What's new
What's new

Tips for building a steady rest

Cole2534

Diamond
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Location
Oklahoma City, OK
I've basically given up on finding a factory steady rest for my lathe (Monarch 12ck, 30" c/c) so I think I'll build one but I have a couple q's-

Is iron necessary, or will a steel creation suffice? It would certainly be easier to build if I could weld up portions as needed.

Any reason to not use bronze tipped fingers? Rollers seems like they'd be a hassle.

Make it hold the swing over x-slide, or the lathe's full capacity? (or from some suitable drop and let the size fall where it may?)

Any major pitfalls?

Thanks, Cole
 
In some occasions building your own makes sense. Not only building from scratch can sometimes be less work than modifying, but it allows one to get exactly what is needed. And steady rest is really a simple device that can be made in a short time. Here is one I've made a few years ago for my Harrison lathe. I do have the original, but it was way too small. This one can take 8" diameter and the clamping can easily be adjusted just with the one lever (after the work-piece is centred.)

steady-rest.jpg
 
That's pretty close to what I'd envisioned. Do you ever wish you had threaded adjustments on the fingers?

I find the sliding supports more rigid, secure and easy to adjust: I clamp the object (at the time I've made the steady for machining flanges on 6" pipes after welding. I had quite a number to of those to make and the long bed Harrison was just long enough for the job) in the chuck(supported by tail-stock with a large live centre). I move the 3 sliding supports until the ball bearings just touching the pipe and clamp tighter by about half a turn to the closing bolt once the tail-stock is out of the way.
 
I seem to remember seeing a write up by BECKLEY on one he made for his monarch, well written and made to perfection. Couln't find it in a quick search.. I think the one he made was a follow rest though.
 
I seem to remember seeing a write up by BECKLEY on one he made for his monarch, well written and made to perfection. Couln't find it in a quick search.. I think the one he made was a follow rest though.
Yes, and it is a great looking piece. I think it's now in the hands of another PM member.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
If you jump on bidspotter today their is a auction in Hoffman estates,Ill. They have five brand new steady rest for auction. No bids look to be for a 13+ size lathe. 5 buck opening bid can’t beat those prices. Check it out
 
In some occasions building your own makes sense. Not only building from scratch can sometimes be less work than modifying, but it allows one to get exactly what is needed. And steady rest is really a simple device that can be made in a short time. Here is one I've made a few years ago for my Harrison lathe. I do have the original, but it was way too small. This one can take 8" diameter and the clamping can easily be adjusted just with the one lever (after the work-piece is centred.)

View attachment 242349

thats steel, right? does it ring?
 
I have made a couple of steady rests. One for a lathe that had no steady rest, another because I needed a larger size than what it came with. Why would you not want adjustments on the fingers? I drilled and tapped mine with a left hand thread. This makes usage so much more natural. On the top finger, I milled a thin flat the length of the finger on the backside. In conjunction with the flat, I milled a small pocket that would, when filled with oil, allow a small amount of oil the flow down the flat and thus oiled the shaft running in the steady. Mine were both burnouts from 1.5 steel. After every thing was milled, I blued and scraped the flat and v-way surfaces to fit the lathe. Very solid, no ringing or vibrations. Good luck.

JH
 
i have one from a mystery lathe(old sheldon?) i milled the base flat , milled a piece of
4" wide 1018 to fit the vee and flat on my machine . chucked a piece of 1" , then
centered the fingers of the steady around it to find the height... faced the steel plate
to fit and bolted the two together .

it is integral to the setup when centering the workpiece to have screws on the fingers.
your setup methods must differ from mine if you don't . it would take me forever to indicate without them . mine has solid bronze slotted fingers, but i plan to add
follower bearings .

a steel steady shouldn't "RING" , unless it's made as a solid ring . having a hinge
on the thing should take care of that.
 
20181116_092647.jpg20181116_092552.jpg20181116_092611.jpg
The smaller one is my design
You can get close to it and it goes as large as the lathe can swing over the cross slide all steel no ringing
Rollers all the way
I've never wanted bronze but ymmv
 
Only reason I'd build one is to get an unusually large size that typically isn't available for that size swing lathe. My 18" L&S came with a factory 6" capacity and a monster shop built 18" steady just made up of welded 3/4" plate. The big one works extremely well, even though it was never painted and is about as crude as can be imagined. Here is it being used to hold a Vandercook proof printing press cylinder that had the handle trunnion broken off in shipping. Bored it out, pressed and bolted a new steel piece back in. The fingers on this steady are just steel. I turned a ring of scrap bronze and made it a light shrink fit to the cylinder tire for a bearing surface. A little grease kept it running smoothly. After finishing, a few seconds with the torch and it slid right off.
 

Attachments

  • lathe.jpg
    lathe.jpg
    92.6 KB · Views: 299








 
Back
Top