Test cut on round stock. Is this pattern normal?

BDogg464 · Apr 21, 2021

Hello all,

I recently tore down and gave a tune up to a 1973 Wellsaw Horizontal Bandsaw 58B.
After the restore, I got the blade cutting nice and square horizontally and vertically using a piece of square stock. Mabey 1'' x 1 1/2''
The cut looked as expected. So after that I threw a piece of 2'' round stock on it to see how it does. Not a problem, ate right threw it.
After inspecting the cut, it has a really unique pattern on it. The metal i was cutting was clamped firmly and did not rotate at all.
Is this a common pattern to see when cutting a piece of round stock with a horizontal bandsaw? Not concerned just found it interesting.
Mabey an indication to something going on? Or perhaps just a by-product of tooth geometry of the blade?
Anyways figured someone would of come across this before.

gbent · Apr 21, 2021

just a by-product of tooth geometry of the blade

When a tooth enters a workpiece, the set of the tooth tries to deflect the blade. So the prior tooth digs in just a little.

EmGo · Apr 21, 2021

You want the half-circles, but the rubbed spots look like maybe too fine of a blade. You're running coolant to wash the swarf out, I hope ?

BDogg464 · Apr 21, 2021

This machine does not have coolant, but i do have blade brushes on it.

EmGo · Apr 21, 2021

BDogg464 said:
This machine does not have coolant,

Maybe that's where all that rubbed look is coming from. I am a big fan of coolant on everything, washes the crap out and keeps it from scraping around on your cut.

Maybe a Little Giant pump and a bucket ?

Still might be a big too fine of a blade for that diameter tho. You're supposed to choose the tpi for the dia of what you are cutting ... anyway, the crescents are desirable (I forget why but that's what they say), it just looks kinda like road rash across the surface. Coolant should help.

Newman109 · Apr 21, 2021

Running without coolant produces that pattern. I run my 7 X 12 Horizontal bandsaw with flood coolant. Cuts will be smoother than shown and your blades will last a lot longer.

johansen · Apr 22, 2021

the shiny spot location is a resonance pattern, but your blade life will improve if you air blast or add coolant. expect the cool pattern to disappear with coolant or air blast.

thermite · Apr 22, 2021

BDogg464 said:
This machine does not have coolant, but i do have blade brushes on it.

It only needs enough emulsifier in ignorant WATER to not RUST s**t. The saw itself, if not the stock, when shiney-wood is your meat.

Since it is a rough cut, not final lathe or mill finish, any basic HVAC "condensate pump" can do the recirculating off an ignorant mixing pan placed under the whole dang saw if it has no built-in return channels. "Little Giant" was $25 and a shop-fab splash cover. They are open, not sealed.

A Taiwanese SEALED one is under a hundred bucks. Blade life gain cost-reduction and NUISANCE TIME to change-out the blade(s) - (breaks and/or simply gone too-damned DULL, ALWAYS happen when you are in a HURRY! "Law of Saws" Corollary to Lybarger's Corollary to Sod's Law [1]) - will pay for either one.

Whether you give a damn about the CUT or never.

The Houghton-Ho-Cut concentrate is shared with the mills and lathes.
Actually.. it's been used already. Saw is more forgiving of degradation & s**t, and you do not really WANT a(ny) emulsion to stay under-roof "forever" 'til it eats more "conditioning" time than it saves as to cutting time.

Cheap, Iyam. Lazy as well.

[1] All else being equal, YOU LOSE!

gbent · Apr 22, 2021

And coolant on a saw that is cutting tubing makes a monumental mess and wastes lots of coolant. Even when you have coolant troughs that run full length of the bar.

muckalee · Apr 22, 2021

Normal and notice the lines are parallel to the vise jaws.

BT Fabrication · Apr 22, 2021

need to make the rack that holds tubing not level so it goes to the front or back, that way when you have a cut piece, you pick it up and drain it back into the tray

BDogg464 · Apr 22, 2021

This thing is a beast, given to me for free. So i only saw fit to give it an overhaul. It will not be a daily driver, but will serve me well cutting the occasional stock to use in the forge or on the lathe at home.

Here's how it looked went i got it. It also came with a helper.

On that test cut picture i believe the oil and grease was rubbing off on the part highlighting the pattern. (shiny spots?) It was a new blade, but a n.o.s. blade that had been sitting in its orginal packaging for however many years, so a little bit of smu on it. The saw came with a box of mabey 10-15 different blades and i had just tossed one on it to test. It did come with an awesome sawtooth, speed, chart for what type of metal your trying to cut.(it came with all the original documents and booklets I'll probably laminate it and fix it to the inside of the swing door.

Thanks for all the awesome reply's. Good to know it's cutting how it should. It did'nt even flinch at the round stock. I'll see how it handles as i cut different types of metal.

BDogg464 · Apr 22, 2021

Chart

BDogg464 · Apr 22, 2021

I believe the test bar was a piece of 1144 steel, I work beside a Machinist company and get the occasional pile of cut offs or freebies. although their business was rather slow this past year.

Some of what i have is mystery metal, some have colored ends and no writing. Some have writing on them. I haven't learned if the colored ends indicate specific metals yet.

I have a few chunks of fat 4140HT bar, and round stock cut-offs. In the 5-6 diameter range.

I also have a bunch of round stock in tubes i picked up from a gunsmiths estate sale. Not sure what kind of metal it would be either, a couple have oil hardening drill rod written on them. Brass rods, giant aluminum round stock.

So i have plenty of machines and metal to play with now.

I have only gotten more into the machinist side of things the past couple of years, but have spent my life learning trades.
Glad i found this forum as it seems to hold alot of knowledgeable people. Hopefully i can pull some information from you friendly folks as i slowly learn and teach myself as i find projects to work with.

EmGo · Apr 24, 2021

BDogg464 said:
I haven't learned if the colored ends indicate specific metals yet.

Of course they do ! But the hangup is, every supplier has his own coding system, and they have no relationship to each other. Unless you know where it came from, helps not at all.

I do remember blue and white is 8620 if it's Jorgensen. Or maybe that was Ryerson. A&M Castle ? Somebody, anyhow.

BDogg464 · Apr 24, 2021

I'll post some pictures of what i recently scored.
some have tags, some in tubes, but nothing really indicating what metal it really is.
Mabey someone will see something im not.

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