So we need to change a straight pin to a taper pin. The original hole was ~.125. The taper pin hole is ~.138 on the small side to ~.153 on the large end. The collar was aluminum but the shaft is a very hard steel (I will measure the hardness when I get it back.) Ordered a carbide #0 taper reamer with a pilot to let the original hole be the guide. Tapered reamer broke. This was being drilled with a cordless drill. This is going to be an occasional thing so efficiency isn't critical.
So my questions are:
1.) I can get a tapered #0 reamer from MSC quick, but it will be HSS. Will it be able to finish the job?
2.) What's the best process to go from the original .125 hole to the taper hole? Drill to #30 (.1285), Drill midpoint to #26 (.147)?
3.) What are the right speeds/feeds?
4.) Do we need a rigid setup in a V-block on a mill, or go in the other direction with a T-handle and no power?
I'm a moderately experienced engineer, though machine shop operations are not my knowledge base. This is being done by a machinist who is experienced, but taper reaming is not a common operation for us.
I'll post the hardness when I find out what it is.
Thanks for everyone's help.
-Kirby
So my questions are:
1.) I can get a tapered #0 reamer from MSC quick, but it will be HSS. Will it be able to finish the job?
2.) What's the best process to go from the original .125 hole to the taper hole? Drill to #30 (.1285), Drill midpoint to #26 (.147)?
3.) What are the right speeds/feeds?
4.) Do we need a rigid setup in a V-block on a mill, or go in the other direction with a T-handle and no power?
I'm a moderately experienced engineer, though machine shop operations are not my knowledge base. This is being done by a machinist who is experienced, but taper reaming is not a common operation for us.
I'll post the hardness when I find out what it is.
Thanks for everyone's help.
-Kirby