Walter's Great L1 Spindle Nose Wrench
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 42
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    31,941
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Walter's Great L1 Spindle Nose Wrench

    Got this today from Walter A. Looks right, fits right, and has the bearing pads where they need to be. I really like the long handle.

    John Oder
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dcp_1213.jpg  

  2. Likes 30yearoldjunk liked this post
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    1,302
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    28
    Likes (Received)
    32

    Default

    For your watch making lathe?

  4. Likes Hopefuldave liked this post
  5. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    21,168
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    16555
    Likes (Received)
    17212

    Default

    Any idea what sort of torque should be used on L spindle noses? .......... I was taught 'Nice and snug but don't go silly.'' ...... though I've seen quite a few battered wrenches over the years.

  6. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    31,941
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    L1 used on lots of 12/14/16" lathes. If you thought this was big, you should see the L2 and L3 wrenches.



    Any idea what sort of torque should be used on L spindle noses?
    I think what you learned Sami is just right.

    John Oder

  7. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    202
    Likes (Received)
    206

    Default

    Thanks for the nice post John. It should last awhile.

    As far as the tightening torque mine has always been like a spin on oil filter. Easy on and harder off. I guess the threads get a little too comfy together.

    I can make these in an L1 and an L2. For the other sizes I need a template or DXF file. We only stock 3/8" and 5/8" in the T1 and AR grades. I am almost out of the T1 but still use both AR-235 and AR-400 all the time. They both will do the trick. Since I use drops I sell small stuff like this at A36 prices or below.

    Thanks again,
    Walter A.

  8. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Victoria, Texas, USA
    Posts
    4,567
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3051
    Likes (Received)
    1242

    Default

    I need one of them for my L-00 Nut!

    Ken

  9. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    31,941
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    If anyone needs the L nose specs for making Walter a dxf cad drawing, PM me with your spindle nose size and email address.

    John Oder

  10. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    6,780
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1155
    Likes (Received)
    3794

    Default

    No offense but that looks a little clunky. My Colchester L1 wrench (I assume is original to the lathe) has a smaller profile in the 'spanner' area and a longer, cylindrical handle.

  11. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Valdez, Alaska
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    62
    Likes (Received)
    107

    Default

    Walter A

    How much does that L1 wrench weigh?
    Do you have the dimensions to make a L0 wrench?

    I need a wrench for my Reed Prentice that is a L1 and a buddy of mine needs one for his Lodge and Shipply that is a L0.

    The problem is shipping, we're both in Alaska.

    If you could PM me a quote with weights I think that we could do some business. I like big and clunky, it means I don't have to pull so hard.

    Thane

  12. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    202
    Likes (Received)
    206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    No offense but that looks a little clunky. My Colchester L1 wrench (I assume is original to the lathe) has a smaller profile in the 'spanner' area and a longer, cylindrical handle.
    Maybe it is but it's patterned after the original L2 I have for another of my LeBlond lathes but sized for the L1. the original is probably thinner but 5/8" is what I have so that's what I used.

    Walter A.

  13. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    detroit, mi
    Posts
    1,463
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    373
    Likes (Received)
    51

    Default Walter's wrench

    Walter, I think you got it just right. One the upside is the fact that it is big enough for an attacment point to be added so I could lift it up with a jib crane once I'm to weak to pick it up (sooner than I think probably).

    Nice job, Doug

  14. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    202
    Likes (Received)
    206

    Default

    A DXF file (full scale) is what I need for the L0 and L00. Lacking that a heavy paper pattern folded and mailed will work also as long as the paper is clean enough for us to plot some points on.

    I would also need the slot width to make sure 5/8" would fit. Maybe the 3/8" would be fine for the L00.

    All I have a machines with L1 & L2 nuts.

    The one shipped to John was 9# packed in cardboard. It shipped UPS to John for $11.00.

    The L1 wrench was $25.00 in material and $13.00 labor for a total of $38.00 plus mailing cost. L2 would be higher and L0/L00 would be less. The cutting and cleaning time is about the same but naturally the material is + or -.

    If you need an L1 or L2 send me a PM. I'll figure and post an L2 price here tomorrow or Friday. The other sizes will need to wait until I get a template.

    These prices are to PM members only.

    Walter A.

  15. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    202
    Likes (Received)
    206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by usmachine View Post
    Walter, I think you got it just right. One the upside is the fact that it is big enough for an attacment point to be added so I could lift it up with a jib crane once I'm to weak to pick it up (sooner than I think probably).

    Nice job, Doug
    Thanks Doug,

    You had better use Cobalt or Carbide to drill one if you have to.

    Walter A.

  16. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Bel Air, MD
    Posts
    882
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    10
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    If I can get a reply on the Reed Prentice I made an offer on; I'll need one for an L-1...

    Walter does nice work...I've bought a bunch of rings from him and they have all cleaned up perfectly....

    Andy Pullen

  17. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    31,941
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    See post #7 if you need EXACT info on your nut to make a dxf drawing for Walter.

    John Oder

  18. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Somerset, KY
    Posts
    328
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    136
    Likes (Received)
    113

    Default

    Walter,
    I'd like an L-O to fit my Cincinnati if you get the file for that size. I thought the L-O's came standard with a hammer and a chunk o' brass.
    Barron

  19. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hampton, Virginia
    Posts
    2,505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    202
    Likes (Received)
    206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barron View Post
    Walter,
    I'd like an L-O to fit my Cincinnati if you get the file for that size. I thought the L-O's came standard with a hammer and a chunk o' brass.
    Barron
    Barron (and others)

    I would be very happy to make additional wrenches for any of the other long taper sizes such as L00, L0, L3 but I do not have dimensions. I can make the L1 & L2 right now if needed.

    What I need:

    *Preferred is a DXF drawing emailed to me.
    *Next best is a clean paper template transferred from an original wrench with the thickness written on the paper.
    *I can live with the following dimensions:
    1 - Diameter of the nut measured across the center land (not the knurls)
    2 - Width of that center machined land.
    3 - Length, depth and width of the drive slot.
    4 - Number of drive slots on the nut.

    From that I can scale the L1 down or the L2 up. and determine which thickness is best. Once I get the dimensions, DXF or Template I will work out prices and post back here and the commerce.

    I have enough T1 to cut one more L1 then I will use AR235 or AR400. Both are tough and very resistant to wear.

    Walter A.

  20. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    31,941
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Here is all that info. Let me know if you can read it.

    http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v3...=LTypeNuts.jpg

    John Oder

  21. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Norfolk, UK
    Posts
    21,168
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    16555
    Likes (Received)
    17212

    Default

    John, click on full size and it's loud and clear, on this side of the pond

  22. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Houston, TX USA
    Posts
    31,941
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default

    Thanks for feed back Sami.

    John Oder


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •