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test bar source

You put a center in the tailstock, a center in the headstock, and cut a bar between them. When you don't have taper, the tailstock is in line. Learned that 50 years ago.
JR
 
You don’t need to turn the whole bar, just wind in a cut at the tail, zero the crosslide dial, pull out a turn travel up to the headstock , wind in the tool to zero (eliminating backlash) mic both ends, should be the same, gets funny when the bar between centres is forty foot long!
Mark
 
I bought one once all the way from England because I couldn't find one stateside. I believe they are much more commonly sold over there.

But a pair of buttons from Brownell's would surely be cheaper and much easier to store.

metalmagpie
 
Do what I did, buy you a piece of 1" OD x 18" long Thompson case harden shafting, its dead true within tenths in a foot or better. Chuck on it in the four jaw or a 3-jaw adjust a true chuck, indicate it in to read zero and you got it. This will let you check alignment of the headstock to the bed if the bed is not worn. The shafting should be soft enough in the center to centerdrill the ends. This way, put it between centers and align the tail stock. Although this will work, its not the proper method for checking alignment.

Don't waste your time on those made in India. I bought one, found the No. MT to have a flat spot on the small end of the taper that caused it not to show perfect TIR on the straight section of the test bar. Follow John Oder recommendation and get one from Brain at Lost Creek Machine.

Ken
 
porthos said:
i know about home made test bars; i made one. iam looking for a source for morse taper test bars.
Click to expand...

If you have money to spend, go to John's link. What others are trying to tell you is that you don't need one. So many get fixated on only one way to do something and spend a lot of money to get that done. The tool catalogs are full of stuff like that. The twin indicator head trammer comes to mind.

Many of us have been doing this for a lot of years. My tailstock is centered and I don't have a test bar. I must be doing something wrong.
JR
 
What others are trying to tell you is that you don't need one
Click to expand...

Same idea on Universal and Plain Cylindrical grinders - every set up between centers includes whatever tweaking / adjusting needed to insure the least measurable taper to suit the job at hand

No test bars in sight
 

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