Tree Boring Head - Bars, Accessories, & Functionality

I recently purchased a Tree Boring Head (after lusting for one for years)....and while I am thrilled to finally get one, it is missing the original boring bars and other accessories. It came with an MT3 arbor; I have already made a straight 3/4” arbor to use with my Tree 2UVR mill. I made the 3/8" - 24 NF flange bolt to attach the boring bars to the head. I measured the taper, & have made 3 of the tapered adapters for boring bars.

I have searched the net over, looked at a lot of pictures (mostly for sale), & have watched the 3 YT videos featuring the Tree Boring Head. The original parts list, lists multiple bars.....
- TB-3520
- TB-3520-1½ (Round/small tool holder?)
- TB-3520-3 (¼" square tool bar?)
- TB-3520-3A (Extension bar?)
I have also seen a flat adapter (taper adapter on one end) in some of the pictures, but don't see it listed on any of the part description that I have.

While I want to build my bars/accessories to retain all of the original functionality (boring/facing/outside turning), it may be smart/handy to adapt to some of the tooling that I already have (indexable carbide bars, etc.). I'd like to have all of the bases covered, while I'm working on building this stuff.

I obviously don't have a manual (if anyone has a copy, or knows where I can get one I'd appreciate it), and haven't seen anything other than a simple taper boring setup in the pictures/videos online.

Does the 3A bar slide/affix onto the the 3520-3 bar (for larger diameter boring/turning/facing)?

I don't mean to be dense; I guess I'm asking for wisdom/advice, in how it was to be originally configured...but also what would be handy/useful changes, since I'm the one building replacement bars.

Cutting the ¼" square holes (at 45°) in the bars might be a challenge....I don't have a broach, not even sure I have files small enough; but do have 2 metal shapers.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks-

Robert

I have and use the tree head often, but have not seen one missing the parts.
I have made and adapted my own bars that fit the locking taper, not a big deal.
The head, I have used on regular vertical mills, but find it more stable on a jig borer, and a heavier horizontal mill.
I will add, the bars that came with the head, are not as useful as the tools I have made, for example, instead of drilling a square hole, I cut slots and use set screws. The holders you make do not have to resemble the useless crap that came with the head. Excuse that, I find the junk that comes in the Wohlhaupter kit, not so great, I make my own there too.

One more, there are two versions of the Tree head, fine feed, and coarse feed.
Some feel the fine feed head is the best one, I prefer the coarse feed head, and letting the ring slip in my fingers for fine feed..just me looking to get things done.

ls2005019227 said:

Cutting the ¼" square holes (at 45°) in the bars might be a challenge....I don't have a broach, not even sure I have files small enough; but do have 2 metal shapers.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks-

Robert

Click to expand...

Any help? Buy Machine Tool Sleeves | Machining and Finishing | Reid Supply

Those sleeves would work.
I usually end up making a tool for the application, tools tend to hang out because of the unique construction of the head, so I tend to fabricate something as short as possible, and brazing a piece of carbide on it, instead of dinking around with 1/4" lathe tools.
Once a cutting tool is made, then the tool mount bevel can be cut in a mill using the Tree head, for other needed tools.

The head can cut bevels, cut a flat face, backface through a bored hole, cut oring and snap ring grooves, and more. It can do operations that would otherwise require a large lathe.

And by just a push of a button, an image of a Tree angle cutting head.

The knurled ring at the top of the head is held by hand, and the adjustable for angle slide automatically feeds outward.
Shown is the standard cutter bars.

That is a Moore jigbore shank, made by Criterion, adapting the head to the Moore machine spindle.

I appreciate the replies.

I remembered the square hole inserts; I believe Keith Fenner showed them when building a line boring bar. It would probably be difficult to go both directions with a common set screw at 45°, using them though. It might work, just to drill at the inscribed circle diameter (0.354", for a ¼" bit) with the set screw holding it-?

I think the picture answers one of my biggest questions, showing the set screw on the boss of the bar in the background. Most of the other online pictures don't show that, but was thinking that particular bar must attach onto the bar that you show mounted, for increased boring capacity/outside turning. Is there a flat on the underside of the mounted bar, to assist the set screw in preventing rotation?

While HSS would be better for tool pressure (in what appears to be a somewhat fragile setup), carbide would be better for SFM at the larger diameters. It might make sense to just build an adjustable adapter, to fit both bars, that would accept my round indexable carbide bars- Any thoughts??

Thanks!

The head is more robust then it appears, but running a vise into it with rapids would probably destroy it.
There is no flat milled on the mounted bar. The bar that is unmounted can be attached to the mounted bar for back facing through a hole, or ?
What I do is take a rectangular piece of steel, form the taper mount, then braze a carbide blank to it, and then grind it in my tool & cutter grinder. The included bars, I certainly could do without.

I use the Tree head often in combination with a Wohlhaupter, and standard heads, I do not use the exotic heads for straight boring, because they have little gears, lash, and related problems, I dont want to deal with.