squaring and deburring plate

pepo · Sep 11, 2006

On the job I make a lot of holding fixtures and drill jigs. So I am constantly squaring plates both aluminum and steel. Usually its in a 6 inch Kurt, you know the routine,end mill one long side,deburr it.Flip it,end mill the other side parellel,deburr it. Down in the vise to side mill one end,deburr it. Flip it ,side mill the other end,deburr it. All the filing is a PITA. Any one use the deburring tools that supposedly burr the edge and put a break on in one stroke? Looks like a screwdriver kind of.

cruzinonline · Sep 11, 2006

Yeah the handle stuff works pretty good especially on round stuff. Just swing it around. On straight edges, so so. It can crab and slip and mark the machine face and if it slips at the wrong time you get a nasty cut on the finger.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1746043&PMT4NO=11617630

however, what we did get was a bevel tool. It uses a carbide cutter and can be set to shave a 1/64 up to 3/16. Works fast when you have a lot of deburring to do and does well on chamfers. There are rings that we roll that need a 1/8 x 45 bevel so we run it through the machine and then roll it. Works real well, is a table mount, and about the size of a printer.

Something like this but it is a table mount. Looks like a router.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1801716&PMT4NO=11617681

blackboat · Sep 11, 2006

Not trying to be a smart-a$$ here; I find a good stationary belt sander to be quite helpful for getting rid of a lot of burrs on non-critical things. Like a lot of tools, the more you use it, the better it works.

For real pretty, I still use a file to avoid any slips (not that I've ever done that; just been told it could happen

)

Main adavantage to me is I have two belt sanders looking for work, and no cash or reason for a Burr Beaver or some such dedicated machine.

My experience with the Noga/Shaviv type pencil tools is about like cruizin's.

Rob

wiz · Sep 11, 2006

get a dynabrade dynafile/

http://www.dynabrade.com/cgi-bin/Industrial/14000?MCQRLbDK;;21

the noga deburing tools work great.

the noga indicator stands are the best.

wiz

EPC · Sep 11, 2006

Pepo
We use large (12 collet mm) variable speed router mounted upside down to a metal table top a adjustable guide 25 thick about 300 mm long is mounted close to the cutter By adjusting the cutter up/down and moving the guide all chamfers can be cut The cutter we use is solid carbide with a 90o inc end. This works very well.
Bill

Motomoron · Sep 11, 2006

I've never had a problem with the Vargus/Noga/Shaviv tools *provided* I use the correct blade. There's a lot of different blades...

I keep a few of those and an Exacto with a #11 blade on the bench always.

My secret weapon is an 8" x 1" medium density fine grit nylon mesh abrasive wheel. It's one end of a Baldor buffer. I keep an 8" spiral sewn cloth buff with rouge on the other. On parts where a surface finish isn't called out and you're looking for "tidy and attractive" it's very, very quick and effective. If you don't dig sharp corners into them they last a long time, and while they can blend and smooth, with a quick pass they debur beautifully.

Jon Bohlander · Sep 12, 2006

I bought a Noga deburring kit and this tool is good if you don't have a nasty burr:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1746067&PMT4NO=0

This is the kit:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1746102&PMT4NO=0

I mainly use the triangular scraper and the countersink. If you get one you'll probably want extra handles so you don't have to switch back and forth.

For the nasty burrs, I have the tip of a file ground into a scraper. Scrape off the burr and file a chamfer with one tool.

For the "more power" approach, a right angle die grinder with Roloc sanding discs also works well.

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