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Surface grinder wheel balancing

razoredgeknives

Plastic
Joined
Sep 6, 2019
Surface grinder wheel balancing, Harig 618

Hey guys, I'm pretty new at this so am not sure exactly how to balance my harig 618 grinding wheel... I need near perfect finishes so I defiantly want the wheel balanced even though it's pretty small diameter (7-8") I can either send it out if I can find someone to do it or get what I need to do it myself...

But I'm not sure if there is a dummy arbor I need or a specific flange that can take weights or what I need and what will work, even if I get the static wheel balancer. Any help appreciated!
 
You need to have a few things before you attempt this.

First, you need to have a hub that provides for balancing. usually there are weights that can be move around to achieve the proper balance.

Second, you need a plug that fits the inside of the hub.

Third, you need a balancing jig. This is usually provided with your grinder.

If you have all of these things, the only thing you need to remember is to be sure your wheel is NOT wet from coolant. This can wildly effect the balance.
 
If your flange has no movable weights, you can use a carbide drill and drill in to the wheel to balance it.
 
Wheels of this size should not need balancing. Altering a wheel by drilling or any other method is at your own peril. The wheel should be centered on the adaptor with paper shims as wheels now are usually 32 mm and slightly oversize for the 1 1/4" adaptor. Then dress both sides and the peryphery and it should run fine. When you see what a balancing adaptor costs you will likely have second thoughts on balancing.
 
TDMidget is probably right.

If you dress the wheel properly you should not need a balance.
 
You will need to make (or buy) a shaft that matches the wheel arbour taper. and you will need wheel arbour that has two, movable balance weights. Such can be obtained from Sopko. A balancer can be made from a pair of knife edge ways that can be adjusted to be horizontal or two pairs of knife edged disks on low friction bearings.

wheel.jpg


balancer.jpg


balancer1.jpg
 

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The balancing idea has come up time and again. It is always raised by a new owner dissatisfied with his finish. Much balancing discussion ensues as does bearings concerns and other bent spindle worries. . Later the owner discovers he was not tightening his wheel to the hub adequately or was not dressing properly...
Before going too far down this hole, check the basics.
Not trying to be a wise guy, just trying to save needless work and money outlay.

Denis
 
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I would be happy to sell you my balance frame. Two hardened rails on a cast base with a bubble level and adjustable feet.

I never use it! ;-)
 
You need to have a few things before you attempt this.

First, you need to have a hub that provides for balancing. usually there are weights that can be move around to achieve the proper balance.

Second, you need a plug that fits the inside of the hub.

Third, you need a balancing jig. This is usually provided with your grinder.

If you have all of these things, the only thing you need to remember is to be sure your wheel is NOT wet from coolant. This can wildly effect the balance.

Thanks. The biggest thing is that I'm not sure where to get the hub and plug I guess. I did find some wheel adaptors from Sopko but I'm not sure what to do about the shaft required to be used w/ the balancing jig?

If your flange has no movable weights, you can use a carbide drill and drill in to the wheel to balance it.

Yeah I saw where suburban tool did this, I would prefer weights though if I can figure out what hub/flange to get.

You will need to make (or buy) a shaft that matches the wheel arbour taper. and you will need wheel arbour that has two, movable balance weights. Such can be obtained from Sopko. A balancer can be made from a pair of knife edge ways that can be adjusted to be horizontal or two pairs of knife edged disks on low friction bearings.

wheel.jpg


balancer.jpg


balancer1.jpg

Thanks for all the pics, I'll give Sopko a buzz.


That is AMAZING and helpful, thank you! Will definitely be reading this... I was going to use this other method (bottom of page) I found but I like yours better I think.

I would be happy to sell you my balance frame. Two hardened rails on a cast base with a bubble level and adjustable feet.

I never use it! ;-)

Thanks so much!! But my issue isn't really the frame but the shaft and hub :(
 
This is what Sopko recommended, has balancing rings in the adaptor.

But how does that work with keeping everything balanced when I install the wheel on my surface grinder? Does the arbor shaft just slide out and then you slide the whole wheel and adapter assembly onto the surface grinder arbor?
 
This is what Sopko recommended, has balancing rings in the adaptor.

But how does that work with keeping everything balanced when I install the wheel on my surface grinder? Does the arbor shaft just slide out and then you slide the whole wheel and adapter assembly onto the surface grinder arbor?

Yes. And once you've balanced a wheel, it has to stay in that adapter, which means you need an adapter for every different wheel you are going to use... Or just balance one wheel for finishing work and leave another adapter in the spindle to mount wheels for roughing work.

Dennis
 
Once balanced you do not remove wheel.
That said I've seen very little difference on balancing a wheel in this size range.
If you were using a 2-3 inch wide wheel then maybe.
If you want to get all anal dress the sides true before balancing as these balancers shown will not help with this plane.
Mostly it is in the wheel dress which is art work.
Bob
 
I'm more of a test equipment geek, so the other article might be more practical, but here are my thoughts on the matter:
Grinding Wheel Balancing

Thanks I had actually seen your article already which is one thing that has inspired me to take this step!! Great write up and info.

Yes. And once you've balanced a wheel, it has to stay in that adapter, which means you need an adapter for every different wheel you are going to use... Or just balance one wheel for finishing work and leave another adapter in the spindle to mount wheels for roughing work.

Dennis

I just spoke w/ a guy who has 40+ years in a machine shop doing a ton of surface grinding and he assured me that whatever the dimension of the wheels if you want micron finishes you must balance the wheels (not that you are saying not to, just saying this for others)... but he also informed me that I can balance by just remove a little material off of the side of the heavy side of the wheel after checking it in a balancer, instead of using the weighted adapter flanges. then I wouldn't have to keep it in the adapter
 
Thanks I had actually seen your article already which is one thing that has inspired me to take this step!! Great write up and info.



I just spoke w/ a guy who has 40+ years in a machine shop doing a ton of surface grinding and he assured me that whatever the dimension of the wheels if you want micron finishes you must balance the wheels (not that you are saying not to, just saying this for others)... but he also informed me that I can balance by just remove a little material off of the side of the heavy side of the wheel after checking it in a balancer, instead of using the weighted adapter flanges. then I wouldn't have to keep it in the adapter

Well there's people here who have done "a ton of surface grinding" telling you different. So go spend a grand or more on shit you don't need and knock your self out. OR try the advice you have been given and find out.
W
 
I would be happy to sell you my balance frame. Two hardened rails on a cast base with a bubble level and adjustable feet.

I never use it! ;-)

CalG, I can't seem to PM you, but I would be interested in your balancing stand.

metalmagpie
 
but he also informed me that I can balance by just remove a little material off of the side of the heavy side of the wheel after checking it in a balancer, instead of using the weighted adapter flanges. then I wouldn't have to keep it in the adapter

THIS, this is basically like having your car tires balanced, then demounting them and expecting them to still be in balance when re-mounted.

IF the wheel is seriously out of balance because it has a dense spot on one side, yes it will help. But the more common source of imbalance is mounting the wheel off center on the adapter; when dressed true, the side with all the extra clearance ends up being lighter, because there is less material on that side of the wheel. You can't expect it to go on the adapter arbor in exactly the same position every time; even if you try, the wheel squirms around as the retaining flange is tightened. That's the reason for the suggestion above, and it's a good one, of wrapping a paper shim around the arbor to take up the extra clearance. Do this every time and I think you'll find that after dressing the wheel is adequately balanced.

Dennis
 
One other thought: If you're trying to get a perfect finish and don't have a way to balance your wheels (more than dressing them which works well for me), Think of it like taking finishing passes when milling or turning. Take your cut in smaller increments and spark out more so you give whatever high spot there is a chance to cut. I love our grinder that has auto feed in both directions as I can leave it running on it's own for a couple hours and end up with a mirror finish using almost any well dressed wheel.
 








 
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