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STRONG magnetic V-Blocks, any good brands?

Doozer

Doozer

Titanium
Joined
Jul 23, 2001
Location
Buffalo NY
0129237-23.jpg


Was looking for some import magnetic V blocks.
Reason I am posting this, is that number one,
I have seen/used Brown&Sharpe magnetic V blocks, magnets, and mag chucks, and all the B&S magnets I have used seem very weak. Anyone agree or disagree with this?
So secondly, I would like to buy a set of magnetic V blocks, for the surface plate and for fixturing on the surface grinder. It is difficult to tell if anything magnetic is strong or weak unless you try it out. So it is a crapshoot ordering from a catalog or from ebay. I do not want to spend $$ for Suburban or similar name brand (definitely not B&S), so have you all found any decently strong magnetic import V blocks? If they need re-grinding to be super accurate, no problem. Just looking for something with a strong magnet.
While on the same subject, any good strong magnetic indicator bases, brands you can recommend? I know Noga arms are the best, I get that. But how about strong bases?
Thanks!
--Doozer
 
I have never found magnetic vee blocks for holding round objects I was happy with compared to flat magnets. IIRC magnetic strength falls off as the cube of the distance. With a round shaft against a flat surface, there is not much material within the magnetic field of the surface.
 
^ yeah, because of only the point contact your fundamentally going against how magnatism works, like it or not but your never going to grip the part hard that way. A typical chuck bounces the feild several times through the part, V blocks bounce it a max of once!

Mitutoyo will be about as good as you will get IMHO.
 
I have a cheapo no-name china brand mag base that is pretty dang strong! It has a stronger pull (by feel, don't know the actual numbers) than my old no 657 Starret mag base. It is about 1.5x the size of the Starret though...
 
I have one I bought from the unmentionable bear, that has a pretty strong magnet. Ran an indicator over and around the important stuff when I got it, and it was all good within half a thou. I didn't buy it for "tenths" work, merely for chamfers and other not too critical stuff, but I'm happy with it.
 
The question is, I am looking for a strong magnetic V block.
I am NOT concerned how magnetism attracts round objects, not
the scope of what I am asking.
I am actually wanting to hold flat objects on the bottom of
the V block, where there is a very small V and some parallel
slots. Want to use it like a poor man's toolmaker knee.
You say big bear sells a good one?

-Doozer
 
Doozer said:
The question is, I am looking for a strong magnetic V block.
I am NOT concerned how magnetism attracts round objects, not
the scope of what I am asking.
I am actually wanting to hold flat objects on the bottom of
the V block, where there is a very small V and some parallel
slots. Want to use it like a poor man's toolmaker knee.
You say big bear sells a good one?

-Doozer
Click to expand...

I'm happy with it, for what i bought it for. I bought it through amazon last fall and have used it probably 10-15 times now. It was around $60cdn, which is probably around $9us these days, I'm sure you can find one cheaper down there, we always get hosed on the import stuff.
 
With any magnetic base or V block I put a block-in Block high on the part on the go side. Block-in should bump part just below wheel grind target.

A 123 block or angle plate with a C clamped arm can be good for a high touch stop.

Never tried that brand but such a simple device they should be fine after checking for square or tweaking in if needed..I would tweak them to .0002 (or so) for V and sides..But yes the depends on the need.

B&S magnet block and Vs seemed Ok IMHO.
I use a B&S 5-10 permanent mag chuck off my 6-18 chuck for squaring parts. The base width and top side width are the same.. but should be tweaked to .0002 or better for this use..
 
Depending on your application this may work better than a magnetic Vee. The tapped holes are for toe straps.

Gene
 

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I am NOT looking for the best around,
I am looking for cheap with strong magnetism.
Not Suburban, Not Mititoyo.
Both are not cheap, so they do not meet the criteria.
I am not even looking to use the V side of the block.
Do you guys even read my posts??
No wonder Don Thomas gets so pissed when you do this
to his questions.

-Doozer
 
Rare earth magnetic materials have advanced since my B&S block was made. That one, I can count on for being properly ground -- but as others have said it is weak.

I suspect any mid-range or better China import (home to cheap rare earth magnets) would out-perform the B&S in strength if not parallelism. You could also probably make your own. 1) Make cheap v-blockish shape. 2) Buy a couple dozen of the high strength (N60?) cylinder magnets. 3) Drill holes and epoxy in place. Only problem is it would always be "on." Good news is that it might not need a keeper.
 
Default
I am NOT looking for the best around,
I am looking for cheap with strong magnetism.
Not Suburban, Not Mititoyo.
Both are not cheap, so they do not meet the criteria.
I am not even looking to use the V side of the block.
Do you guys even read my posts??
No wonder Don Thomas gets so pissed when you do this
to his questions.
Click to expand...

Sheesh, Doozer.

For all we know you needed recommendations for best magnetism with plans to snipe the stuff on eBay. That's what I did back when it was cheap & a true auction. Dunno how it works these days.

Oddly, since I'm not averse to buying chinese import tooling for other applications, i don't have any in the magnetic field area for comparison. Even my (many) magnetic transfer and transfer Vee blocks are American made. Kind of surprised and maybe a little impressed with myself in that area! :D

But I get that you are not interested.
:D

smt
 
The flat bars have a lot of surface area contacting the magnetic chuck compared to the round part. The grinding wheel is going to want to push the round part either left or right. Since the flat bars are firmly fixed to the chuck via magnetic force they are not going anywhere. When the round bar tries to move it will be held in place by the flat bars.

Some magnetism is also holding the round bar it self, most likely enough to keep the round bar from rotating in place and changing the position of the flat.
 
Milland said:
I agree, don't like that at all. I'd use a toolmaker's vise and have that held by the chuck. No spin, no move, just use a parallel under the stock to keep the grind above the jaws and the part level.
Click to expand...

I agree, half rotation of the round while you're .125 down into the flat, next pass, exploded rock. Those are dangerous, loud, and messy. Scare the piss out of you too.
 
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