the shop where I did my apprenticeship. That's not to say 310 or higher might not work better. It is the ferrite content in the filler that helps block weld dilution and carbon migration - I posted another note to that effect on the other site also. Found that one in some reference at a filler manufacturer's site. They recommended 309.

    ferrite doesn't block weld dilution exactly, what you need is a filler that is tolerant of dilution with carbon and doesn't get brittle, and it is nickel content primarily that does that I think.

    WRC diagrams and all that. learned most of what I know from Damian Kotecki in Welding Journal (added on edit; "about ferrite in welds and ferrite diagrams from Damian Kotecki...")
    Last edited by cyanidekid; 01-24-2021 at 07:16 PM.

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    You could have bored and threaded all three parts, then keyed them in place and last locked the gismo with 50 /50 gold and silver solder.
    Then got the whole thing gold plated so it would not rust even if a bear busted in and peed on everything.

    I would have come and done it for you but Canada is closed for Covid..We can't even go fishing there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post
    WRC diagrams and all that. learned most of what I know from Damian Kotecki in Welding Journal
    DeForge. "Modern Welding Practice". Hardbound.

    Long enough ago heliarc was still the exotic, electric MiG and TiG not in that edition. Had to find that stuff later. Now it's a commodity, the cheap end buzz-box price would not even buy a good pair of steal-toad boots.

    But I basically do NOT weld, meself. Hardly ever.

    "Muscle memory" counts HIGH, and only those who DO it often and WELL have that. I go for a s**t, might have to retrain!

    Mostly needed to know enough to know what the welder needed to know. If yah know what I mean.

    Knowing enough to reduce designing-in and asking the impossible. Or at least chasing less of the stupid and/or expensive for challenging choice of material compatibility/NOT!.

    I stash more 8620 "project metal" than 4XXX for example. It's more flexible as to application.

  15. #51
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    Once again termite, you are at the top of a dead thread, spewing more bullshit, like the troll you are.
    Bull shitting must be much easier for you then machining!

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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    Once again termite, you are at the top of a dead thread, spewing more bullshit, like the troll you are.
    Bull shitting must be much easier for you then machining!
    And looks who’s right behind him contributing nothing. You hate thermite so bad you BECAME him!

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  18. #53
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    This is all very entertaining guys but lets get back to the original post and see how the turkey looks over the log, so-to-speak.

    I decided to test the strength of the welds of the socket I just made. The most brutal test I was able to do with what I had on hand was using my 1/2" C/P impact, 3/8" air line at 125 PSI. I think the torque rating on a C/P 1/2" impact is around 250 ft/lbs at 100 psi or so. I put a 1 1/2" bolt in a vise and hammered on it for 32 seconds in both directions. Then I checked the welds with a lope and found not even the slightest crack on either end. Then painted it up and labeled it the Tree Spindle Socket. Enjoy the photos and lets put this puppy to bed.

    Ron



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    When I needed about a one inch, deep socket I found out special deep sockets that size maxed out about 6-8" deep as off the shelf special orders. They were about $50 plus shipping in 1/2" drive. I ended up not needing it. I was just able to get a open end wrench in there.
    Bil lD

  20. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by nc5a View Post
    This is all very entertaining guys but lets get back to the original post and see how the turkey looks over the log, so-to-speak.

    I decided to test the strength of the welds of the socket I just made. The most brutal test I was able to do with what I had on hand was using my 1/2" C/P impact, 3/8" air line at 125 PSI. I think the torque rating on a C/P 1/2" impact is around 250 ft/lbs at 100 psi or so. I put a 1 1/2" bolt in a vise and hammered on it for 32 seconds in both directions. Then I checked the welds with a lope and found not even the slightest crack on either end. Then painted it up and labeled it the Tree Spindle Socket. Enjoy the photos and lets put this puppy to bed.

    Ron


    I like it, .....stopped them farting in church.

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    Jesus Christ man you painted it RED!

    Its like youre looking for trouble or somethin!

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    I guess we could have had a worldwide sealed ballot vote on the shade of Red.

    and it would have not hurt to have made it .oo5 mm longer.

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    Speaking of sockets..

    1) I did not know a 12 point socket was ONLY for square bolts.

    2) I fuc*ed up and bought speed handles for our 4" vises, which have a 9/16" hex, not 3/4", so we made adapters to fit one end in a 1/2" drive, and the other to fit into the 3/4" hex (using a 9/16" socket) {pat myself on the back}

  27. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by nc5a View Post
    This is all very entertaining guys but lets get back to the original post and see how the turkey looks over the log, so-to-speak.

    I decided to test the strength of the welds of the socket I just made. The most brutal test I was able to do with what I had on hand was using my 1/2" C/P impact, 3/8" air line at 125 PSI. I think the torque rating on a C/P 1/2" impact is around 250 ft/lbs at 100 psi or so. I put a 1 1/2" bolt in a vise and hammered on it for 32 seconds in both directions. Then I checked the welds with a lope and found not even the slightest crack on either end. Then painted it up and labeled it the Tree Spindle Socket. Enjoy the photos and lets put this puppy to bed.

    Ron


    Glad that it worked out for you... This time. Next time use some filler, for the love of God!

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  29. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by eKretz View Post
    Glad that it worked out for you... This time. Next time use some filler, for the love of God!
    "Next time" lay an eyeball on the housing.

    Make a slot in the most-useful location.

    Use an ignorant end wrench outta the drawer, ever-after.

    Just because a designer prolly many years in his grave created a "problem" don't mean it can't be corrected in the here and now.

    Not as if it were "religion". Nor even "politics".


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