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What is a good lathe that does imperial and metric? Toolroom Lathe Sized

mitchapalooza88

Plastic
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
I currently have a Southbend Heavy 10 and I know I can get some metric gearing for it but I have some experience on a Clausing-Metosa C1440S and I really like the setup of this machine. Its just too big.

What are some good options for a nice an Imperial/Metric lathe that's about the size and maybe cost of a South Bend?

Thanks dudes

Also this is for home use.
 
I currently have a Southbend Heavy 10 and I know I can get some metric gearing for it but I have some experience on a Clausing-Metosa C1440S and I really like the setup of this machine. Its just too big.

What are some good options for a nice an Imperial/Metric lathe that's about the size and maybe cost of a South Bend?

Thanks dudes

Also this is for home use.

Hardinge HLV-H EM, but you're not going to like the price.
 
Harrison m300 13x40 metric+english with no gear changes. New ones are made in China not England. You do have to swap gears for moduale or some other kind I forgot. Those two gears are often lost.
Some are native English threading others are native metric.
Bill D.
 
Graziano SAG12 Metric and inch treading without changing any gears

Peter

We have a SAG17 (and a TL-1, long story) which is quite nice but it is a bit low to the ground. I suspect Italian dudes of the postwar period were somewhat petite by current standards. Come to think of it, I believe our Victor (a Hardinge copy, which for some reason is on riser blocks and suitable for 6' or taller staff), can do metric and inch as well.
 
Monarch 10EE with an IM gearbox and dual IM dials. While you're at it, make sure it has a 30" bed.

LOL! And greater swing .. but mine is branded "Cazeneuve"..

Seriously, UK, Nederlands, Belgium, France, Italy, Korea, Japan, and Germany ALL made one or more right-decent manual lathes with Inch/metric built-in.

Inch goods had been common in pre WWII Europe, the war brought more-yet in with occupation forces and their eventual surplus to Europe, Korea, Japan as well.

Europe for many decades had far the greater need to be able to work with both than the US does, even yet today.

For all the penetration of metric goods in our domestic market, many are "disposable", never see a repair.

For the more durable, we have far more spare parts and threaded goods "ready made" in both systems than was common in earlier eras.

My greatest need for metric has been automotive-related for nearly sixty years. Italian, Japanese, or German cars first, then US and UK-made vehicles as well.

Whatever I needed has always been a parts-bin item. No need to make one at all, either system.

"Thread restorer" files, both races, many pitches, were good enough, ELSE buy new.

Whom DOES need wide-range single-point threading?

Those who get involved with firearms, any age, or elderly 2-wheelers.

Both US and UK bikes and one or more fasteners on nearly ALL firearms - have used some of the rarest of fasteners out there, either system. Even so, if one can find a tap or die, "go for it".

If nothing else, the SIZE is usually right, so a PITA as to measuring threads accurately and well can usually be side-stepped for simpler tight/loose, go/no-go.
 
Weiler makes very nice toolroom lathes,
Decent. No QUESTION a serious step-up from a SB-anything! But what is NOT?

No need of a "toolroom" label to gain serious improvement. More SPACE, mostly.
comparable to the Monarch 10EE

Well.. they both use alloys of Iron in their construction.

But that's about as "comparable" as yer gonna get. One of the larger Schaublins would be better for light work?

A Hendey T&G about the same work-envelope as a SB 9, but waaay heavier and also physically larger. Same again Rivett 10XX, Smart & Brown.

Every one of those rare, MORE rare yet in I/M, and likely to be a major rebuild project, same as a 10EE.

14 X 30, 14 X 40, and there are dozens of "decent" I/M lathes, some still in brand new production. Never mind PRC. I mean South Korea or Taiwan. Doesn't sound like 3-shifts a day work, so a bit of "tuning" and even a "Tiawanese generic" can hold tolerances well-enough, long enough to match or beat a SB.

Size is an artificial barrier for many folks. Need of BOTH inch and metric is ALSO somewhat artificial if/as/when single-pointing threads isn't even a frequent need and taps and dies exist.

I have it (HBX-360-BC). I'd rather buy a tap or die I didn't already have. Then I DO have it.

Time is too precious to do stuff you need not do "just because you can".

Money is too precious to buy a capability "just because you MIGHT"

Go that route, may as well go CNC.
 
The OP narrowed the field way down, with a 14X40 machine being too big, and the cost about that of a heavy 10, meaning $900 from HGR-or $3000 with a paint job on CL.
The best match size and power wise would be Hardinge, with the I\M gear box, dials, often doubles the price, and is available.....multiple times the cost of the SB.
I was faced with this problem in my commercial shop, the main problem being the time it takes to install the change gears, and then return the machine back to inch threading, took nearly an hour on one of my lathes!
I went with the Monarch ee I/M, at the time 2003, they were the best buy because very few could work on them, they sort of had a curse because of that.
The other choice Hardinge HLVH EM, back then a machine with minimum bed wear cost well over 20k, the Monarch closer to 10k.
Those two machines switch back and forth I\M nearly instantly, but you pay for it right up front.
 
The OP narrowed the field way down, with a 14X40 machine being too big, and the cost about that of a heavy 10, meaning $900 from HGR-or $3000 with a paint job on CL.
The best match size and power wise would be Hardinge, with the I\M gear box, dials, often doubles the price, and is available.....multiple times the cost of the SB.
I was faced with this problem in my commercial shop, the main problem being the time it takes to install the change gears, and then return the machine back to inch threading, took nearly an hour on one of my lathes!
I went with the Monarch ee I/M, at the time 2003, they were the best buy because very few could work on them, they sort of had a curse because of that.
The other choice Hardinge HLVH EM, back then a machine with minimum bed wear cost well over 20k, the Monarch closer to 10k.
Those two machines switch back and forth I\M nearly instantly, but you pay for it right up front.

I agree
If you do both metric and inch threading on a regular base you must buy a machine that can do that without changing gears
Most lathes do not have that option Eighter European Asian or US made Weiler for sure does not have that option
The Graziano SAG 12 or 12S can do that At least for the most commen threads Even DP and Modul wormwheels
Any lathe can do inch and metric threading with a gearchange Even if it is not shown on the treading dial you could calculate it

Peter
 
I currently have a Southbend Heavy 10 and I know I can get some metric gearing for it but I have some experience on a Clausing-Metosa C1440S and I really like the setup of this machine. Its just too big.

What are some good options for a nice an Imperial/Metric lathe that's about the size and maybe cost of a South Bend?

I think your parameter of "about the ... cost of a South Bend" make it impossible to fill. There are such lathes out there in the used market, but they're going to cost more than a South Bend, which was a relatively lower-end-of-market machine.

But in a "size about that of a South Bend..." My choice in that size of lathe would be a Caz HBX-360:

Cazeneuve HBX360 Lathe

I have used a HB-575 at the local college when I'm in their shop, and a HBX-360 in another gunsmith's shop, and the Caz machines are excellent at being able to cut metric or imperial pitches and feeds with just the twist of a knob - no gear changes are required. They're also a pretty high quality machine.

If I (personally, me) could find a HBX-360 nearby, I'd be on it like flies on a cowpie.
 
Mitch,

Check out Gov. auctions of Standard Moderns. I bought one several years ago, a 1333, this way and I wouldn't part with it at any price. The bonus is that it is a domestic product and all parts are empirically dimensioned . The U.S. military, under contract, buys them in large quantity's and sells them well before they are wore out.

Good luck Sir,

Bob....not the cat.
 
The OP narrowed the field way down, with a 14X40 machine being too big, and the cost about that of a heavy 10, meaning $900 from HGR-or $3000 with a paint job on CL.
The best match size and power wise would be Hardinge, with the I\M gear box, dials, often doubles the price, and is available.....multiple times the cost of the SB.
I was faced with this problem in my commercial shop, the main problem being the time it takes to install the change gears, and then return the machine back to inch threading, took nearly an hour on one of my lathes!
I went with the Monarch ee I/M, at the time 2003, they were the best buy because very few could work on them, they sort of had a curse because of that.
The other choice Hardinge HLVH EM, back then a machine with minimum bed wear cost well over 20k, the Monarch closer to 10k.
Those two machines switch back and forth I\M nearly instantly, but you pay for it right up front.

This is pretty spot on. And I can expand the price range a little, I definitely had in mind a higher end South Bend at that $3k mark. I am comfortable with the $3k-$8k range.

It's more I just want to see what's out there for this capability for the smaller machines. Then I can take my time and shop for one that fits my budget and needs.

Even as a home shop guy, I am switching back and forth a lot. I want spend my time machining and not changing gears and such. That was one reason I opted to wait some more and get the Series 1 Bridgeport vs the Belt Change Head (ignoring VFD here).
 








 
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