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UV Disinfection Lamp to remove bacteria from Coolant?

kunalv

Plastic
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Hello guys,

I am designing a Tramp Oil Coalescer and Sump Cleaner for one of my clients to clean the coolant sumps in their machine shop.

I am wondering if a UV Lamp can be fitted on my Tramp Oil Coalescer to remove bacteria. Since the coalescer basically pulls liquid from only the surface of the machine sump, will that be enough in removing all of the bacteria? Where do these germs generally reside in the sump? On the surface with the tramp oil or at the bottom with all the debris? or throughout the liquid...

Thanks,
KV
 
It’s a good idea if you can pass the coolant in a thin film over the UV tube,
10/10 for that idea
Mark
 
Like Mark said, the coolant would have to flow very thin, but it also has to flow SLOW. UV doesn't kill bacteria instantly. If the coolant is somewhat opaque it isn't likely to work at all. Few (especially used) coolants are clear. Personally, I don't think its a viable solution. My opinion is worth even less than it costs, though.
 
It’s a good idea if you can pass the coolant in a thin film over the UV tube,
10/10 for that idea
Mark

Could you also comment on whether UV disinfecting the coolant that will be sucked from the top of the coolant sump(where the tramp oil is at) will be enough? Or does the entire sump need to be disinfected>?
 
I tend to agree with Gordon, but if you tried it, you need a UVC bulb.

Be careful, A friend was doing some weird growing using one and damaged his eyes, went to the hospital the whole gig for staring at one long enough to get the bulb into place.


IT is like staring at the sun only you cannot see the light.

I had thought of installing a tube UV fluorescent inside a plastic tube and then a coaxial tube just slightly larger over it to create the thin film required and putting it in line with the coolant pump. IF you made the inner tube longer than the outer you would not have to deal with sealing electrical connections

NEver tried it as an air is good enough for my purposes, but they do something like that for sewage treatment
 
I think the idea for a UV light is a good idea and worth a try. I have a 55 gallon fish tank with African clawed frogs in it that was getting pretty funky until I added a UV filter. The water flows through it quite rapidly so I can't say that it takes a good while to do the job. It certainly makes a big difference in my tank. The water cleared up and lost the funk in about two days. I realize that coolant is much more opaque, but perhaps the coolant could be aerosolized in an auxiliary tank with a UVC bulb in it. It wouldn't even need to be sealed. Just a compartment with an open bottom below the surface of the coolant tank to keep the aerosol from escaping and flying around. You may not even have to aerosolize it. If the coolant could be sprayed into the container it may run down the inside surfaces in a thin enough film it to do the job.
 
They make if sterilizer for well water. It is a very common item. The water flows through a pipe housing with the bulb inside. Safe and easy to install. I think the last one I had installed for a client cost $1,200-$1,500 for Labor and the unit.
 
Personally I do not like the idea. Seems like most things that break down if left in the weather break down from the UV exposure. Tires, paint, and plastic are all broken down. Milk that Larry mention is only exposed once. Cutting fluid that will be exposed on a continuous basis, I do not know what the long term effects will be. Will some of the breakdown products be poisonous or carcinogenic? Maybe neither but will it still retain whatever makes it a good coolant? Will every coolant have the same results?

Ah, what do I know I am still using cutting oil.
 
They make them for fish ponds just plug in a supply and return line hose. Should cost under $100 or so. The bulb is supposed to be replace every season as uv production falls but it is not actually burned out.
Bill D

Pressurized UV Pond Filter 2000 871980000072 | eBay

Get one where the bulb is single ended in slips into a quartz glass sleeve. Protects the bulb from thermal shock and makes changing it simpler.
 
What? You are designing and building something that you obviously know little about. Many companies that do know what they are doing already make this kind of equipment. You are not only dealing with both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, but molds, fungus and other nasties. The coolant tank of a machine is an incredibly dynamic ecosystem.
 
I tend to agree with Gordon, but if you tried it, you need a UVC bulb.

Be careful, A friend was doing some weird growing using one and damaged his eyes, went to the hospital the whole gig for staring at one long enough to get the bulb into place.


IT is like staring at the sun only you cannot see the light.

I had thought of installing a tube UV fluorescent inside a plastic tube and then a coaxial tube just slightly larger over it to create the thin film required and putting it in line with the coolant pump. IF you made the inner tube longer than the outer you would not have to deal with sealing electrical connections

NEver tried it as an air is good enough for my purposes, but they do something like that for sewage treatment

You must not use either a plastic tube nor glass tube. Both will attenuate the UV light. You must use a quartz tube.
 
You are not only dealing with both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, but molds, fungus and other nasties. The coolant tank of a machine is an incredibly dynamic ecosystem.

Does this mean that you could accidentally kill the friendlies and leave the dangerous thriving with no competition?
 
Personally I do not like the idea. Seems like most things that break down if left in the weather break down from the UV exposure. Tires, paint, and plastic are all broken down. Milk that Larry mention is only exposed once. Cutting fluid that will be exposed on a continuous basis, I do not know what the long term effects will be. Will some of the breakdown products be poisonous or carcinogenic? Maybe neither but will it still retain whatever makes it a good coolant? Will every coolant have the same results?

Ah, what do I know I am still using cutting oil.

You are not the only one still using cutting oil. I do as well on my big L&S to eliminate that crud that grows in coolant, but it is expensive to do. Cutting oil is also not without its issues though, as it is hydrophobic and the oil will sludge up over time. To solve that issue, I adapted a 7 kw deep fryer element to live in the oil sump. About once a year I bring the sump up to about 190C and boil off any accumulated water.
 
Bubbler air line in a coolant tank does much good in keeping coolant from getting rank. Just a 1/4" copper line with one end pinched off and 1/32" holes drilled about 6" apart, laying in the bottom of tank, fed with air from a regulator to keep it just gently bubbling, does the trick. We were able to triple the time before coolant change with water based Cincinnati brand coolants.

JH
 








 
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