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Steel tubing type for tractor tie rod

akajun

Stainless
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Location
Brusly, LA
Somehow my brother bent the tie rod on our John Deere tractor I think he hit a stump but who the hell knows
I’ve straightened it to get me by for now but it’s worn flat in spots where it was rubbing after it bent and he kept using it
Deere does not sell just the tube only the assembly which is 350$
Old rod is 1.250 od and .930 Id, just under 3”3 feet long . threaded on both ends
Should I use 1018 or would moving up to cromoly provide any worthwhile benefit.
 
I have replaced a few just using of the shelf dom tubing.
something has to give in a bind and tie rods are cheaper than spindles.
 
Chro-mo will be somewhat stronger, but if there's no signs of mechanical failure other than the bend you may not gain anything from using it. I'd go with whatever you can get cheapest, maybe make two while you're set up for it.

Are the ends swaged, or are they direct tapped into the straight bore?
 
Direct tapped
Threaded about 2” deep on each end
May even just cut the ends off and weld them on a new tube
Our old tractors tie rod was made that way
Prob be quicker than single pointing both ends
 
May even just cut the ends off and weld them on a new tube
Our old tractors tie rod was made that way
Prob be quicker than single pointing both ends

Go for it. This is a low-speed application, if the weld fails there shouldn't be any huge risk. Unless...

Does this tractor ever go on public roads? In that case, maybe it would be better to stay with threading the new tube.
 
I have a couple of Ford tractors.
On my 3000 with power steering to replace the rear tie rod end you have to buy the complete drag link. I just bought the rear tie rod end from a non PS model, cut the old one off and welded the new one on. Cost was about $15 instead of over $200. I ground it nice and used a bit of bondo. Then prime and paint. It's been at least 15 years since I did that and no problems.
On my tractor you do need to note where the rod ends point. Mine are about 90 degrees apart, some are 180 so check that. Maybe my drawing will help show what I mean.20210619_143750.jpg.
 
I have a couple of Ford tractors.
On my 3000 with power steering to replace the rear tie rod end you have to buy the complete drag link. I just bought the rear tie rod end from a non PS model, cut the old one off and welded the new one on. Cost was about $15 instead of over $200. I ground it nice and used a bit of bondo. Then prime and paint. It's been at least 15 years since I did that and no problems.
On my tractor you do need to note where the rod ends point. Mine are about 90 degrees apart, some are 180 so check that. Maybe my drawing will help show what I mean.View attachment 323235.
That’s not important on mine
This is the bar that connects the two knuckles and adjusts toe in
The tie rod end direction is not important
 
If you can get some tube with an ID of 1.25 the you can cut off the old threaded ends, slide then inside the new tube and weld them in.
 
All steel tubing of the same dimensions will display similar stiffness in bending, High strength alloys etc will carry a greater loading before deformation, but they will be more difficult to straighten.

As long as there are more than about 6 threads engaged in the working ends, no alloy offers superior characteristics in regard to "strength", in this application.
 
It may be cheaper to buy solid rod and drill and tap the ends. The extra weight should not be a big deal on a farm tractor. Or use smaller diameter solid rod of equal strength and weld threaded sleeves onto the ends.
Bill D
 
Somehow my brother bent the tie rod on our John Deere tractor

Ya, that's what keeps happening to me. It's my damn brother.

I've always used 4130 for tie rods. Could be overkill.
 
Somehow my brother bent the tie rod on our John Deere tractor

Ya, that's what keeps happening to me. It's my damn brother.

I've always used 4130 for tie rods. Could be overkill.

Overkill means something more expensive breaks next time. You need a fuse in the system. Make it a cheaper part.

Ed.
 








 
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