What the BEST Choice of Tool for this Job? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike44 View Post
    I had to transport 5 pieces of 4" PVC pipe for a well. These are 20'-0" lengths. I tied a loop over the mirror bracket and a another loop on the back of the pickup box where the hole for a ladder rack would be. I slid the pipe in the rope loops and connected them with 1" C-clamps. Then tied the pipe up tight to the mirror bracket and tight to the pickup box. I traveled about 90 miles with this load without a problem.
    If you only have a car this idea may not be feasible.
    yes sir done this at a point in my life
    I had to transport 3 20' drill sticks one time to fab a deer feeder and laided the pipe on the ground, drove over it and tried a portion to the front bumper and the other portion to the back of the bumper and drove 25 miles to home...worked out great under the carriage of the truck
    paul

  2. #22
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    Now just to re-iterate when I go to the Metal Steel Yards or buy from the Metal Supermarket stores they make the first and sometimes the second cut free
    Its at the salvage yard where I pay by the pound that charge a cut fee
    I need to contact them Monday and find out what they say before I have to figure out what my next option would be...
    Thanks for all the ideas
    Paul

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill D View Post
    No yard here will allow customer use of saw or grinder. They do not want to lose the cutting fee.
    Bill D
    Ding Ding Ding
    We Have a Winner...
    Yard said they will not allow any electrical power tools unless I supply my own source of electricity...
    Owner wants all cut fees to justify the upkeep of his crew...
    Hand tools are allowed which would include the manual or battery
    So now I have to decide on tool or gather up the small generator and load up and take porta band...
    But I had forgotten about the porta band until someone had mentioned it...I do like the porta band idea though...Just have to decide if I'm going to get generator out of storage or invest in tool for the Makita batteries...
    Thanks to All which helped
    Paul

  4. #24
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    How about an inverter, easier than dragging out the genny.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dalmatiangirl61 View Post
    How about an inverter, easier than dragging out the genny.
    Great idea
    I forgot my truck has a converter built into it...Thanks for the tip
    Paul

  6. #26
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    Cordless bandsaw. Hands down winner.

  7. #27
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    Cordless Sawzall will work, but you need a few extras.

    Spare battery(s)

    Metal cutting blades in various lengths and tooth counts

    Cutting lubricant (I suggest cutting wax for field use)

    I own a corded Milwaukee Super Sawzall but I've used my 18v Ryobi for all sorts of things, from cutting tree limbs and roots to various wood and metal. The harder you work the saw the quicker the battery will drain. For blades, use the same rules for tooth count as with a hand hacksaw. The bigger the piece the coarser the tooth count.

    A cordless will usually need to be run faster, which is tough on blades so a good lube is a must. The lube also reduces power consumption somewhat.

    What you seek is very doable if you go prepared.

    PS: You should also bring a small (12" or so) square and a marking pen. You may also need alcohol wipes if the stock is oily/greasy so the marker will work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Texasbowhunter View Post
    Great idea
    I forgot my truck has a converter built into it...Thanks for the tip
    Paul
    Make sure the converter is rated for the tool's peak voltage before using it.


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