What are cheap method to turn the threads off a bolt? - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjs44032 View Post
    You mean you wouldn't use your centerless grinder for that job??? I mean the small one not the big one.

    Best Regards,
    Bob
    You've been talking to my wife again, eh?

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  3. #42
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    "Machine it"

    Plunge grind it. Takes seconds, finish/accuracy good. I do it every day.

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    Those plastic press on knobs are the handiest thing for creating custom thumb screws.They will handle all the torque that any normal human can apply.MM Carr sells them in metric and imperial.
    The plastic center post deforms into the hex making a positive drive with the outer recess pressing on the od of the bolt head.
    Just use any vice to press.

    I have to make all kinds of various thumb screws where idiots use pliers/vice grips and destroy the originals(doesn't matter plastic or steel).

    Of course they have to listen a lecture on why they are called thumb screws instead of vice grip screws before they can have them.

  5. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim rozen View Post
    That's cheating! Nobody and I mean nobody has a turret lathe just sitting in their
    basement....

    Oh. Wait.

    Never mind.
    I've got a bed turret for my SB 10K.

  6. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    im pretty dumb,but why would you buy a bolt and then turn the threads off?.............and second ,I cant believe anyone would be silly enough to buy this.......maybe its an investor driven thing like chocolate soft drink and pet rocks.
    It is probably a tool sold to non-machinists. Not everyone can make their own.

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  8. #46
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    My silly bolt is not sold to machinists. It is an alternative to the factory part that's machined from 3/4" steel and is $64. My part retails for under $10... would be less but I have 3 price levels to factor in.

    Using an insert with small radius helped tremendously.

    screw_turning.jpg

    The top holder is what I use. Below left is a split holder I made but it is non-concentric. And I use a thread chasing nut to clean the threads when I'm done with the part. The four bolts shown are the 1st attempt ... middle two are figuring out how much cut I wanted for 1st pass (in) and the 2nd pass (out). They got ugly because I needed to make more passes to get the diameter down so it would fit in the fixture.

    I did a video, too, so the peanut gallery can have more fodder. Sorry, I forgot to turn off the music; I can hear it just right with the ear protection on. Then I only hear the machine when things aren't going smoothly.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=17f...oDxl8GAeUIZZOk

    The video is as I engage the power feed for the "2nd" cut. 1st cut takes about 0.030" off and 2nd cut another 0.020".


    The hollow end mill is a fantastic idea. Those don't seem very common, but an annular cutter might work magic. For $20, it's worth a try. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B2TCJDY

    Thanks for the positive suggestions. As for the stone throwers - well I tend to spend my time in as positive places as possible. You probably won't need to worry yourselves over this amateur again.

    Thanks,
    Chris

  9. #47
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    I do something similar and have found that brand of screw makes a huge difference in finish. I settled on Camcar. YMMV.

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    Good to mark your holder and so the best running position to your chuck might be returned to that same position every time you run the job. A small flat at a place in the insert radius perhaps .010 / .015 going down the clearance flat to the part OD side may improve the finish.

    Yes you would grind the with a wet diamond wheel that could be mounted on a bench grinder with a simple fixed table set at perhaps 10* clearance.

  12. #49
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    I don't know the OPs application but this looks exactly like the alternator removal tool for my 1975 BMW R60/6 motorcycle. The alternator is attached via a threaded bolt onto the tapered end of the crankshaft. There is a threaded hole in the armature that this type of bolt goes into and the threadless part is smaller than the minor diameter of the mounting screw. Works real nice.

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    I would significantly increase the speed and use flood coolant.

    Tom

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    your finish would be much better if you remade your bushing alot better . your biggest problem with finish is because your bushings/ fixture dont hold very well. cut them smooth and too size and correctly and your finish will improve.
    rigidity is needed to make nice smoother parts. other wise they bounce around like a rag doll

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    To the OP,

    You may find this video helpful. The threaded spit collet may be exactly what you need. Naturally, you can modify it to feed the screw from the back.

    YouTube

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  19. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by neilho View Post
    I do something similar and have found that brand of screw makes a huge difference in finish. I settled on Camcar. YMMV.
    THANKS! That's great knowledge. We have been "just buying them from McMaster" and McM doesn't sell Camcar.

    Quote Originally Posted by Delw View Post
    your finish would be much better if you remade your bushing alot better . your biggest problem with finish is because your bushings/ fixture dont hold very well. cut them smooth and too size and correctly and your finish will improve.
    rigidity is needed to make nice smoother parts. other wise they bounce around like a rag doll
    Yes. I ended up slitting my holder and the results are great.

    Final Solution:

    The hollow endmill. Under $20 from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2TCJDY

    I needed to slit the holder because the endmill is right handed cut. The results are fantastic; I really appreciate y'all's advice about the hollow endmills, that was something I didn't know about.

    Thanks,
    Chris
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hollow_endmill_2.jpg   hollow_endmill_1.jpg  

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