sitting saw selection question

If you need to make a slot "x" wide do you use a thinner saw and step over to widen the slot, or is it really a futile attempt to try it with a blade that thin? Does one really need to have a blade for every slot width? Can you stack blades of the same diameter, like a dado for wood? I am in the process of deciding on what thickness blades i need as a starter set, tired of slotting with a hacksaw

dee
;-D

If you use thinner blades, you use ones that can fully engage less than 1/2 width of the slot. That leaves enough to get a finish cut fully engaged as well. You then can just slide through the middle of the cut.

EVERY DAMN TOOTH has to be alternately chamfered to make them work well. The chamfer is about a 1/3 of the thickness. /-| and then |-\.. == The manufactures don't know that.!!!! Piss me clear off.

In doing so, flip the blade back and forth and mark the side and tooth so you don't miss.

Regards,

Stanley-

Metalcutter said:

If you use thinner blades, you use ones that can fully engage less than 1/2 width of the slot. That leaves enough to get a finish cut fully engaged as well. You then can just slide through the middle of the cut.

EVERY DAMN TOOTH has to be alternately chamfered to make them work well. The chamfer is about a 1/3 of the thickness. /-| and then |-\.. == The manufactures don't know that.!!!! Piss me clear off.

In doing so, flip the blade back and forth and mark the side and tooth so you don't miss.

Regards,

Stanley-

Click to expand...

Thanks Stanley,

So the trick is to always have some meat left in the center to keep the blade from deflecting. I see where i am messing things up .


dee
;-D

dcsipo said:

If you need to make a slot "x" wide do you use a thinner saw and step over to widen the slot, or is it really a futile attempt to try it with a blade that thin? Does one really need to have a blade for every slot width? Can you stack blades of the same diameter, like a dado for wood? I am in the process of deciding on what thickness blades i need as a starter set, tired of slotting with a hacksaw

dee
;-D

Click to expand...

It depends on the thickness to diameter ratio. You can do whatever you want with rigid setups. It's not like people open up slots with a .010" blade that sticks out five miles.

I don't think I've stacked blades before.

EVERY DAMN TOOTH has to be alternately chamfered to make them work well. The chamfer is about a 1/3 of the thickness. /-| and then |-\.. == The manufactures don't know that.!!!! Piss me clear off.

Click to expand...

Robbjack makes blades like that . K1--12-12
3/8″ Arbor 12 Teeth Double Concavity Alternative Tooth Chamfer 1/2″ Hub Diameter 1″ Diameter Solid Carbide Saw - RobbJack Corporation

They probably make the best slitting saw blades you can get. At least that I've used.

I don't think I've seen an HSS blade with chamfered teeth. I have slitted miles of material with non chamfered HSS blades. It's not like they won't work at all.


Maritool sells a super sweet one piece slitting saw arbor.
BT3-SSA.5-3. Slitting Saw Arbor Holder - Made in USA MariTool

imo you need a blade for every slot width (how many are there?)...up to a point. Not sure where the dividing line is but 1/32 is a slitting saw, 1/4 is thin milling cutter (in my book anyway), but I think of slitting saws as being quite thin. They're a royal pita. Like any cutter on an arbor there has to be some clearance which means they are going to run somewhat eccentric. Because they are so thin, you can't impose much of cutting force to preload things so they end up cut on a few teeth (throw your feed calculator away). Soooo using a saw thinner than you have to is intentionally creating this crappy machining situation.

they're a pita anyway without making it more so by using a flimsier, thinner cutter AND having to take a couple of passes