What's new
What's new

Turret Design/Build for non-turret lathe

Jarrod

Aluminum
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Location
Toronto, ON
Have any of you designed or built your own turret for your non-turret type lathe? I have a small Standard Modern and think it would be a helpful addition for some repetitive work. Is this just being lazy? This would include actually building the turret and actuator as well.

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Used turret lathes are cheap to buy these days.

They are different from the ground up.

Running one is like driving with power steering.
 
Used turret lathes are cheap to buy these days.

They are different from the ground up.

Running one is like driving with power steering.

I'm seeing a lot of Wards, but also a fair number of very compact Hardinge. Might be more trouble than it's work to adapt a standard engine lathe...
 
You would be better served to buy a used unit and adapt it to your lathe. I had the occasion to repair a Hardinge unit a couple of months ago. There is a lot going on under the hood. Biggest issues are timing and locking after indexing. Simple units can be constructed where all is done like an indexing tool holder for the cross slide where its all manual. The production units have depth stops, automatic indexing and locking. For the unit to be of any value, it would have made with the precision of the lathe its going, including scraping the slides.

Tom
 
Even if you found a unit made by S-M for the model,it still likely wouldnt fit correctly,because the units are supplied with semifinished holes and faces for final finishing/boring on the machine..........You are far better finding a small Ward 2DS,or a Herbert in the smallest size............however despite bigger lathes selling for scrap,the tiddlers usually sell for big money....the smaller ,the more costly......Ive seen quite few converted to amateur CNC of a sorts.
 
Even if you found a unit made by S-M for the model,it still likely wouldnt fit correctly,because the units are supplied with semifinished holes and faces for final finishing/boring on the machine

Been done with Enco and similar add-on "hex" turrets all over the place. They expect to sit atop an adapter plate. If that's "too hard" to calculate and fit, simply make it adjustable.
 
Where is the power feed ? that drops out by itself when you hit the stop ?

Standing right beside it pulling the handles. Called an operator.

Big difference between an old style bog standard capstan / turret conversion accessory for a normal manual lathe and the pukka turret on the real thing. Whether Hardinge et al in baby sizes or production line devices, Ward et-al.

That said I do wonder how hard it would be to convert a turret attachment and cut off slide to simple constant speed power operation with appropriate switches activated by the stops. Lego robotics, with higher power motors, should be up for it if programming an Arduino or similar isn't in your skillset. Really its chuck operation, collets should be easy, and part collection that will be the main headaches. Ordinary lathes aren't made to collect piles of parts at one time. Naturally if you mis-align the bar feeder you will literally have head or otherwhere aches!

Clive
 
Standing right beside it pulling the handles. Called an operator.

Big difference between an old style bog standard capstan / turret conversion accessory for a normal manual lathe and the pukka turret on the real thing. Whether Hardinge et al in baby sizes or production line devices, Ward et-al.

That said I do wonder how hard it would be to convert a turret attachment and cut off slide to simple constant speed power operation with appropriate switches activated by the stops. Lego robotics, with higher power motors, should be up for it if programming an Arduino or similar isn't in your skillset. Really its chuck operation, collets should be easy, and part collection that will be the main headaches. Ordinary lathes aren't made to collect piles of parts at one time. Naturally if you mis-align the bar feeder you will literally have head or otherwhere aches!

Clive

Uhm...yeah.

Never ran a real one much have you ?
Feed changes at the move of one lever, spindle speeds too.

This subject of home made need to move to Home Page - Projects and Articles on Our Forum! | The Hobby-Machinist Forum
and you can put mach3 on it along with Rasberry Pi.
 
Standing right beside it pulling the handles. Called an operator.
Called a head-high and damned PROUD "operator" on a Warner & Swasey or Gisholt, thank you very much! Also one sore wore-out-tired and sweaty SOB by shift's end. DAMHIKT. Powered - both carriages - or no, lots of handles had to be danced across, and "in time with the beat" if one was to make the numbers expected, not rejects nor bustid tools.

But yes as to upgrading the middle/lightweights with some of the huge selection of goodies lying about these days. Air can do that, and has done, ditto juice, both long before electric servos and control logic became affordable.

The Enco hex, for example, already has provision for accessing the capstan-spoke operating mechanism shaft off the BACK side of the casting and the spokes lift-out so as to not beat a person into scrambled egg if the rig was being power-operated.

No need to build from a blank sheet. Adapt what is plentiful and already proven for the size-range of the "mothership" lathe.

Need more? Buy it ready-made. A Hardinge Conquest or the like, MIMIMUM, on-up to the latest and best multi-axis CNC. A Standard Modern has its limits.
 
Have any of you designed or built your own turret for your non-turret type lathe? I have a small Standard Modern and think it would be a helpful addition for some repetitive work. Is this just being lazy? This would include actually building the turret and actuator as well.
Thoughts?

What do you really need. You can fit an inexpensive enco-type tailstock turret to the tailstock to change between six tools there.

Then put a small toolpost turret there, and rig up a bed stop turret with a several stop rods. You can get about half the
function of a real turret lathe that way, in a 'lite' format.
 
What do you really need. You can fit an inexpensive enco-type tailstock turret to the tailstock to change between six tools there.

Then put a small toolpost turret there, and rig up a bed stop turret with a several stop rods. You can get about half the
function of a real turret lathe that way, in a 'lite' format.

Those silly toys that mount on a #2 MT tail and don't even necessarily have provision for a torque control rod? Sorry, NO, not really. You can gain the ability to hurt yerself is about all as can be taken for granted.

Get at least a Hardinge, Enco, Royal, Monarch - whomever - manual add-on "bed" turret or just stay to-home and change tools one at a time.
 
I agree with Rosen and thermite. I adapted a Hardinge turret to my SB heavy 10. When you need to make 50, 100, 500 of the same part with simple machining, the turret lathe is the way to go, particularly if you can't afford a swiss. They are productive but tiring to run. Have to keep focused on what you are doing, easy to let the mind drift and start mixing up the sequence. Tapping I do on a drill press with a tapping head, external threading with a die head. Tough to use a box tool though without power feed.

Feet and shoulders let me know at the end of the day.

Tom
 
I ......... Tough to use a box tool though without power feed.
.........
Tom

Depends on your endurance and tolerance for boredom.... and how long/deep the cut is. I have not done weeks of work with the turret, but I found THAT out soon enough.... leaning on the lever through a fair depth of cut at nearly full stroke.
 
Depends on your endurance and tolerance for boredom.... and how long/deep the cut is. I have not done weeks of work with the turret, but I found THAT out soon enough.... leaning on the lever through a fair depth of cut at nearly full stroke.

Most of the work Day job used them for was under 1/4" if not under 1/8" of stroke.

Barely a wrist-flick on the lone Hardinge, the many modified SB 9", and not a great deal more on a tie bar with shop-fabbed one-hole TS lever-ram.

The PROBLEM . even on those never-break-a-sweat Hardinge-sized motherships, is easily as bad as on the work-yer-arseoff W&S:

One must sort of train ganglia, then disconnect the higher brain in order to FUNCTION as an automaton, ELSE mess-up sequencing and slow down throughput, scrap parts, or both. That isn't "natural" for humans, so we long since invented "automatic" machines to do it better.

It was like me late mum being rated fastest teletype operator, her unit, War Two. HTF can "faster" be had with a machine mechanically held to but 50 baud, and all machines the same?

Simple enough. She could sit down, cold, immediately hit and HOLD a STEADY 50 baud for as much as 16 hours at a go. Same again, any money-making turret lathe, and NO it ain't any fun at all. Mum soon quit and went over to making RADAR sets, lest she go nuts!

:)

I'm not putting the Enco hex onto the 10EE for "production".

It's going on simply because the OEM one-hole #2 MT with too-slow handwheel feed is undersized and borderline USELESS.
 
It's going on simply because the OEM one-hole #2 MT with too-slow handwheel feed is undersized and borderline USELESS.[/QUOTE]

Your major maladjustment is you extend your personal situation to provide the answer to ANY question. A pos enco tail turret migh be
just the thing for him. I have half a mind tto mail him mine, as I'll never use it. Hardinge split bed with a near zero hours
bed turret, that is.
 
Cranking on a engine lathe tailstock is a PIA.

If you wanted to use a tailstock turret, why not
bodge on a cheap Bridgeport power feed to the crank ?
 
Cranking on a engine lathe tailstock is a PIA.

If you wanted to use a tailstock turret, why not
bodge on a cheap Bridgeport power feed to the crank ?

Because it is an order of MAGNITUDE cheaper and easier to convert most any "one hole TS" to a hand "ram lever" or capstan, as the bed-turrets have, and that works better for either than an electric drive nearly all the time.

Among other things, they are FAST and have excellent "feel".
 








 
Back
Top