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Source for flat bottom drill?

You’re not going to find any real deals. Is a 5/16 endmill close enough? Drill it regular and spotface the bottom.
 
YG-1 Dream Drills for aluminum are a lot cheaper, I think I saw $85 for a 3/8" flat bottom drill a few days ago from Suncoast Tools, probably even cheaper from a dealer. I have not run these but I'm interested to hear what you think if you try one
 
Because you make the rockin world go around?

(Ok, my brain is fried from too much work, but that was my first thought...)

L7
 
When I want to drill a flat bottomed hole I use a center cutting, end milling cutter. They will leave a very slight convex bottom (the center will be just a few thousandths higher), but for most purposes it will be flat. You will need a rigid set-up because there is no centering action with these milling cutters as a normal twist drill will have. You could probably do it on a good drill press with a vise bolted down, in place, but a milling machine would be better.

When I want to create a counterbore for a bolt, like a socket head cap screw, I use a DeWalt style bullet drill for the first operation at the hole's location and follow up with a body sized drill or whatever smaller size is needed. Again, the edges will drill just a bit deeper than the area closer to the center, but for most purposes it is OK. And SHCSs fit just fine. They are a LOT less expensive than proper counterbores. Again, the trick is to bore the larger, counterbore FIRST, not afterwards like with an actual counterbore. I have done this many times and the result is always satisfactory. I have an index of these bullet style drills that I mainly use for this purpose. I have also slightly rounded the outer corners of these drills to produce a small radius at the inside corner of the counterbores. I think this reduces the stress at that point as a sharp corner is usually a stress riser. I used a hand stone to do this.

If you need a truly flat bottom, then the less expensive way is with a boring bar. If you do that a lot, consider getting a boring head. Of course, this does not work well for real small holes.

You could also make some gun drills.
 
Looking for a 5/16" flat bottom drill for an upcoming project. Realize I could re-grind an existing one but want the real thing.

The only supplier I can find is Kennametal: B77_FBG (~3 x D) • B77_FBS (~3 x D) • B77_FBL (~3 x D) • KC7315 / KN15 / KCMS15 • A-Shank • Flat Bottom Drills

It's for 7075, all I need is HSS and these are $165, any ideas?

It is ok to order tooling most do not grind everything. I do not like grinding drills that are too small unless I have no choice. That price would make me do them probably though. Gee whiz! KM would likely have a good drill though. I have always considered them high , no shops I worked in used them much.
 
Thanks for the reply's.

It's basically a 2" long 3/8" piece of 7075 rod, drilled to a flat 31/32" from each end to leave a 1/16" stop in the middle. I've bored them on the lathe before but that has a definite PITA factor.

Any idea if these things will drill fairly straight to 3D going straight in?

I'll check out OSG, Nachi and YG-1!

ps: Here's the OSG product flyer: http://www.osgtool.com/_branding/books/800280CA-V2/resources/_pdfs_/800280CA-V2__.pdf
 
The Nachi comes in a lot of flavors. Stub, 3xd, 5xd, extended reach, coolant through etc. The Nachi will work great but I imagine it is somewhere between the Kennametal & the YG depending on what you choose.

The YG-1 is only a 2xD tool.
 
The Nachi comes in a lot of flavors. Stub, 3xd, 5xd, extended reach, coolant through etc. The Nachi will work great but I imagine it is somewhere between the Kennametal & the YG depending on what you choose.

The YG-1 is only a 2xD tool.

It looks like the Nachi series: "Aqua Drill EX Flat" have 6mm shanks for the 5/16" drill, plus the near C$500 price tag takes it outta my league.

Holemaking > Drilling > Solid Carbide Drills > L9819 Carbide AQUA EX FLAT NON-COOLANT FRACTIONAL | 5/16″ Dia. - Aqua EX Jobber-Carbide-drill-bits | AC86148936


OSG around C$120:

DGI Supply - 5/16" OSG EXOCARB ADF Stub Length Carbide Flat Drill, 2XD, EgiAs Coating, Series 57, 5731211, OSG5731211

YG probably about the same with a phone call:

TryHard Industrial


Kennamaetal about C$200:

Holemaking > Drilling > Solid Carbide Drills > B77_FBG (3 x D) B77_FBS (3 x D) B77_FBL (3 x D) KC7315 / KN15 A-Shank Flat Bottom Drills | B77A7938FBG KC7315 SC DRILL Flat 7.938mm/.3125/ 3xD COOLANT | KM8355137

I'm sure the OSG and YG will go 3D with some pecking. Also learned that it's best to spot drill first when starting on a flat surface...
 
Just so you know that price is bogus on the Nachi. I would sell that here in the US for $125.26.

The YG I would sell for less than $50 here so it might be worth a call to your supplier if they have the length needed.
 
I get buying one so it is "right", but what about grinding the end flat on a regular drill using a v-block so you know it is flat and square, etc, then hand grinding the clearance?
 
A couple of thoughts come to mind:

Given the fractional dimensions and if those really are the requirements, this needs some wood working techniques thrown at it.

Use a collet with a stop to hold your parts. If no collet chuck then make some chuck jaws that let you control depth. If sawn length is not good enough, chuck them and face the end of each while the carriage is locked. While the part is there for each end, drill with the tailstock and a 1/4 drill using a stop collar that just slides over the drill and as soon as it spins you know you’ve hit the bottom. (thats the woodworking part) For the third handling of the part, use a 5/16 end mill in the tailstock and a collar set just right so that when it spins your depth is done. If the bottom needs to be flatter than that, have someone grind an end mill flat on the bottom. In this set up it will cut like a boring bar and your concentricity will be way better than needed for a job specced in fractions.
 
Qt: [ Realize I could re-grind an existing one but want the real thing.]
That is a lot of money and it likely wont be better than what Mike said in post 16.

You can find a cutter grinding shop to make a good number of flat bottoms drills for that price.
 
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Whenever I wanted a flat bottom drill I just took an ordinary drill and ground it flat then backed it off on the grindstone. One of the things I learnt as an apprentice. Be sure to just take the sharp edge off with a fine stone.

Regards Tyrone.
 
That might be the list price in Canadian money.... maybe lol what's the exchange rate?

About 25% right now, I'll make some calls tomorrow...

I get buying one so it is "right", but what about grinding the end flat on a regular drill using a v-block so you know it is flat and square, etc, then hand grinding the clearance?

Ya, I get that. I want a "proper" drill tho so it cuts on size and I can do the drilling in one op.

Going to set it up in the mill with my 5C collet holder block and a quill stop, should be a bunch easier than drilling and boring on the lathe.
 








 
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