Walter's Great L1 Spindle Nose Wrench - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Thanks John,

    Saved and printed it. Just have to do the scaling now. For the smaller wrenches I will have to use thinner stock. Does anyone know the thickness of the original L0 and L00 wrenches?

    Walter A

  2. #22
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    Does anyone know the thickness of the original L0 and L00 wrenches?
    Wrench "groove" width, dimension "M" is 1/2" on both. Would seem 3/8" stock would be just right.

    John Oder

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    My Clausing 5914 lathe has an L00 spindle. The nut is 4.875" OD and there are 7/16+" holes for a pin spanner, Armstrong no. 466. The wrench is 7/16" thick and has a 7/16" pin. So a flat hook spanner will not work on my lathe. The grooves on the nut are small and have sloping sides, just to give oily hands a purchase for turning the nut by hand when it is loose.

    Larry

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  5. #24
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    The L00 on my Cinci Traytop uses a spanner like that shown in the pictures. (Interesting that your Clausing uses a pin spanner instead!) I wound up making my own spanner from 1/4" mild steel plate, and it has been more than adequate, though I should qualify that I am an occasional user, not using it every day. I would say 3/8" would be plenty thick -- that's what I would have made it out of had I had any on hand.

  6. #25
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    The L-00 nut on my Sheldon lathe is 4-1/2" OD and has 3/8" wide slots about 3/32" deep. Yes, a 3/8" or even 1/2" thick wrench will work. Work up pricing and I'll buy one from you. Thanks, Ken S.

  7. #26
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    3/8" would be the best thickness for the L0 wrench to fit my 1949 LeBlond Regal 17. The LeBlond L0 nut is knurled on the outside, but with a smooth groove down the center that the wrench should fit into. The groove is about 7/16" wide. A 1/2" thick wrench wouldn't seat as well, and might damage the knurling.

    I've got a pivoting style single jaw wrench that was in the box of junk that came with the lathe. It works okay, but if you offer a better one for a reasonable price, I'll buy one.

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    Speaking of spanner wrenches, I came across this adjustable one by Facom (probably French) on eBay just now. I have never seen this particular tool before, but I maybe could have used it if I had it. Too much money (around $71 with s&h) for a just in case tool, though.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/Facom-Adjustable...QQcmdZViewItem

    Larry

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    Walter, I'll take a L-0 wrench for a Clausing-Colchester 13". I can send you my broken wrench. It's only the curved part plus about 2". The handle is broken off, but it will give you the dimensions. I cringed as I watched the guy I bought the lathe from bang on the stub with a hammer.
    If you're interested, PM me your address and I'll send it.

    Jeff

  10. #29
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    Hook spanners are easy to make. Hot forging is probably the simplest and the most elegant but a good hook spanner can be oxy-acetelene or plasma cut from plate, machined as a ring cut to a 150 degree arc and a hook and handle welded on, or any variant including water jat.

    Use mild steel. Ordinarily mild steel may be considered too soft for wrench duty but a spanner for a D1 series chuck ring has a low duty cycle. Mild steel it can be heat treated a bit to maybe 30 Rc on the surface. Finish the wrench, heat it red, quench endwise with a rapid stirring motion in ice cold water. It's not necessary to draw the temper but a while in a 400 degree kitchen oven would improve things metallurgical.

    For the record a D1 series ring needs only a sharp knock on the spanner to draw up the taper as tight as it needs to be. I use a 10" length of 3/4 x 1 1/2 flat bar for a spanner pursuader on my L-0 lathe chucks. Beating on a chuck spannder with lusky blows of a big hammer is abusive and illustrates to knowledgeable bystanders that the hammerer is either ignorant (curable) an idiot, (lamentable), or insensitive and ham handel (an incurable lifelong trait).

  11. #30
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    L1 Mr. Addy, not D1

    John Oder

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    Walter.....I would like one for a L0 if possible......Thank you very much....Dean

    http://www.neufellmachining.com

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    Default L00 wrench

    Walter,

    I'd like a wrench for my L00 Boxford.

    The nut is 4 5/8" diameter, 1" wide with 6 notches.
    The notches are full width of the nut, 1/2" across and 5/16" deep.

    Thicker material (thicker than the 3/8" I see mentioned in previous posts) might be best for mine and I'll happily pay extra.

    This will be a big improvement over the wood block and hammer I'm using now.

    Photo of spindle nut attached.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails l00boxford_nut_rear.jpg  

  14. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forrest Addy View Post
    Hot forging is probably the simplest
    Say what? I cut and clean the L1 wrench in 15 minutes. How the heck is Hot Forging the simplest method?

    Mild steel it can be heat treated a bit to maybe 30 Rc on the surface.
    I would have to see it. With 0.25 carbon and an initial Rockwell of B68 you would more than likely need to carburize first. Why not start with a better material and leave all the heat treating alone? The big wrenches won't fit in the kitchen oven anyway.

    Walter A.

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    FWIW, here's the business end of the L1 wrench that came with my Colchester. It is made from 5/8" thick steel. The rest is a solid round bar about 3 feet long.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dsc00237-2-.jpg  

  16. #35
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    I have some samples of the wrenches made and am now putting the costs together. When I do I'm re-starting the thread in the commerce section where it belongs.

    To everyone who contacted me I will email you with a price, weight and shipping cost. I have a couple of specials made like the thick L00 for Henry A's Boxford and the extended L00 for Ken. These are ready to go out once I give them prices.

    Here is a photo:


    Walter A

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    FWIW, here's the business end of the L1 wrench that came with my Colchester. It is made from 5/8" thick steel. The rest is a solid round bar about 3 feet long.
    Not to hijack the thread, but what's the timber - sorry lumber okay woodin stick in the pic?

  18. #37
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    Limy -

    It is the Hickory from this thread:

    http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...=glue+pressure

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    Walter makes a very good tool, everything you need nothing you don't at a great price, and quickly.
    Thanks Walter.

  20. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by D.Clark View Post
    Walter makes a very good tool, everything you need nothing you don't at a great price, and quickly.
    Thanks Walter.
    Thanks for the note.
    If anyone in interested the for sale thread is here.
    https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...panners-370450
    Update prices near the last post on page 2.
    Walter

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    I received my L2 spanner sent by Walter's daughter Barbara. Its a beautiful piece of work.
    I want to remove the chuck on my Pacemaker before moving it.
    The spanner wrench will make the job so much easier .and prevent the use of unethical tactics.
    5/8" plate. No flex in that handle

    I slathered some of that rust-oleum hammered paint and baked it at 190F for an hour. That is very durable paint when baked.on
    spanner2.jpg

    Its a wrench so it wont stay shiny but will hang on the wall behind the lathe.

    I just painted my new to me $300 D-675 Kurt vice. I think its about 25 years old but It still had some Cosmoline on it.

    spanner.jpg


    Thank You Walter and Barbara.



    A test photo
    spanner.jpg


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