Stankoimport 6P12 drawbar pull stud
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  1. #1
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    Default Stankoimport 6P12 drawbar pull stud

    Hi, I have some problems identifying what kind of pull stud I need for my Stankoimport 6P12 (mid 80's).
    It has an electromechanical tool clamp device.
    This is how it looks like inside:
    http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...-fres-innv.jpg

    I have searched all over to find a suitable pull stud, but can't find anything that will fit.
    So if one of you know what it's named or even better, got one for spare...

    Terje

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    Terje,

    Here is apic of the pull studs for my Stanko 6720B tool room mill, circa 1987, with the electric closer.

    http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...20stud/019.jpg The one on the left is threaded 16mm and the right hand one is imperial thread. These are the original Stanko ones. The ruler is metric.

    While the mill is not the same model as yours the electric closer probably is. The spindle nose is ISO 40. I have had no luck trying to get more pull studs so I made some from 4140.

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    Thank you for replying :-)
    I can't see how this will fit mine.
    If you se my picture, it seems like it should be "opposite ".?
    My spindle size is 50.


    Quote Originally Posted by Peter F View Post
    Terje,

    Here is apic of the pull studs for my Stanko 6720B tool room mill, circa 1987, with the electric closer.

    http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...20stud/019.jpg The one on the left is threaded 16mm and the right hand one is imperial thread. These are the original Stanko ones. The ruler is metric.

    While the mill is not the same model as yours the electric closer probably is. The spindle nose is ISO 40. I have had no luck trying to get more pull studs so I made some from 4140.

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    Quote Originally Posted by panasync View Post
    Thank you for replying :-)
    I can't see how this will fit mine.
    If you se my picture, it seems like it should be "opposite ".?
    My spindle size is 50.
    Have you had the mechanism apart to see how it works?. From your photo in your first post it looks very similar to mine. I can see the round piece which is the ejecting anvil plus one of the balls which grips the underneath surface of the stud. On mine there are three balls. When I insert an arbor with pull stud into the spindle, the top surface pushes up the ejector which allows the balls to get under the stud. when the button is pushed to activate the mechanism the electric motor spins the quick-thread sleeve up with the balls under the head of the pull stud and hammers like an impact driver. Two bangs are enough. There is an adjustable "air exhaust" valve on the relevant contactor which should stop the motor after two impacts.
    When the eject button is pushed the motor runs in reverse and the quick-thread sleeve unscrews, the ejector clouts the top of the stud , the balls retract and the arbor is released.
    Mine of course is 40 INT but the principle will probably be the same, the shape of the stud will probably be the same, the thread will be different for the 50INT of yours and perhaps the general size will be proportionally larger. Have you a pull stud you could copy?.

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    Here the guide for this type of machine 6Р12 (6R12 transliteration) with some drawings and sections, but they are in Russian, most likely translation on paper form does not exist as such.
    Maybe some kind of information you can find there

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter F View Post
    Have you had the mechanism apart to see how it works?. From your photo in your first post it looks very similar to mine. I can see the round piece which is the ejecting anvil plus one of the balls which grips the underneath surface of the stud. On mine there are three balls. When I insert an arbor with pull stud into the spindle, the top surface pushes up the ejector which allows the balls to get under the stud. when the button is pushed to activate the mechanism the electric motor spins the quick-thread sleeve up with the balls under the head of the pull stud and hammers like an impact driver. Two bangs are enough. There is an adjustable "air exhaust" valve on the relevant contactor which should stop the motor after two impacts.
    When the eject button is pushed the motor runs in reverse and the quick-thread sleeve unscrews, the ejector clouts the top of the stud , the balls retract and the arbor is released.
    Mine of course is 40 INT but the principle will probably be the same, the shape of the stud will probably be the same, the thread will be different for the 50INT of yours and perhaps the general size will be proportionally larger. Have you a pull stud you could copy?.
    Thanks for good explenation, but I can't see how this works like you described.
    This is a bad movie I made with my telephone.
    This is when I try to lock it, and looked for balls
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwdV...e_gdata_player

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    Quote Originally Posted by RaZen View Post
    Here the guide for this type of machine 6Р12 (6R12 transliteration) with some drawings and sections, but they are in Russian, most likely translation on paper form does not exist as such.
    Maybe some kind of information you can find there
    Thanks, I will check it out :-)

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    You may have a broken off pull stud.

    So trying to pull on the flats with long nose pliers once the drawbar is released.

    The pictures are not clear enough to be sure.

    I have worked on a Stanko Horiz. boring mill years ago. The pull studs were similar to those in post #2, but for 50 taper.

    Bill

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    I am inclined to agree with Bill that there could be a broken stud shank in there.
    I have scanned the relevant pages in my workshop manual and will give word for word the description of how the thing works. It is too difficult to scan the description without dismantling the manual, and that is a major job in itself!.

    http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...92013_0000.jpg
    http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...92013_0001.jpg

    The description is as follows-(my manual is in English)--Drawbar 10 serves to secure the tool in the spindle 1. The threaded end of the drawbar is engaged with nut 8. As the nut is turned, the drawbar is axially moved in the spindle clamping the tool shank 16 through the medium of balls 15. To transfer the rotary movement of the nut 8 into the translator motion of the drawbar 10, use is made of the key 17 mounted on the spindle 1.
    The nut is turned by flywheel 3. As the flywheel revolves, two levers 30 arranged in its rim are caused by the centrifugal forces to turn on pivots 19 and engage the projection of bushing 7 keyed onto nut 8.
    The flywheel 3 derives rotation from motor 4 through elastic coupling 5.
    When the motor and, consequently, the nut 8 rotate in the opposite direction, the tool is unclamped.

    This is the vertical spindle. The horizontal spindle closer works the same way, the separate electric motor drive the drawbar through a bevel gear.
    There are drawings for the horizontal closer which I could scan if this would help but the description of the workings of it are virtually word for word with the vertical spindle.
    You can see that when the drawbar is in the unclamped position the balls can move outward thus letting the pull stud past them. It is quite ingenious albeit complicated. As yet I have had no problems with it.

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    Hi, first of all thanks for bearing with me and helping a rookie out
    I did run the unclamping sequence today, and then the tap in the middle came down about 5cm.
    And suddenly it fell down even more 2cm(like it lost the threads).
    Then I tried with pliers, but I can't get it out, I can only push it in(up).
    Also if I try to run clamp sequence, nothing happens until I lift it a couple of cm, then it will engage and it keeps going up.
    I had not read this last post when I tried this, so I will give it a go more when I get the chance. If it wount budge with a set of bigger pliers, I will have to dismount the unit and get a closer look.

    Unfortunately I had to go on a business trip today, so can't check anymore the next two weeks. Hopefully it's just a broken pull stud hanging in there as you mentioned, but I have my doubt..
    It almost seems like the pull stud should be opposite?

    Anyone of you guys that can take a picture inside yours, without any pull stud?

    http://bildr.no/view/Ymt5V3Vu

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter F View Post
    I am inclined to agree with Bill that there could be a broken stud shank in there.
    I have scanned the relevant pages in my workshop manual and will give word for word the description of how the thing works. It is too difficult to scan the description without dismantling the manual, and that is a major job in itself!.

    http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...92013_0000.jpg
    http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b7...92013_0001.jpg

    The description is as follows-(my manual is in English)--Drawbar 10 serves to secure the tool in the spindle 1. The threaded end of the drawbar is engaged with nut 8. As the nut is turned, the drawbar is axially moved in the spindle clamping the tool shank 16 through the medium of balls 15. To transfer the rotary movement of the nut 8 into the translator motion of the drawbar 10, use is made of the key 17 mounted on the spindle 1.
    The nut is turned by flywheel 3. As the flywheel revolves, two levers 30 arranged in its rim are caused by the centrifugal forces to turn on pivots 19 and engage the projection of bushing 7 keyed onto nut 8.
    The flywheel 3 derives rotation from motor 4 through elastic coupling 5.
    When the motor and, consequently, the nut 8 rotate in the opposite direction, the tool is unclamped.

    This is the vertical spindle. The horizontal spindle closer works the same way, the separate electric motor drive the drawbar through a bevel gear.
    There are drawings for the horizontal closer which I could scan if this would help but the description of the workings of it are virtually word for word with the vertical spindle.
    You can see that when the drawbar is in the unclamped position the balls can move outward thus letting the pull stud past them. It is quite ingenious albeit complicated. As yet I have had no problems with it.

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    Default Stanko milling

    Hello,

    I have an Stankoimport 6M76P, seem to be missing some gears or sprocets on the gearbox, anyone know about these machines and know where to find parts?


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