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Swaging a lifting cable

1dogandnoexes

Aluminum
Joined
Jan 20, 2019
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I have a lifting cable on my blast cabinet door which had failed in the past. I got it operational with wire rope clamps from Home Depot. The door is quite heavy and so is the corresponding counter weight (Hmmmmm...). A cable failure while arms or something else is in the blast cabinet is almost certain to cause a serious injury. One end has a thimble and is swaged. The other is terminated with no swage. I can source the materials from McMaster Carr at least, and can also choose a ferrule with more compressions than the original. I don't know, however, if my garden variety handheld swaging tool (14" long levers) will produce the required result. The original has lasted from 1966, so it had a pretty good run. Thanks in advance for any input.

Can the moderator or someone else please tell me how to address the sideways image issue? :confused:
 
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A cable failure while arms or something else is in the blast cabinet is almost certain to cause a serious injury.

In that case, and the cable having already failed once, I would rig a safety catch to hold the door up while it is open. Perhaps a hinged piece of stout angle that swings into place to physically block the door from closing if the cable fails.

I'm almost paranoid about such situations and never trust my safety solely to cables, gas springs or lift cylinders. When I worked in a garage we ALWAYS engaged the safety catch before working on a car raised on the hydraulic lift.

Best way to deal with a sideways image is to rotate it in an image program and then save a copy before uploading.
 
Agree that a good quality saddle clamp like the one in the photo above should work fine. Check it periodically for
tightness and to make sure that there is no fraying taking place...
 
If you choose a Crosby, as suggested above, remember: never saddle a dead horse.
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Be safe and stay healthy




Jeremy
 
The original swage is a Nicopress - you see them a lot in the marine industry. They are pretty good as far as they go, but I'm not sure I'd trust one for something that could cause injury if it failed.
 
Make up 2 cables with swagged fittings. Hook the test one to the trailer hitch of your truck and see if it breaks the cable or pulls out of the sleeve. If the cable breaks before the ends pull off I would assume the other is good enough. Use to make core cables for retrieving samples from oil wells. When tested the 1/8 cables routinely broke at 2200 to 2500 hundred pounds. Scott's safety catch is not a bad idea even with a good cable.
 
In that case, and the cable having already failed once, I would rig a safety catch to hold the door up while it is open. Perhaps a hinged piece of stout angle that swings into place to physically block the door from closing if the cable fails.

I'm almost paranoid about such situations and never trust my safety solely to cables, gas springs or lift cylinders. When I worked in a garage we ALWAYS engaged the safety catch before working on a car raised on the hydraulic lift.

Best way to deal with a sideways image is to rotate it in an image program and then save a copy before uploading.

The appropriate way to do this is to implement a stout spring loaded brake or ratchet pawl, that is disengaged by tension on the lifting cable.
 
How is this going to crush your arms ?
I see a standard blasting cabinet with the glove holes on the from, and this gioutine door
on the side.
 
How is this going to crush your arms ?
I see a standard blasting cabinet with the glove holes on the from, and this gioutine door
on the side.

Well unless you load the cabinet with tongs you'll be sticking your arms through that door opening.
 
Well unless you load the cabinet with tongs you'll be sticking your arms through that door opening.

A hook ?
You can't hang a hook up alongside the door to be used when pulling the part out ?
and pushing it the last few inches in ?

Many of these larger cabinets have a small "RailRoad" with a cart that moves the part in/out.

EDIT: seeing how there is plenty of air piped to a sandblast cabinet, get rid of all that claptrap pulley's, counter weights, etc.
Put a simple air cylinder on top, pulls it up.
 
Vacu-Blast dry honer door lift mechanism

There seems to be some interest, sooo..... Thanks for all of the other responses. If I figure out voice interface in Windows 10, I'll respond to some of the points raised. I hope the pictures get the memo across. Importing them into a CAD program and adding the symbols and notations was extremely cumbersome.
 

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Still possible with a chain
A linkage that will turn the chain 90dgr above the lower pulley (Piece of square with 2 holes at 90dgr)

Peter

Yes, that would work.

However, the area is usually very dusty with a abrasive, would the roller chain hold up as well as stranded cable ?

Best solution is probably replacing with O.E.M., it's worked good this long, just keep an eye on it,
as a wear item.
 
Check out the Crosby website for proper number location and use of saddle clamps. Then buy Crosby clamps or very high quality equivalent and equally high quality cable. A cable is designed as a machine to work with it's clamps and associated parts.
 








 
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