Vibratory Deburr Machine Sludge

Racecar · Jan 18, 2019

I built a Vibratory Deburr machine from a 30 gallon plastic drum cut in half, and a 1/2 HP motor.
It actually works pretty good. I have 50 lbs of 3/4 dia abrasive cones, they jump and vibrate, and the parts tumble, so I'm happy with it.

I put 3-4 gallons of water in it to start, and some (probably too much) liquid laundry soap.
It smells great when it's running, just like fresh laundry. Over time, the liquid has changed from clear to white. It has run about 4 hours total and I emptied the drum today to make some changes

To my surprise there is about a 1/2 inch of fine white powder sludge on the bottom that is stuck together, and a lot of cones stuck in it.
It comes out with a putty knife, it's not hardened, it dissolves with water.

Is this normal with vibratory abrasive cones to produce sludge, or could this be from the laundry soap condensing and turning to glue.

Thanks, Racecar

adama · Jan 18, 2019

Yep, the whole lot eats its self, its why most people set them up with a dribble of liquid passing through them, draining into some kinda sump. Keeping that sludge flushed makes them cut faster and also extends the cone - abrasive life.

That much water will really absorb a lot of the impact energy slowing how fast the process works, normally all you want is to keep the contents wet, not submerged.

m-lud · Jan 18, 2019

Racecar said:
I built a Vibratory Deburr machine from a 30 gallon plastic drum cut in half, and a 1/2 HP motor.
It actually works pretty good. I have 50 lbs of 3/4 dia abrasive cones, they jump and vibrate, and the parts tumble, so I'm happy with it.

I put 3-4 gallons of water in it to start, and some (probably too much) liquid laundry soap.
It smells great when it's running, just like fresh laundry. Over time, the liquid has changed from clear to white. It has run about 4 hours total and I emptied the drum today to make some changes

To my surprise there is about a 1/2 inch of fine white powder sludge on the bottom that is stuck together, and a lot of cones stuck in it.
It comes out with a putty knife, it's not hardened, it dissolves with water.

Is this normal with vibratory abrasive cones to produce sludge, or could this be from the laundry soap condensing and turning to glue.

Thanks, Racecar

Most laundry soap has fillers added to it. Its added to make you think your getting more product.
If you want to add a detergent read the ingredients and get one that has no fillers. It seems like a dish soap would work better. You will still get some sludge.
Auto body workers add dish soap while wet sanding to help keep the sandpaper from clogging.

Racecar · Jan 18, 2019

OK, so I should use just the minimum amount of water to keep the stones wet. Then add a filter and pump to keep the water fresh.
That totally makes sense. This has been a fun project, with a big learning curve. I have a small water pump that I was going to use for coolant on my lathe. That may be just the right size.
Thanks for the explanation.

Racecar · Jan 18, 2019

mllud22 said:
Most laundry soap has fillers added to it. Its added to make you think your getting more product.
If you want to add a detergent read the ingredients and get one that has no fillers. It seems like a dish soap would work better. You will still get some sludge.

Laundry soap was my first guess, but it does get thick when it settles. I will try dish soap next time.

DDoug · Jan 18, 2019

Racecar said:
Laundry soap was my first guess, but it does get thick when it settles. I will try dish soap next time.

I like chainsaw bar oil, but others like "marvel Mystery Oil"..... :skep:

Why not just ....Gasp..."Buy" the proper chemicals ?

adama · Jan 18, 2019

yeah the proper stuff is realy not expensive it has a detergent, anti corrosion and anti foam in it, sure you probaly have to buy 20-25 liters, but that will last you a life time, on the vibratory tubs i was around, both about the size of yours we used less than a egg cup full for.

Filters possibly ideal, but just a sump the sludge can settle in works pretty dang good too and a pump thats off the bottom. You know you have the flow right when the part just come out clean and everything kinda stays wet.

m-lud · Jan 18, 2019

1 Gal Compound M Tumbling Media Additive 5854595 - MSC

This is a product made for the purpose. I have bought thr Sand Ease product designed for wet sanding paint and found that dawn dish soap works as well. Suggested by a bodyman. The 40 dollar gallon may be better. Or an expensive detergent?? Gallon may last a long time

As adama says if it has corrosion inhibitors and anti foam that's a good reason to buy it.

Edit. Is says mix 2% concentrate.

5 Gal Disc Finish Soap Compound Tumbling 9118589 - MSC

rickseeman · Jan 18, 2019

As the media decomposes it turns into the sludge you see in the bottom. This is normal.

Mtndew · Jan 18, 2019

rickseeman said:
As the media decomposes it turns into the sludge you see in the bottom. This is normal.

Especially if the media is plastic.
That stuff creates a shit ton of sludge.

Racecar · Jan 18, 2019

Mtndew said:
Especially if the media is plastic.
That stuff creates a shit ton of sludge.

Yes, it is plastic media. Digger, you are right "Gasp" to say buy the right chemicals. I like to try everything that is free else before I spend money.
Thanks to mllud22 for that link. Now I know what to look for.

plastikdreams · Jan 18, 2019

Mtndew said:
Especially if the media is plastic.
That stuff creates a shit ton of sludge.

FYI, a shit ton is equal to 538.4 lb...advp

Delw · Jan 18, 2019

put some drain holes in the bottom of the tank. stick a 5 gallon bucket under there to catch it. (hole size maybe 1/8" about 15-20 holes)
use a evap cooler pump to run the water from the bucket to a spray bar(make out of PVC, or grab one out of a swamp cooler) thats sprays in the machine.

using plastic media is great on alum HOWEVER if your doing parts with threads you lots of water and change your water frequently. if you dont your thread gage wont be working in the part anymore as the fine particles will fill the threads when it drys it will become like concrete just enough to make your go gage not go anymore ,the smaller the thread dia the worse it gets.

we can go about 6 hours of running before we have to change water in drain bucket( we do small threads in parts from 0-80s to 4-40s) if your not careful you can wipe out a ton of parts and spend a day getting the crap out of them.

ceramic media you wont have any issues but dont use that on alum parts. we use the proper soap(forget the name of it) works extreamly well no foam and parts are clean and dry

D.D.Machine · Jan 18, 2019

I tumble about 4k of 6061 parts a month in just water ,,, the only time I use any soap if for steel parts that like to rust ,,, then i use Wallmart brand hand dish soap ..

the trick is change the water a lot and your stone and parts well stay clean.

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Vibratory Deburr Machine Sludge

Racecar

Plastic

adama

Diamond

m-lud

Stainless

Racecar

Plastic

Racecar

Plastic

DDoug

Diamond

adama

Diamond

m-lud

Stainless

rickseeman

Cast Iron

Mtndew

Diamond

Racecar

Plastic

plastikdreams

Diamond

Delw

Stainless

D.D.Machine

Stainless

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