Is this there I get shunned for buying a Bridgeport clone? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    As others have mentioned, sometimes the "Bridgeport clones" are better than the original. We have 2 Royal brand knee mills and they run and function just as well as a BP. I ran a Lagun I think years ago and it actually "felt" much better to run than a "real" BP. And I have been fortunate enough to run a brand new BP.... nothing special or better.

    The big thing with these knee mills is their versatility. Pivot/nod the head for angles, swing it out to one side to do oddball work, etc...
    Parts for them or even a properly labeled machine have been problems. Not so with Bridgeport.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trueturning View Post
    Parts for them or even a properly labeled machine have been problems. Not so with Bridgeport.
    My Induma uses a BP toothed belt, and replacing every bearing I found no specials,......leadscrews and nuts while not in the first flush of youth were plenty good enough to go again, and with it being a general workhorse and not show pony, the rest was mostly cleaning and careful fitting & reassembly.

  3. #23
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    nothing wrong with a decent , tight bridgeport ... or
    any other machine if it makes good parts .

    not all clones are as good/better . anyone remember the 80's/90's ENCO and JET pieces of shit? how'bout the latest ALL CHINESE garbage ?

    Wells Index, XLO , Gorton Mastermil, Tree, Toolmaster,
    Shizouka, Rambaudi - perform the same function but
    are hardly clones , they are fine designs in their own
    right - but are commonly known as bpt's .

    when someone asks me what milling capacity i have in my
    shop , " i have a HAAS vertical cnc and a bridgeport" . it's a whole lot easier to say than
    " I have a Cincinnati 1-D Toolmaster , which is very similar
    in design to a bridgeport and performs many of the same functions".

    Bpt it is.

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  5. #24
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    I have a 1d toolmster, I have been accused of being a mill snob, saying that I would use a Bport with impunity, nothing wrong with them, bloody things made half the world, (I’m assuming the 1d is the angular one, )
    Mark

  6. #25
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    If it does not say Bridgeport on it is is not a real machine tool....
    I've tossed so many B-ports into the scrap yard. They were considered expendable tooling here. Run them hard, put em up wet and throw them away.
    Maybe they come back as clones or such.
    I do not recognize this base but that does not mean it is not a good workable machine.
    Bob

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeHawk View Post
    Haha seems like you all are more like minded than I thought. I have 2 friends that were machinists for sometime and both of them say that unless it is a Bridgeport they suck and parts are hard to find. But the only mill that I have personally used was when I was getting my A&P license at the school they had a Webb that I made some brackets and parts for a few projects on and it was a great machine. I just finished cleaning the ways and lead screws. Looks like very little wear. I might take a stone to the table lightly to clean up a few small nicks, and by small nicks I mean just that very minor other than that the table looks great. I found some metric clutch screws on ebay I believe are the right size. Does anyone know any place in the US that carries parts for these metric machines? I might just leave the collet pin out like suggested. I took the upper housing off to clean everything and replace the belts. The spindle brake looks like it is toast. At some point in time two of the screws fell out and the phenolic brake shoes sagged and dragged on the taper in the pulley. I am not sure if it is worth ordering new shoes and hardware for $100 or just leaving the spindle brake off. Other than holding the spindle to loosen and tighten the draw bar what else is the brake needed for? Hole tapping to stop faster? A VFD I ordered arrives tomorrow and I should be able to fire this bad boy up. I am still curious on the brand. Most Webbs and clones that I have seen look almost exactly like bridgeport towers and rams. But this guy is so square. Oh and it is heavy, heavier than most bridgeports and clones spec at. Almost 2800lbs...
    Parts for imports are not hard to find - maybe hard to identify exactly what you have - but once they are identified they are NOT hard to find.

  8. #27
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    High Quality Tools in Eastlake oh has most of what you could ever need for any knee mill - domestic or foreign. If you can't fin it there then try this place - http://www.matacoinc.net/.

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  10. #28
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    De-rail alert......

    Any of you Midwesterners know a good place to swap out and/or rebuild Bports or their clones? We have an old (and yes, clapped out) Bport that I'd like to trade in for a rebuilt one or a clone.

    I too hail from the Bridgeport Cult.......must be a local union thing that's washed off.
    That said, I do realize that some clones or even other designs like K&T are way better.

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChipSplitter View Post
    De-rail alert......

    Any of you Midwesterners know a good place to swap out and/or rebuild Bports or their clones? We have an old (and yes, clapped out) Bport that I'd like to trade in for a rebuilt one or a clone.

    I too hail from the Bridgeport Cult.......must be a local union thing that's washed off.
    That said, I do realize that some clones or even other designs like K&T are way better.
    It is not worth the price. Scrap bin.
    Spent the money to rescue machines with heritage or love past. As with a worn out endmill or carbide insert... let it go.
    Bob

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  13. #30
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    As others have said, there are BP clones and BP clones. I bought a BP clone in China a few years ago new. The head was made in Taiwan and is an exact copy of a step pulley Bp. The rest of the machine is completely different with internal power feeds and rapids. I ordered it from the factory with a 3 axis Sino DRO and it has been brilliant.

  14. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarbideBob View Post
    .....As with a worn out endmill or carbide insert... let it go.
    Bob
    Throw away a carbide insert..??

    We always regrind ours.

    (just kiddin')

  15. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeHawk View Post
    I have very little experience using a vertical mill but I have always wanted one. I grew up with a smaller old southbend lathe. Hand me down from a great uncle, have the original hand written receipt from 1942. Anyways my starting budget was as little as possible and at $150 this machine hit the nail on the head. If I get some skills and it occupies more of my hobby time I might invest in an actual Bridgeport but for now I have a few projected I wanted to tackle myself as learning projects. The table is in pretty good shape (has original track marks?) and the ways look like they have hardly any wear. The shop I got it from said it had been used as a glorified drillpress most its life for drilling and tapping aluminum extrusions, basically setup a clamp and stop and go to production mode. Which makes sense because the head does look like it has the most wear of the machine. As far as I can tell it is a Taiwan made clone. The plate on the motor shows it is made there. But I can not find any markings on the mill itself. I was wondering if anyone has any idea on the brand. I am thinking it might be a Pilgrim because I have seen Pilgrim brand mills online that have the same motor but the square knee support and tower looks different from anything I can find. It seems like a J series head with some metric and some standard threads. I need to order some clutch pins and a collet set screw, other than that it is functional, as far as I can tell.

    Attachment 290010
    You Lucky Dog! Good for you.

    Judging by the picture there is a problem with the one-shot oiling system. Fix that immediately and make sure oil flows adequately on all the ways. Best of luck with your new machine.

    Best Regards,
    Bob

  16. #33
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    I have a 4VH Champ at work I use every day and the knee looks the same with box ways,double table locks,the ram is square like that.looks like a step pulley,mine is a vs.The column is different,smaller but squared off.I don't know how many variants they made but could be an early model.It has the large table also.So maybe I have the only WEBB that shares some similarity's.They also made a smaller Webb but I have only seen a picture of one and don't remember what was different.

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    Many years ago when bridgeport was highly sought after, used ones brought almost new price! I got a good deal on a slightly used Millport! Taiwan knockoff bridgeport, but I still use it and make money with it, the few repairs I have done to it I found bridgeport parts fit perfectly and I really like the two speed motor which bridgeport never had?

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  19. #35
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    So after cleaning everything and tweaking a few things I got the VFD wired up. I started getting into my first project. I am doing an engine swap on a land cruiser and the LS exhaust manifolds hit the frame rails. I made a jig to bolt them to and I am cutting the mounting flanges to rock them in 6.5 degrees. It seemed like I had a little bit of chatter and end play. So I took the spindle out of the quill and found that the top nut that holds the pre-load on the bearings was completely loose/ un-threaded and a tang had broken off the locking washer! I am debating on ordering new bearings. The old bearings are labeled 46207 which are 7207 annular ball bearings. There are no alignment marks on the outer races. So two questions...

    Should I just lock everything back down and put it in and see how it runs? (I might just do this, not like the spindle is hard to remove and install.

    Or should I just order new bearings? If I do should I go with sealed bearings or open bearings like it had before?

    img_20200529_213620.jpgimg_20200530_110827.jpgimg_20200530_160355.jpg

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    If it was me I’d just order new bearings and be done with it. I did my mill a year ago and went with open bearings and use spindle oil every time I use them mill.
    I got mine from H+W- good people there


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  21. #37
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    No, this is where you get abused for buying certain Asian machines, but not other Asian machines.

    Arguments is down the hall, three doors.

  22. #38
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    The main column looks like a Vectrax MSc sold them.Yours defiantly has dove tail ways on the vertical but sure looks like box ways on the horizontal? Kind of odd.Did you find any tags on the back of the main column?

  23. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeHawk View Post
    doing an engine swap on a land cruiser and the LS exhaust manifolds hit the frame rails. I made a jig to bolt them to and I am cutting the mounting flanges to rock them in 6.5 degrees.
    Off topic w/r the mill, but.. "shit moves" under an AWD's hood.

    Last time i had that challenge, prodified '91 GMC truck 90-degree V6 into an '84 Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer ex four-banger?

    I simply had Advance Adapter ship me the thick steel plates they use for tube headers.

    Then bent-up goods to clear everything out of steel flex tubing. Fixed the position of all the curves with steel rod tack-welded as stiffeners.

    Boxed up the "pattern", shipped it back to Advance Adapter.

    They bent the "real" tubes to match, welded it up proper, per my request, used the Walker/MOPAR bulged ball-end coupling and pull-in flange instead of flat-flange so the alignment to the sauce-pipes were not all that critical.

    Sent me back right nice tube-headers that fit right up.. and cleared all the various and sundry s**t they had to clear, be it steering, power brake unit... etc. with plenty to spare even tough off-road twist and shout.

    If milling an angle solves your "entire" fitment problem, good on yah.

    If not as lucky?

    The custom tube headers didn't really cost all that much nor take a lot of turnaround time, given I didn't go for no polishing or chrome plating or such.

    Mind that was 1991-92.. new owner, new transmission, still driving it, too... but the tube-fab capability has prolly gotten better, not lesser?

    2CW

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobw View Post
    Or Q-Tip brand cotton swabs?
    There is no substitute for Q-Tip brand!

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