geardoc
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2012
I have an Iseki tractor, it was brought into the United States by AGCO when they bought the White trade name. The tractor was an evaluation unit. Eventually they decided to import the tractor first as a White Farm Boss and then as their mainstream Massey Ferguson.
This one though, has an engine they decided to forgo. It has the 4FC1.
While moving some stuff in the shop, I had the temp shoot up on the temp gauge and before I could do anything, I had some steam. I killed it. I checked the oil, and it had water in it. A lot of water. I looked around the block and I can see a 3cm external crack or casting flaw. I might have seen it weep water, it may have been condensation
My experience with cast iron welding and repair is that eventually the repair shits the bed if the engine sees extensive use.
This thing will see hours upon hours. It is 58hp at the PTO. It is 4WD. It is about the size and weight of a Ford 6000 series tractor. It isn't just front wheel assist, it is true 4wd.
Is there any point in disassembling the tractor's sheetmetal, and then pulling the head to see if the head gasket is gone ? I have a spare head gasket.
Does anyone have any experience in using composite block repairs ? I spoke to a guy who used to heat them and weld or braze(Depending on block material). He said I ought to try some K&W Block and Head Repair. He said he'd seen the stuff under a comparator and if you follow the directions, it will seal up and he said the fiberous material coagulates and stops up the crack. He said he was actually recommending it. What he got me came from an industrial supply and is in a grey bottle, it is a little bigger than what comes in the green bottle sold at some auto supplies.
Has anyone tried one of the modern composites for block repair ? He said that this is basically a type of plastic material that under heat, pressure, and water will force itself into a crack and it builds up a matrix. He showed me a section of block that was cut out that had been repaired in a CAT C2.2 under his comparator and it appears he wasn't bs'ing. He isn't a salesman for the company.
I'm wondering if I should just take off the gear drive from this industrial engine that's in it, swap it in place of a timing belt driven engine, and do that.
Pouring a liquid in and trying it is just a waste of the $60 in liquid and I can use some Rotella I've drained out of other engines. If it works, I don't have to do an engine change. If it doesn't work, well then, I've got to do the gear drive change and the engine swap.
My questions boil down to this:
1. Is there any point in using a composite repair material ? This is a liquid that is added to the water, it heats up and seeps through the crack. You have to perform an oil change, but if it seals it, it seals it.
2. Before I use that composite repair, should I pull the head and if the head gasket is also gone, replace it as well ?
3. For total time invested, am I better off swapping in another engine ? Here is minimum what must be done: I have an engine to go in, but I will need to test to see which one is best(I have a couple), then change out the gear drive to get rid of the timing belt on the engine, and do the swap. The gear change is enough to make you cry. I've done it on a C240 which is similar, and it made me want to jump off a building. I have my FEL off it. To pull the head, requires the sheetmetal be removed, so I'd be into that if it comes to changing engines.
This one though, has an engine they decided to forgo. It has the 4FC1.
While moving some stuff in the shop, I had the temp shoot up on the temp gauge and before I could do anything, I had some steam. I killed it. I checked the oil, and it had water in it. A lot of water. I looked around the block and I can see a 3cm external crack or casting flaw. I might have seen it weep water, it may have been condensation
My experience with cast iron welding and repair is that eventually the repair shits the bed if the engine sees extensive use.
This thing will see hours upon hours. It is 58hp at the PTO. It is 4WD. It is about the size and weight of a Ford 6000 series tractor. It isn't just front wheel assist, it is true 4wd.
Is there any point in disassembling the tractor's sheetmetal, and then pulling the head to see if the head gasket is gone ? I have a spare head gasket.
Does anyone have any experience in using composite block repairs ? I spoke to a guy who used to heat them and weld or braze(Depending on block material). He said I ought to try some K&W Block and Head Repair. He said he'd seen the stuff under a comparator and if you follow the directions, it will seal up and he said the fiberous material coagulates and stops up the crack. He said he was actually recommending it. What he got me came from an industrial supply and is in a grey bottle, it is a little bigger than what comes in the green bottle sold at some auto supplies.
Has anyone tried one of the modern composites for block repair ? He said that this is basically a type of plastic material that under heat, pressure, and water will force itself into a crack and it builds up a matrix. He showed me a section of block that was cut out that had been repaired in a CAT C2.2 under his comparator and it appears he wasn't bs'ing. He isn't a salesman for the company.
I'm wondering if I should just take off the gear drive from this industrial engine that's in it, swap it in place of a timing belt driven engine, and do that.
Pouring a liquid in and trying it is just a waste of the $60 in liquid and I can use some Rotella I've drained out of other engines. If it works, I don't have to do an engine change. If it doesn't work, well then, I've got to do the gear drive change and the engine swap.
My questions boil down to this:
1. Is there any point in using a composite repair material ? This is a liquid that is added to the water, it heats up and seeps through the crack. You have to perform an oil change, but if it seals it, it seals it.
2. Before I use that composite repair, should I pull the head and if the head gasket is also gone, replace it as well ?
3. For total time invested, am I better off swapping in another engine ? Here is minimum what must be done: I have an engine to go in, but I will need to test to see which one is best(I have a couple), then change out the gear drive to get rid of the timing belt on the engine, and do the swap. The gear change is enough to make you cry. I've done it on a C240 which is similar, and it made me want to jump off a building. I have my FEL off it. To pull the head, requires the sheetmetal be removed, so I'd be into that if it comes to changing engines.