What's new
What's new

Shot blasting to remove tool marks

Strostkovy

Titanium
Joined
Oct 29, 2017
Hello everyone, I'm a soon to be machinist (shop I live at is getting a CNC mill) and for various products we would like a better way to finish material where powder coating is not an option. I have figured out how to anodize aluminum, leaving a very hard, nonporous passivation layer of near arbitrary thickness, however, machining marks don't look good through clear anodizing.

I recall a thread on here where various ideas were thrown about to remove machining marks, and I recall stainless steel shot being mentioned. Does anybody have any experience with lowish pressure shot blasting for preparing a surface prior to anodization? I assume the finest shot I can get is ideal? I normally just try things until I get them to work but stainless shot is pretty pricey to buy and not use.
 
skin stress considerations need to be made. Anodizing and surface contamination might result in some unexpected outcomes. shot peening does not remove contamination, it embeds it!
 
skin stress considerations need to be made. Anodizing and surface contamination might result in some unexpected outcomes. shot peening does not remove contamination, it embeds it!

I suppose I should elaborate on my anodizing process and why nothing more than a degreasing is enough to make an excellent coating. With typical anodizing, the oxide layer grows, but is nonconductive so no current can flow. They typically fix that with various acids and harsh chemicals that etch into the coating, leaving pores that allow oxidation to continue. A sealer has to be used to close up the pores, though the pores offer a spot for dye to sit if coloring is desired.

In my process I deal with the insulative properties of the coating by using more voltage. The high voltage forces the oxygen atoms further into the aluminum surface. My best estimates give about a nanometer per volt, and I coated one test piece with 2000V (current limited) and left a very good hard anodize layer with no pores. I am essentially making a high voltage electrolytic capacitor.

A pleasant side effect is that no surface impurities have a dielectric strength near as high as the formed coating, so it all gets broken down, oxidized, or ignored in the process. An exception to that is iron impurities and likely other metals inhibit the process entirely by turning into a water soluble coating that never builds up. For example, a bit of laser slat melted into an aluminum part will sink all of the available current and prevent any anodization of the aluminum from occuring. To deal with this, I use a low voltage (30V) high current power supply to erode away impurities that affect the process in a matter of seconds to minutes.

To start with I can put over an amp per square inch and get uniform coatings. At higher voltages, as the power level increases microarcing occurs on the surface leaving a rough, porous surface. In the future I want to try making a thinner (say, 1um) nonporous coat then ramping the power up to make the remaining micron of the coating porous to accept dye and sealer, thus providing both exceptional corrosion resistance and color.

Another cool thing about the process is that although the parts of the component closest to the electrode start off coating fastest, they quickly become less conductive so the harder to reach areas such as tapped holes and inside corners also get a good uniform anodizing.




On the topic of shot blasting, I am almost entirely interested in removing machining marks with little time, labor, or dust. Cleaning is not a major concern.

I did just learn about spherical stainless powder, which is essentially stainless shot down to 15 microns, so that certainly opens up some opportunities (for disaster)
 
it has been my experience it try to prevent it as much as possible than to fix it.
usually with type of product it was best to hand buff, with uncontaminated wheels for buffing.
 
I suppose I should elaborate on my anodizing process and why nothing more than a degreasing is enough to make an excellent coating. With typical anodizing, the oxide layer grows, but is nonconductive so no current can flow. They typically fix that with various acids and harsh chemicals that etch into the coating, leaving pores that allow oxidation to continue. A sealer has to be used to close up the pores, though the pores offer a spot for dye to sit if coloring is desired.

In my process I deal with the insulative properties of the coating by using more voltage. The high voltage forces the oxygen atoms further into the aluminum surface. My best estimates give about a nanometer per volt, and I coated one test piece with 2000V (current limited) and left a very good hard anodize layer with no pores. I am essentially making a high voltage electrolytic capacitor.

A pleasant side effect is that no surface impurities have a dielectric strength near as high as the formed coating, so it all gets broken down, oxidized, or ignored in the process. An exception to that is iron impurities and likely other metals inhibit the process entirely by turning into a water soluble coating that never builds up. For example, a bit of laser slat melted into an aluminum part will sink all of the available current and prevent any anodization of the aluminum from occuring. To deal with this, I use a low voltage (30V) high current power supply to erode away impurities that affect the process in a matter of seconds to minutes.

To start with I can put over an amp per square inch and get uniform coatings. At higher voltages, as the power level increases microarcing occurs on the surface leaving a rough, porous surface. In the future I want to try making a thinner (say, 1um) nonporous coat then ramping the power up to make the remaining micron of the coating porous to accept dye and sealer, thus providing both exceptional corrosion resistance and color.

Another cool thing about the process is that although the parts of the component closest to the electrode start off coating fastest, they quickly become less conductive so the harder to reach areas such as tapped holes and inside corners also get a good uniform anodizing.




On the topic of shot blasting, I am almost entirely interested in removing machining marks with little time, labor, or dust. Cleaning is not a major concern.

I did just learn about spherical stainless powder, which is essentially stainless shot down to 15 microns, so that certainly opens up some opportunities (for disaster)

Thats all fine and Dandy but it aint going to help you if you dont listen to what calg said.

tool marks come out very simple with scotch bright and or plastic media in a tumbler.,
 
I've tried tumbling parts in the past at other jobs and have never gotten satisfactory results. I wasn't directly in charge of any attempts but they always consulted a local abrasive company and listened to their recommendations and it still took far too long to show results and was obnoxiously loud. The surface finish never got that great from parts bumping against each other.

This idea is based on a thread I thought I had seen here but can't seem to find. It's possible it was on a plating forum. Someone with identical issues was given advice to use very fine steel shot in a blaster run around 30 psi or less and it supposedly left a nice, smooth, even surface that anodized nicely. I believe the thread went as far as discussing a rotating basket for parts to tumble in under the blast stream but I'm not sure if that went anywhere. In any case it's pretty easy to mechanically scan a blasting gun over an area so it doesn't take much time from me. I bought some 325 mesh stainless shot (powder?) to try it out.

I can't say I'm a big fan of elbow grease methods as I am far too lazy to scotch-brite hundreds of parts.
 
If you are getting objectionable tool marks machining aluminum, you need to retool/reprogram your part. Solve the problem at the source, not with a band-aid.
 
If you are getting objectionable tool marks machining aluminum, you need to retool/reprogram your part. Solve the problem at the source, not with a band-aid.

Ha! Tell my bosses that. They want NO tool marks at all. I keep telling them an endmill rotates to cut, thereby producing tool marks, but hey what do I know?? Besides, depending on what/how/fixturing/thickness/source of material/etc OP is cutting, hard to say how to minimize toolmarks, other than a secondary process....
 
You don't want to handle the parts to scotchbrite them, but you're OK with manually blasting them all?

WTF???

There are few things on the list of shit I would rather not do higher up than spend time in front of blast cabinet.

Vibe tumbler is probably what you want. You just haven't figured that out yet.
 
I've tried tumbling parts in the past at other jobs and have never gotten satisfactory results. I wasn't directly in charge of any attempts but they always consulted a local abrasive company and listened to their recommendations and it still took far too long to show results and was obnoxiously loud. The surface finish never got that great from parts bumping against each other.

This idea is based on a thread I thought I had seen here but can't seem to find. It's possible it was on a plating forum. Someone with identical issues was given advice to use very fine steel shot in a blaster run around 30 psi or less and it supposedly left a nice, smooth, even surface that anodized nicely. I believe the thread went as far as discussing a rotating basket for parts to tumble in under the blast stream but I'm not sure if that went anywhere. In any case it's pretty easy to mechanically scan a blasting gun over an area so it doesn't take much time from me. I bought some 325 mesh stainless shot (powder?) to try it out.

I can't say I'm a big fan of elbow grease methods as I am far too lazy to scotch-brite hundreds of parts.
yes it's called vapor blast, it only cleans
 
It depends on the depth of the tool marks but, in my experience, blasting can actually emphasize flaws and tool marks.

A strange property of shot blasting is that larger shot leaves a smoother finish, so you may want to go larger rather than finer.
 








 
Back
Top