Tapping in thick steel - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    I would reccomend a step tap or a set of three taps. I think the plate is too thick for a step tap. You might look into tap holders for a manual pipe threader.
    Bill D.

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    A nice heavy duty drill press would be an asset to your shop..Mag drills are Ok but not as good as a drill press. They hold nice and straight so tapping goes better. Likely you might even tap under power with a quick hold down. Good to drill near the high limit of tap drill size.

    I know not its easy to find machines out in the bush.. I have a big old buffalo heavy duty belt drive, think I paid $25 that can drill& tap big holes PDQ.

    Gear head Drill Press 220/ 240 volt - heavy equipment - by dealer


    Cincinnati Bickford Gear Head Drill Press 21" | eBay

    two hand wrench
    https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-38.../dp/B000HBDW3O

  3. #23
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    For something (relatively) crude like this I'm not sure that using an impact wrench is such a bad idea.
    Oversize the hole a bit and have at it. The worst that can happen is you're going to break a tap and
    (maybe) scrap one piece of material.

    They make impact taps in smaller sizes; perhaps someone makes them in the larger sizes...

    Impact Taps UNC - Hex Drive Shank / High Speed Steel *Fractional

    And then there's this thread. Makes the OPs job seem kinda simple...

    Power tapping 1" hole 6" deep upside down in the field




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    Quote Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
    For something (relatively) crude like this I'm not sure that using an impact wrench is such a bad idea.
    Oversize the hole a bit and have at it. The worst that can happen is you're going to break a tap and
    (maybe) scrap one piece of material.

    They make impact taps in smaller sizes; perhaps someone makes them in the larger sizes...
    YouTube

    Up to 1" UNC
    VersaDrive™ ImpactaTaps - UNC Thread – Holemaker Technology (HMT)

    Don't tell digger doug but they have even impact reamers

    For giggles I have tried also "normal" M8 HSS taps on steel, seemed to work "ok" as long as you started the thread straight.
    (10mm S355 plate with 6.8mm holes so no % engagement games either..)

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    Where are you ? There's a guy in Anchorage with a Sundstrand vertical that'd eat those holes for breakfast.

    Take video. I can't imagine how that thing got up there. I've only seen one in my entire life ! The z axis is a quill - 9" in diameter !

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    Notice in the video that the thread crests are quite wide and flat; pretty sure they've drilled a larger than
    normal hole for the demo. It would still be pretty strong though...

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    Quote Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
    Notice in the video that the thread crests are quite wide and flat; pretty sure they've drilled a larger than
    normal hole for the demo. It would still be pretty strong though...
    In some part of the video it looked like normal/full thread to my calibrated eyeball-o-meter but I'm not going to start taking screenshots of the video for measurements

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    if you're working out of your garage, you might have some vertical clearance issues with a radial arm drill. You might also consider an old cnc mill. You can find a decent running Amura for under $5K. Then you could drill and threadmill the bases in one op.

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    Thanks for the input, lots of good ideas here. I really like the sound of a cnc mill but that means my car would have to park outside. Definitely something to keep in mind for when I build a new shop. I also really like the impact taps for a short term solution but unfortunately they donít make the thread pitch I need. I looked up the specs and itís a 1-8 unc. Nothing about thread percentage so Iíll most likely go for 50%. According to Milwaukee my mag drill can handle 1-8. If it struggles I guess Iím hand tapping until I can afford the next upgrade. Thanks again for the help

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperUPer View Post
    ...If it struggles I guess I’m hand tapping until I can afford the next upgrade...
    You can power tap with a regular tap--you just need an adapter to mate it to your impact wrench...

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    I think oversizing the hole a bit is a good idea. Also the machine options are likely not worth the expense of getting in something different right now. You might get a few taps and some strong tap handles and basically take a couple of undersized taps or three to size the thread. 1'8 is pertty stout and so there is a lot of muscle needed. Using a few taps you can use Moly Dee on the taps and basically take three cuts to size. Make sure your taps are tapered to ease into the cut. Use a tapping block to start the tap hole straight.

    You are kind of stuck here in my opinion to hand tapping these holes and so making them faster and easier will help. Use the old style tap handle with some length on the handles.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperUPer View Post
    I also really like the impact taps for a short term solution but unfortunately they donít make the thread pitch I need. I looked up the specs and itís a 1-8 unc.
    I suspect that the UNC 1" 18 TPI is a typo on the impact tap webpage, should read 8 TPI.

    Reime-Noris tapping calculator gives ~80 to 160Nm torque depending on this and that, if nothing else you get really good workout with hand tapping few dozen holes like that!

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    I think you need a big drill anyway. There has to be an old dog somewhere near you that could be bought on the cheap. Look everywhere and you will find it.

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    With the impact taps, it is indeed a typo on the website. I was able to find a place in Canada that lists the VersaDrive in 1-8 unc. I placed an order for 3 plus the adapter.

    I would like to get a good drill press eventually, along with a bunch of other tools. One thing at a time though, the list is bigger than the shop and the income at this point. Hoist/ gantry crane, welder, press brake, hydraulic press, new truck, drill press, new shop building, etc, etc. I expect over the next 18 years (thatís when Iím eligible for full retirement benefits) I will have transitioned to full time at this

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    A ridgid #700 power pony should eat that up, you'll need need the tap adapters. Whole setup should run 2k-ish and they're immensely useful for other things.

    Model #46832 is 1500w at 28 rpm, should be about 375ft-lb of torque.

    How was that not the first response?

  18. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post
    A ridgid #700 power pony should eat that up, you'll need need the tap adapters. Whole setup should run 2k-ish and they're immensely useful for other things.

    Model #46832 is 1500w at 28 rpm, should be about 375ft-lb of torque.

    How was that not the first response?
    Yes, plenty of power there. Start out carefully, there's enough to twist your ass like a tight pretzel.
    Y

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  20. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdmidget View Post
    Yes, plenty of power there. Start out carefully, there's enough to twist your ass like a tight pretzel.
    Y
    He'd not be the first to get bucked by one of them.

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    Fun fact, my mag drill (Milwaukee model 4203 with 4262 11.5 amp motor) was able to power tap after drilling with a 7/8 bit. Itís a little scary at first because you need to have the speed all the way up to get full power. Ram it in and away she goes

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  23. #39
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    Hell ya! Use good, sharp taps with some heavy oil and you should be golden.

    Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

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    I hate mag drills for that type work and second or fifth opinion on getting a drill press. A nice super duty walker or Powermatic or gear head Swedish... Balling on budget I would even go the 2 hp porta cable brand new from lowes (be prepared to replace chuck before you start). No need to use vice, just vice grip plate over a mdf board for drilling. I would still use the roto broach bit for anything over 3/4.
    If press is outta budget... drill all the holes with mag drill in whole plate before cutting, so much easier to position. You can then tap pre cut and not have to clamp/handle each plate another time. The whole plates weight is its own clamp. Of course this takes forcing a nice nest with known spacing.
    The impact taps are kinda cool on the big sizes, I think a really good cordless impact is the ticket for lighter faster hammering than the bigger hits of chorded impacts. The 1/4 hole you can use a cordless drill or hand tap, depends on depth.
    A flex arm that can push a 1 " tap is a beast and cost more than those plates do.


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