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Solid V-Belt or segmentted belt for drill press?


The one you linked is NEITHER "solid" nor "linked". See Fenner, et al for those and LOWER your expectations for serious use.

The one linked is "solid" as to "continuous", but in the "gripnotch" family.

Made with "inside" relief notches so as to distort the sidewalls less when wrapped around a sheave highly undersized from optimal. As shiddy-liddle Dee Pee DO on their worst-end cone-pulleys. And near-as-dammit ALWAYS.

Go do yer homework. Gates rubber site and "not only"for engineering expectations and belt type / pulley size performance.

Get your tax dollars back, even!:

https://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy13osti/56012.pdf.

Or go ogle "Goodyear gatorback vee belt":

Advance Auto Parts - Goodyear Gatorback V-Belt

You want to do something USEFUL? Convert your DP to MicroVee/PolyVee AKA "serpentine" belt. Cheaper than a "toothed belt".

Those are waaaay better at wrapping around too-DAMNED-tiny sheave diameters and still transmitting useful power.

Auto industry is "cheapskaticious". Not necessarily the same as "stoopiditious".

Serpentine JFW. By the hundreds of millions of units... over many long years. Already.

Cheaper way to improve a DP is to apply a VFD or DC Drive. Then abandon regular use of the extreme smallest end on each of the cone/step pulleys.

:D
 
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You'll be happier with a solid belt, my link belts are noisy.

I'll second that.

I have a cogged belt on my mill. It's loud. I had a link belt (fenner) after I rebuilt it, and I was getting a knocking , I switched to a kevlar belt, and there was a horrible set in the belt and it was noisy and you could hear the mis-shapened part when cutting. Which led me to believe not good for cutting.

I still have the cog belt, and recently have been thinking of replacing it with new plain belts. I wear heaing protection at times when it gets to me..

So why do you need a cogged or link belt?
 
So why do you need a cogged or link belt?

Who? Ron?

You mean why NOT the belt the maker of the DP recommends?

Because he can ask the PM community to do the research for him at no cost but awaiting return of the many answers.

Any of us EVER needed a different reason not to take advantage of "extra brains, for FREE!"?

Not as if our own brains were ever in SURPLUS were it?

Oh. .well... not until some OTHER Pilgrim asks a question, anyway.

THEN we gots LOTS to say!

You'd have to know human nature [1]?

:D

[1]

Q: So, tell me, why does a PM Member always answer a question with ANOTHER question?

A: So. why should a PM Member NOT answer a question with another question?
 
My low cost (cheap?) Delta bench-top drill press was noisy and vibrating with the factory solid belt(cheap?). I replaced the belt with the red, segmented belt that has no metal. Stopped the noise and vibration, and has run for several years without problems.
 
I have a couple of those AX style belts on my drill press. No real difference compared to normal V belts other than the fact that they wrap around small pulleys better (slip a bit less).

I avoid link belts like the plague, never had any success with them. They are useful for getting an accurate belt length for ordering a proper belt though, used them for that a couple of times.
 
People think link belts are good because they are usually comparing them with the worn out belts they are replacing. They are ok for emergency use, but a poor substitute for a new V or cogged V belt.
 
I agree. One minor pedantic point that might help though - those AX/BX belts aren't cogged (like automotive timing belts are cogged), they're relieved a bit on the pointy side so that the belt can wrap around a smaller pulley without changing (bulging I guess) the shape of the sides of the V that grip the pulley. The part that grips the pulley on both normal V belts and the AX/BX style is the same, with maybe a bit less surface area on the AX/BX style. Eg.
IMG_0199.jpg
 
People think link belts are good because they are usually comparing them with the worn out belts they are replacing. They are ok for emergency use, but a poor substitute for a new V or cogged V belt.

yes and no. I use the link belts on some of my woodworking machines. They do get rid of vibration, especially on machines that sit for long periods. Rather than take a set like a normal belt the linked ones don't. But they are louder. If machine gets regular use it can stay with a regular belt.

The link belts are great for emergency repairs too like you said. It will get a machine back up and running. I keep a few different belts, A and B.

Fenner does not do A, I had to get mine from HF.. go figure. My B belts are fenner belts.

There is another nice thing about the link belt, if you break a belt, and have a belt , it still may require some time consuming work to get it installed, the link belt you just reduce tension , wrap around and re-tension...
so you are up in no time, just the time to figure out how many links to add or remove.
 
Put a round "O" ring type on it, I got mine from motion industries but they are available elsewhere, they are streatchy and will drive that .026 drill bit just fine with little or no vibration
 
We have one machine that uses the link belts(not with metal rivets) and I have never noticed any noise. In this case it would be a 2-3 hr job to put a one piece belt on. One old crankshaft grinder hand told me they always used link belts because they were smoother.

The notched belts also run cooler and on high speeds they are less likely to roll over,less inside mass. That's all we use on our scrap blowers about 20-30, 40-50hp units.

If you look at a raw edge belt the reinforcement cords should be just under the outside cover.That is a premium belt. If the cord is in the middle that is a cheaper belt. When the belts are cut from the tube stock they don't throw away the scrap between the belts. They can get twice as many center cord belts as premium by turning scrap inside out. The scrap from premium belts is usually wrapped with a cover and sold as FHP belts.
 








 
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