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Tool and Instrument Oil

Don2222222

Plastic
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Location
Wheatland, WY
Hi, I have recently changed jobs and have noticed that my hand tools are seemingly more succeptable to surface rust.

In the olden days (as an apprentice engine builder in the 1970‘s) we used a preservative tool oil on all of our machines and hand tools during the monsoon season. Later I worked in better climate controlled facilities. Since moving to a colder climate and a far less climate controlled shop, I need a rust prevention solution. Many of my tools are 30 to 40 years old and I have maintained them flawlessly until now.

What is the best preservative tool oil for the money now... It‘s been so long since I‘ve needed it, I don‘t even remember what brand we used...

TIA ~Don
 
For precision hand tools, I like Boeshield T-9. It leaves a light waxy finish that's dry to the touch and easily and quickly removed from measuring surfaces with a wipe from most any solvent. Problem is, it has become ridiculously expensive once the ownership changed hands (near $20 a spray can).

CRC and others make light protectants for a third of that cost -- perhaps someone knows of something similar to T-9 at a sensible cost.

For machine tools -- just keep them oiled.

Most of us have small tools that are both essential at time and rarely needed. Wrap those in vapor paper and keep them in a decent chest and they should do OK.
 
I recall someone telling me that motor oil (engine oil) is designed to collect and keep in solution (what ever small amount, ie condensation on inside of crank case that may happen) when an engine completely warms up from running, the small amount of water is baked out. As in hydraulic oil is designed so the water collects for easier removal in the bottom of resolver for the system after it has time to settle out after the equipment is allowed to cool off. I have no facts or background to back up this but it seems to me hydraulic oil would be better choice verses motor oil.
 
M1 All Purpose Lubricant

For fine tools I like M1, for general storage Boeshield T9 is great. M1 sorta dissappears so that its almost like there is nothing on the tool. Just pick it up and use it. Boeshield leaves a little more film you can see and feel. Its more wax like.

Both are really good.

PG 2000 is a good light oil to have around too.
 
i once saw 10 precision combination squares in plastic oiled and in wooden boxes in a old tool crib.
.
i open and the screw locking ruler was rusted solid on all of them, missed by the oil. dont take much missed spots to create problems. some ship metal parts in 55 gallon barrels full of oil submerged in the oil.
 
Old timers (when I was an apprentice) used camphor blocks. We would purchase them at drug stores. They came with a plastic wrapper. They were about 1.5 x 1.5 x3/8ths thick. You would just pierce the wrapper on one and put it in the bottom drawer of your precision tools (wooden chest). It was good for months. Don't know if they are still available or not.

JH
 
The best stuff I have ever used is Fluid Film, sprays on bubbles up, wipe off, done. Amazing on hydraulic rams around salt water, no fingerprints again on gun barrels, on battery terminals - never corrode, food grade too.
 
regular SAE-30 non-detergent is inexpensive and works fine . doesn't hurt to drop a couple bags of silica gel
desiccant in the toolbox . i hate rusty tools, but i don't want to scrape freakin' wax off the thing every time i use it.
 
Texas has bad humidity.

One thing we do in our shop is spray parts down with 50/50 mix kerosene (or diesel) and non-detergent motor oil. The kerosene thins it out enough that it can flow into all the nooks and crannys when sprayed on and evaporates leaving the oil behind.

That's more of a broad approach, when I calibrate our measuring tools (supposed to happen yearly), they also get a thorough cleaning and oiling with Lily White oil.
 
Old timers (when I was an apprentice) used camphor blocks. We would purchase them at drug stores. They came with a plastic wrapper. They were about 1.5 x 1.5 x3/8ths thick. You would just pierce the wrapper on one and put it in the bottom drawer of your precision tools (wooden chest). It was good for months. Don't know if they are still available or not.

JH

Yes they are. I use those and like them very much.

For machinery surfaces and items kept out of boxes and drawers I use LPS-2 (or LPS-3 for very long-term storage, especially in dump environments: it leaves wax-like substance on the surface that needs to be removed before use)
 
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I just dip mine in 5-30 Engine oil or Gear lube and call it done. I also sell my old tools on E-bay anyone want a link?

R
 
Anhydrous lanolin and salt-free sheep tallow have been used for centururies as corrosion preventives, but can become rancid or attract vermin. By the dawn of the 20th century, they had largely been replaced by purified petroleums, ranging from the fluid "white oil" (USP mineral oil from the drugstore), petroleum jelly (aka petrolatum, also from the drugstore), and paraffin wax ("canning wax" from the grocery store).

The petroleum products can be combined to make products of intermediate consistency, or dissolved in kerosene or mineral spirits for dip-or-spray application. (Incidentally, the first-generation MSDS for Starrett M-1 identified M-1 constituents as petrolatum and petroleum solvent. Later generation M-1 MSDSs / SDSs are less explicit, but I don't know if the product itself changed, or if the only change was to less-cat-out-of-the-bag wording.)

Beyond that, I'll add that a superior "wiping cloth" for wiping-down precison tools before putting them away can be made by saturating a chamois (US term, often called a "leather" or "wiping leather) by Europeans) with solution of 1 part paraffin to 10 parts petrolatum in mineral spirits. Saturate a foot-square piece of the chamois in the solution, wring it out enough to stop dripping, and keep it in a closed container when not in use. A one-pound-or-so "ointment jar" (such as a Eucerin skin-cream jar) is about ideal.

John
 
I will also go with Fluid Film I have been using it for more than 20 years. It is Lanolin oil, same stuff that sheep produce and they put in hand lotions. It works great on instruments and tools. You only spray it on a rag and wipe the tool down. No sticky residue and it works great. You may remember Lano-Lube? It is the same but in paste form and was the go do for protecting gage blocks in many shops. I just use the Fluid film as it is easier to apply.

Charles
 








 
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