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Source for quality Bridgeport lead screws?

beeser

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 3, 2015
I plan to replace the lead screws on my Bridgeport mill. Any recommendations on a source of good quality ACME lead screws? Any made in the US?
 
I’ve used HQT lead screws for a Bridgeport and had good success. I think HW Machine sells them. I don’t know if they are made in the US or not.

I think I still have a set of nuts for x and y if someone needs them. My mill used a different style of nuts.
 
A quality lead screw suggests an accurately ground thread so you can get good positioning accuracy. A cheap ROLLED THREAD screw will not get precision location but certainly is uniform enough to adjust for whatever backlash suits your fancy . . . and is uniform from one end to the other. Any mechanic knows that the backlash can be adjusted out of a lead screw IF IT IS UNIFORM over it's length.
 
OP here with a little background to my question ...
My Bridgeport currently has a set of ball screws from the original Mill Power conversion, which was removed by the previous owner. It is now strictly a manual machine. The screws are longer than standard because of the MP setup but I've been able to use it as is. I recently acquired a Bridgeport 6F power feed that probably won't work without some modification to the x-axis screw. So, I thought now would be a good time to just get a new set of lead screws to make everything fit as it should. The machine has an Acu-Rite DRO. I'm relatively new to machining and a hobbyist. My reasoning behind getting an ACME threaded lead screw instead of another ball screw setup is 1) it costs less, 2) I have never operated a mill with ACME threaded lead screws and 3) at least one of the benefits of having ball screws seems to go away if a DRO is installed. The only reason I included "quality" in my qualifier is I don't want some cheap Chinese stuff that is going to present more problems than solutions. I'm aware of the ACME lead screws from H&W but haven't inquired yet where they are made. They seem to have decent prices and offer the length x-axis screw for my Bridgeport power feed. They also appear to have everything else needed for the conversion. Well, that's it in a nutshell. Any thoughts and suggestions are appreciated, just don't beat me over the head because I'm a newb.
 
I think I would make what I have work. If the ballnut works properly, just machine what you have to work with the powerfeed you allready have the parts.
I prefer ballscrews as there is very little backlash. Just remember to lock the ways that you are not moving while milling it can wander when milling.
 
I think I would make what I have work. If the ballnut works properly, just machine what you have to work with the powerfeed you allready have the parts.
I prefer ballscrews as there is very little backlash. Just remember to lock the ways that you are not moving while milling it can wander when milling.

That would be ideal but 1) it would require knowing what dimensions and features need to be machined, 2) it would require having the experience and knowledge to perform the work and 3) an operable mill for some of the work. I'm sure there are drawing out there that show the proper dimensions, etc. but as a newb machinist I don't feel comfortable with all of the operations required. Also, with the mill torn apart some of the operations won't be possible.
 
Isn't hardinge making Bridgeport parts today? I think that's where I ordered some replacement draw bars.

Yes. Well, at least they bought them. Sometimes that's not the same thing.......:eek:
IIRC there are also third parties making Bport and Bport clone parts since a lot of them interchange.
 
It's not uncommon for someone to buy a Bridgeport, and install a Prototrak on it. Which leaves a brand new set of screws and nuts laying around gathering dust.

I think the last set I saw went to a junior college for a quicky rebuild.

Might be worth asking around, running an ad.
 
I have a Summit milling machine that I had to replace the X axis lead screw and nut. I was using it one day and the lead screw locked up. When I finally was able to get it apart I found the brass nut was completely stripped. I found a 6’ piece of 1 1/4” acme thread rod and a couple nuts to fit at McMaster Carr. Think both pieces were less than $100. I had to cut it to length, machine both ends to accept the hand wheels and power feed. Got it back together and I have about .020” backlash. Works great the full length of the table.


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