Use stub arbors all the time holding up to inch wide side and faces.Had a bit spare cash couple years ago looked around for a inch stub arbor with the taper on to fit direct into spindle,sourced a one from America,didnt realise it was made in far east. Price was good waited,waited it eventually came after I had to pay customs the cost escalated to more than l would have paid here.Used it couple times and the hardened shaft cracked.The ones l have had no trouble with are home made use a decent grade steel(1.250dia-approx) turn them to size,put a center in top,keway in,and a tapped hole for a capnut,you need to screw cut it to fit an inch collet and preferably turn a collar onto stop it screwing itself up and putting undue pressure on the center in your(clarkson?) chuck.Those ones that have no keyway in and a mushroon head screw lock on and theres no way of unlocking them unless you drill them out-they can cause the saw to crack-Also as you want to throw all the saws out that run out excessively normally caused by being located on arbors that run out-so they are bent-so turn yourself two or 3 up-finish to size or leave grinding allowance on-you can even stick a turning tool in the vise and finish them to size when they are in the machine spindle-make sure you use a inch collet some people pick the 25m/m up by mistake-Cant see a stub arbor running .022ins out have you got the head trammed-it would have had to be in a serious crash to be that far out-Hope you put your DTI onto the arbor shaft-ran it up and down as well revolving it-dont put it on the saw blade as if the blade is bent it might get you thinking its the arbors fault