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Slitting saws, round vs. keyed arbor holes

Cannonmn

Stainless
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
I’ve never used a slitting saw but will need to do so soon, using horizontal mills, and as always will consider tooling onhand before buying anything. We have many different blades with key slots which will fit the keyed horizontal mill arbors. Other slitting saws we’ve accumulated have smooth round arbor holes and I know that special, short arbors are available to hold those in vertical mills.

But is it possible to use the smooth round hole blades in horizontal mills? Would I have to make a custom arbor for that or what? Or “forget it, keyslot saw blades are the only option for sideways mills.“
 
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In my experience you can use smooth round hole slitting saws on keyed arbors without the keys.
If the cutting forces aren't high the blade won't slip.
 
In my experience you can use smooth round hole slitting saws on keyed arbors without the keys.
If the cutting forces aren't high the blade won't slip.

And some regard a thin slipping blade preferable to a keyed one shattering in a jam up - which they will.


Tip ;- make sure spacers collars and washers etc etc and especially those that but up against the saw blade are flat or even better - slightly hollow on their end faces.
 
And some regard a thin slipping blade preferable to a keyed one shattering in a jam up - which they will.


Tip ;- make sure spacers collars and washers etc etc and especially those that but up against the saw blade are flat or even better - slightly hollow on their end faces.

I’m guessing a Mild steel washer with sawtooth-type profiles on both sides would be overkill. Big spring-type lock-washers? That’s so obvious I’m guessing it has been tried and failed.


Thx Sami, I have to remark that over the past few years I’ve been asking questions, your info seems to have been nearly the best I’ve gotten, always seems to get results. Thanks.
 
The "slipping blade" as a safety measure works on a hand-cranked Bridgeport but not on a powered cut. If you have arbor spacers with key clearance, use a Dremel to grind a keyway in the saw and let the key pass through both sides.

Some will call it overkill but they say the same about ER collets with a tap-driving square.
 
Not exactly on topic but I've always had more success conventional milling with thin slitting saws. Just thought I'd share. I'm sure the community will have something to say one way or the other about my preference - either way we will all learn from the discussion.
 
thin slitting saw will work without key, provided direction is right in relation to nut.
 
I'd be a bit concerned about the saw slipping and damaging the arbor. I had one hang up, it cut the key and the arbor.
 
Horizontal or vertical shouldn't matter. We run keyless saws fairly often(3" diameter x.125" thickness and under). Just make sure everything is tight.
 








 
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