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What Insert to use for Partial Radius Groove ?

RocknRonF

Plastic
Joined
Aug 17, 2018
Hi Guys, Beginner here. I have to cut this .040-.041"Radius Groove in a part, .056" deep into the part. What Size Full Nose Radius Insert do I need to accomplish this? I assume I use a standard .047" Full Nose Radius insert and by going only .056" deep, should leave me with the .040-.041" Radius but I'm not sure. There must be a formula for this. Any suggestions? This will be done on a manual lathe.
Groove.jpg
 
The tolerance for the groove radius is a bit precious. You will be at the mercy of the insert manufacturer, and I bet they will not guarantee +/-.0005" on the radius.

You would be less sensitive to tool radius if you interpolated with a .031" or even smaller radius insert. Maybe even a 331 V insert instead of a grooving insert. The 331 should have a .016" radius, and may have a sufficiently acute angle to make your groove.

Regards.

Mike
 
The tolerance for the groove radius is a bit precious. You will be at the mercy of the insert manufacturer, and I bet they will not guarantee +/-.0005" on the radius.

You would be less sensitive to tool radius if you interpolated with a .031" or even smaller radius insert. Maybe even a 331 V insert instead of a grooving insert. The 331 should have a .016" radius, and may have a sufficiently acute angle to make your groove.

Regards.

Mike

Whoops, never mind on interpolating the groove, I just saw "manual lathe". Good luck :o.

Regards.

Mike
 
...I assume I use a standard .047" Full Nose Radius insert and by going only .056" deep, should leave me with the .040-.041" Radius but I'm not sure.
If your tool is .047" rad, the groove is going to be .047" rad no matter how deep you cut it.

The width is not called out- as mentioned previously, you need a .040"/.041" radius grooving tool, plunge .056" deep. The width of the groove will be the same as the grooving tool (.080"/.082"), since the depth is greater than the radius.
 
If your tool is .047" rad, the groove is going to be .047" rad no matter how deep you cut it.

The width is not called out- as mentioned previously, you need a .040"/.041" radius grooving tool, plunge .056" deep. The width of the groove will be the same as the grooving tool (.080"/.082"), since the depth is greater than the radius.

Oops, you are correct! The drawing makes it look like the groove depth is well short of the radius, but the numbers tell a different story.

Regards.

Mike
 
In looking at this drawing, I see what others have pointed out: a 0.056 depth for a 0.04005 radius. If so, you need a flat-sided tool (like a parting tool) that is 0.082" wide, and has the 0.041 radius at the end. This will result in a groove with straight sides for 0.0155", with the bottom radiused.

I'm skeptical that this is what was intended. Could be. But the drawing has a little ripple in the dimensioning line, so could the 0.056 dimension be the edge radius/chamfer dimension? Then, the depth for the groove could be 0.041. Or anything.

Point is, I'd ask the customer to clarify this before buying the wrong tool for the job they need.
 
EDIT for correct link

This isn't a job for an insert in a manual lathe. You need to make a tool that has the exact radius you need....

The OP doesn't mention material, so let's assume 6061

I'd grind one of these M2 drill blanks to a full round end. McMaster-Carr Then set up in the surface grinder to grind 1/2 the diameter away- looks like spade drill at this point. Hand grind in relief. Feed it .055 depth (.110 on the dial).

The last .005 would be fed with a 50 RPM or less spindle speed to minimize chatter- lots of heavy oil. Polish the final .001 out with oiled emery @600+ RPM.
 
I doubt the ability of a manual lathe with the best in the world, well seasoned machinist to make this part to print without an enormous amount of time and effort.
I will second that with that I see it hard to do on a cnc.

First lets work with that you can grind this radius into a a tool with a swing on a T/C.
If there is any top rake the cut radius won't be right due to height vs dia. and the changing tool contact from up/down centerline.
One could go zero but there is that 4 RMS. Even with a elliptical tool end (to comp for as ground verses actual cut) holding that is going to be a bitch in a plunge.

Maybe a overly specked part but if matching the print is needed ......
With a rad this tight and the finish spec very nice inspection equipment enters the equation.
Opposite side of that is can the customer check it.
Bob
 








 
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