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Stern tube repair/in situ line boring

Hbjj

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Location
Washington st
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Anyone done this before
My main concern is alignment of my bar to the trans flange
I've read about taught wire and I can see how that would get the bar pointed at the flange but I can't see how that would get the bar squared with the flange
Or maybe it doesn't need to be?
 
If you go to YouTube and search line boring, there are some videos that cover different size boats to ships. The equipment to do the job can be made or purchased.
 
if the engine is in the right spot to start with you can clock off the transmission flange both on the face and spigot, once you do this you will see how central the shaft is to the tube.
you can move the engine around a bit if needed but thats a lot of mucking around to do so expect to do this in the worst case.
just use a dial indicator and collar the boring shaft so it doesn't move back and forth axially, you can even make a mating flange to suit gearbox to the boring shaft and bolt it up but expect some droop due to weight of the shaft which will be reasonably long.
It maybe a method if your chasing a situation where the engine is out of alignment by a lot and trying to get the shaft central to the stern tube, well reasonably close. Just so you know the transmission flange will be in alignment to the bore you make.
 
My plan so far is to set up my bar in the center for the stern tube and with a laser get it pointed at the center of the transmission flange
 
I found some misalignment with the stuffing
box/motor/trans 20181210_082557.jpg
So now we are moving the motor/transmission and stuffing box over about .5
That should center everything up nice
20181210_092557.jpg
 
I'm cutting now
Had to make two bearings to go in the bore no way it was going to work without 20181211_091903.jpg
Looks like a previous repair sleeve 20181211_112023.jpg
 
So my bearings didn't work as well as I hoped
I'm getting chatter past about 12 inches
So new plan
20181212_123859.jpg20181212_124504.jpg
It has course adjust with the 3/8 set screws
And final adjust/clamping with the 1/2 square heads
Getting it 17 inches down the bore and adjusted will be fun
Some cutting pics
20181211_135007.jpg
20181212_130126.jpg
 
I'm no boat guru but I think the reduction gear box does
The motor is a cat 340820181212_123347.jpg
The current state of the bore20181212_132305.jpg
Tomorrow will be a better day
I hope...
 
The gearbox is what the boring bar is thrusting against? If one end of that bar is not fixed it will chatter. We used to have a collar clamped to the bar with a nylatron washer between it and the collar that the bar turned in.
 
The gearbox is what the boring bar is thrusting against?
Traditionally, the prop shaft thrusts against the gearbox.

However, if doing all this work I would not do it that way. I have a study around here somewhere where they installed an actual thrust bearing, then ran u-joints on a short shaft between the gearbox and the prop shaft. They then put the engine on soft mounts designed like those in an automobile. The engine could now shake its ass off without using the boat as a sounding board. Noise and vibration were reduced by 50% or more.

Pretty impressive improvement for a fairly simple modification and you no longer have the alignment nightmare. If you're re-doing the driveline anyway ...
 
The gearbox is likely to far away and of questionable rigidity for the boring bar. If the bar does not have one end fixed rigidly in the bore then that's likely the source of the chatter.
 
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Gear box
My boring bar is in a bearing at the stuffing box that is 70+ inches away from wear I'm cutting
My down bore bearing is working well 20181213_081527.jpg
 
So the boring bar is driven by a old pipe threader
And feed is a shop made deal it works good I added the electric drive to it
I don't have the patience to turn a handle for that long 20181213_125907.jpg
 








 
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